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  #826 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2013, 07:44 AM
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Mike, I blow out spot welds like that all the time and the tiny bit of fusing at the edges easily prys apart with a screw driver or separating blade.

The hole is as small as the cut line. Start in the center of the spot and then follow the outline of the weld to release the two panels. I cup my free hand around the tip to begin with because the sparks fly out to the sides until it goes thru...

Um, yeah, wear a welding glove on the free hand...

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  #827 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2013, 07:59 AM
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That steel may be "Boron" an UHSS that will eat up spot weld drills. There is a special spot weld drill for it that goes for about $65 each. I know nothing what so ever about a plasma so I don't know what they can do.

Brian
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  #828 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2013, 08:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
That was my thought too that the edges of the hole would be welded together a little and thats ok because once the hole is started It'll drill out the rest fairly ez...I do have the drill doctor because I too am frugle (my new word) I start with an 1/8" bit then use a 5/16 but I cant get the 1/8" bits to do anything even the expensive ones but I think if I get a hole startedwith the plasma cutter I can drill out the rest with the 5/16 bit without to much trouble....How big of a hole will that thing make?
Bingo! That might work! It probably would blow a 3/32 hole which would be a great pilot hole.

Got to go now but give me a few hours! i will try it!

John
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  #829 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2013, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Mike, I blow out spot welds like that all the time and the tiny bit of fusing at the edges easily prys apart with a screw driver or separating blade.

The hole is as small as the cut line. Start in the center of the spot and then follow the outline of the weld to release the two panels. I cup my free hand around the tip to begin with because the sparks fly out to the sides until it goes thru...

Um, yeah, wear a welding glove on the free hand...
Thats fantastic ,now I can get a plasma cutter with a clear consience I NEED one.I'll bet its a whole lot faster too.Thanks to you guys I'm slowly joining the 21st century..
BTW ,What the heck is a "welding glove" your talking about? do they come in pairs?
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  #830 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2013, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Thats fantastic ,now I can get a plasma cutter with a clear consience I NEED one.I'll bet its a whole lot faster too.Thanks to you guys I'm slowly joining the 21st century..
BTW ,What the heck is a "welding glove" your talking about? do they come in pairs?
I did not see TMP's answer before I left this morning. Looks like he has been there, done that.

If you needed to save the lower panel, you could just blow a small pilot hole, but if you are removing the part from a donor car you could cut out the weld itself but it will leave a hole in both panels of course.

The first time I ever saw a Plasma Cutter I had bought a 50 ford vicky that someone had mangled by cutting the lower quarters off with a cole chisel. A fellow came by the house one day and I was telling him I had to cut the quarter off a couple of inches above the mangled chisel line and he told me to let him cut it with his plasma cutter. I had never heard of a plasma cutter... About 1990

He took my 60 inch upholsterers yard stick and clamped it with a couple of pairs of vice grips. It took 40 seconds to cut a straight line from front to back and EVERY BIT OF DISTORTION WAS INSTANTLY GONE! I had a perfectly straight distortion free panel to weld back to. I had wanted one ever since.

They really are a neat tool.

John
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  #831 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2013, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I did not see TMP's answer before I left this morning. Looks like he has been there, done that.

If you needed to save the lower panel, you could just blow a small pilot hole, but if you are removing the part from a donor car you could cut out the weld itself but it will leave a hole in both panels of course.

The first time I ever saw a Plasma Cutter I had bought a 50 ford vicky that someone had mangled by cutting the lower quarters off with a cole chisel. A fellow came by the house one day and I was telling him I had to cut the quarter off a couple of inches above the mangled chisel line and he told me to let him cut it with his plasma cutter. I had never heard of a plasma cutter... About 1990

He took my 60 inch upholsterers yard stick and clamped it with a couple of pairs of vice grips. It took 40 seconds to cut a straight line from front to back and EVERY BIT OF DISTORTION WAS INSTANTLY GONE! I had a perfectly straight distortion free panel to weld back to. I had wanted one ever since.

They really are a neat tool.

John
I only use the plasma to blow holes where I don't intend to save the back panel to weld to. I have repaired holes with a plug weld vise grip as a backer and filled in the hole that way too.

A plasma cutter in 1990 was a 4-5 thousand dollar tool, very expensive. Clamping a straight edge to cut against is like having a computer guided laser cut the metal...

I have a Hobart that I paid $900 for several years ago. There are cheap ones out there from China but they run on an inverter rather than a transformer and have to build resistance for a couple seconds before they fire. Most also don't have the cool down cycle of air after the cut to extend the life of the tips. I don't recommend those. Spend the money up front for a good one and you won't regret it later...
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  #832 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2013, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
I only use the plasma to blow holes where I don't intend to save the back panel to weld to. I have repaired holes with a plug weld vise grip as a backer and filled in the hole that way too.

A plasma cutter in 1990 was a 4-5 thousand dollar tool, very expensive. Clamping a straight edge to cut against is like having a computer guided laser cut the metal...

I have a Hobart that I paid $900 for several years ago. There are cheap ones out there from China but they run on an inverter rather than a transformer and have to build resistance for a couple seconds before they fire. Most also don't have the cool down cycle of air after the cut to extend the life of the tips. I don't recommend those. Spend the money up front for a good one and you won't regret it later...
If the Hobart plasma is as good as their MIG welder you can't go wrong. My Hobart welder has been great for 20 years.

Mine is indeed a China built inverter. It is a Lotus. It has never had a delay that I had noticed and it is 50 amp, rated to cut 1/2 stock and sever 5/8 inch. It does have a couple of second cool down period also.

The plus. I paid 407 dollars delivered to my door and it has worked flawlessly.

The negative. If or when it needs service it may very well be a throw away unit.

It is kind of like the guy who fell off the Empire State Building. As we went past the 43 floor he said "So far, so good."

John
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  #833 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2013, 08:27 PM
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plasma air.

You MUST have DRY air for a plasma. I have an ESAB supplier demo that cost me 2 K a few years ago and a little bit of moisture did $ 100 damage in 2 seconds. I started building the propane bottle filled with kitty litter that some one here on HR showed a couple years ago.
https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/pics...er-207499.html
then I have a motor guard filter then the plastic cartridge that changes color when it needs replacing. I need to save up and buy a new shop air compressor.Mine is about 30 years old. and mabe buy a refrigerated dryer.

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  #834 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2013, 05:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
If the Hobart plasma is as good as their MIG welder you can't go wrong. My Hobart welder has been great for 20 years.

Mine is indeed a China built inverter. It is a Lotus. It has never had a delay that I had noticed and it is 50 amp, rated to cut 1/2 stock and sever 5/8 inch. It does have a couple of second cool down period also.

The plus. I paid 407 dollars delivered to my door and it has worked flawlessly.

The negative. If or when it needs service it may very well be a throw away unit.

It is kind of like the guy who fell off the Empire State Building. As we went past the 43 floor he said "So far, so good."

John
You got a good one and the price is hard to fault. You could go thru 2 of yours to my 1 and still be ahead... Sounds like an affordable solution for a hobbyist.
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  #835 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2013, 01:12 PM
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Well, back to fixing the door for a while. There just was no way the bottom lip of this thing was going to be straight enough for me to wrap a door skin around it. I finally gave up and cut the front lip off and fabricated a new one.



It is so much better now. If you look closely you will see the measuring stick is resting on the lower lip which is now straight and level.



Once I get the last corner in there will be lots of welds to grind. I also want to Epoxy the inside of the door and skin after it is cleaned up.



Here is a shot of the template for the last corner. It needs to be transferred to a bigger piece of poster board but you get the idea.

I am feeling much better now.

John

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  #836 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 11:05 AM
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I had a feeling you weren't going to leave it alone...

Glad you are happy with it now.
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  #837 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 11:34 AM
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Looking good John.

I finally got caught up with this thread. I've had no email notifications from this site for about two weeks.

Next time you have tough patches, make them in two pieces each. There are no rules.....
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  #838 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 12:37 PM
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Looking awesome John, how did you do it, stretch the bottom lip?

Brian
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  #839 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 03:01 PM
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Looking awesome John, how did you do it, stretch the bottom lip?

Brian
I tried and tried Brian but when I would get it straight "in and out" it would be off up and down "too long"

I finally just made a new bottom lip and replaced the offending part as Pugsy described. You can see the weld line along the bottom.

John

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  #840 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2013, 03:59 PM
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I knew you wouldnt stop until it stopped buggin you........good for you.
One thing I screwed up was welding the outer patch on when it was still on the table...I measured everything ,it looked fantastic but it was about 3/8 " too low (about the width of a flange) and I had no gap at all on the bottom.. it had to be takin back apart and redone,Thats a lot of wasted time ...completely welded from front to back and ground down... ever since then I use the drill screws and do a test fit...
ain nobody got time fer dat..
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