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  #931 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2013, 06:27 PM
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Looks pretty slick, now I have to acquire a tipping wheel too...
How am I ever going to keep up with you...

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  #932 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2013, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
You are THE MAN. I am not kidding, I may talk a bit but when I saw what you have done with what you have I am humbled believe me. I am DAMN HAPPY to have what I have to work in believe me.

Thanks for pointing that out, we need a reminder every once in a while as to how damn lucky we ALL are to be able to do what we do on any scale.

Brian
Thanks Brian! It was toasty warm out there today until I ran out of propane! At least it was a good time to quit. It's mid 30's and too cold when the space heater isn't running!
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  #933 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2013, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Looks pretty slick, now I have to acquire a tipping wheel too...
How am I ever going to keep up with you...
Well, I have about 22 dollars in this including a 22mm drill bit. I think you can afford to keep up.

I do think it will truly work well when I am done with it.
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  #934 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2013, 08:28 PM
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door skin

When I did the deck lid skin for the 29 nash roadster I used the brake to just get a very slight line on the sides, I bent the top hem seam so I could hook it over the flange , I used the brake line to follow to fold over the for the curved sides. I think I paid a lot more for my 2 piece hub and pulley from burdens, I bought the "skate board wheel" from reids, it was the orange one that had the right hardness, the gray one was too hard, I should have thought about a 22 mm bit, then I could easily make more dies.
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  #935 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2013, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
When I did the deck lid skin for the 29 nash roadster I used the brake to just get a very slight line on the sides, I bent the top hem seam so I could hook it over the flange , I used the brake line to follow to fold over the for the curved sides. I think I paid a lot more for my 2 piece hub and pulley from burdens, I bought the "skate board wheel" from reids, it was the orange one that had the right hardness, the gray one was too hard, I should have thought about a 22 mm bit, then I could easily make more dies.
I am not following how you used a brake on the curved side. What am I missing?

John
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  #936 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2013, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Well, I have about 22 dollars in this including a 22mm drill bit. I think you can afford to keep up.

I do think it will truly work well when I am done with it.
especially when you need to make a round lip, a lot of doors and deck lids have rounded corners insted of square ones.....like 55-57 chevys for instance where the front of the door bottom is square and the back is rounded and the deck is rounded on both sides...years ago I made a hammer form for making these rounded door bottoms and I used it quite often but it was limited to those cars only ,with the tipping wheel you can make rounded lips for anything....
The next thing you need to power up is that bad boy slip roller you got there ...

Last edited by deadbodyman; 12-20-2013 at 06:25 AM.
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Old 12-20-2013, 06:23 AM
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I may have missed somewhere John, but what are you using to power your bead roller? It looks like a GM electric window motor.
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  #938 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2013, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevymon View Post
I may have missed somewhere John, but what are you using to power your bead roller? It looks like a GM electric window motor.

It is a Craftsmen chain drive garage door opener head. 35 bucks with free shipping on Ebay.

I posted the build here.

https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/conv...er-255097.html

John
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  #939 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2013, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
especially when you need to make a round lip, a lot of doors and deck lids have rounded corners insted of square ones.....like 55-57 chevys for instance where the front of the door bottom is square and the back is rounded and the deck is rounded on both sides...years ago I made a hammer form for making these rounded door bottoms and I used it quite often but it was limited to those cars only ,with the tipping wheel you can make rounded lips for anything....
The next thing you need to power up is that bad boy slip roller you got there ...
I have always tipped my flanges on the English Wheel but this will be easier.

The thing you have to deal with is the distortion that develops as you tip a flange on a curve. I try to shrink the flange in the shrinker/stretchers before it gets tipped to the point it won't go into the jaws. If you look at the curved corner of a factory skin you will notice they keep the flange narrow through that area so it does not wad up.

I will try to post some pictures of making the skin when I get back to the shop. It may be after Christmas before I get much done though.

John
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  #940 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2013, 09:14 AM
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metal brake.

Instead of using a scribe, I used the brake to just leave a good straight line. I have had aluminum start to tear when I scribed a line. probably too deep a scribe. I usually just use a hammer and dolly to make the fold on a curved surface. But I do have the V belt pully on my bead roller and will spend some time on the lathe to rework it into a tipping die
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  #941 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2013, 09:20 AM
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slip roller ?

That looks like a slip roller in the background. Have you posted it somewhere.? I have been looking at some junk farm machinery for parts to make one. this one powers all 3 rollers.
Home made sheet metal roller - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information
I had problems using the schools old roller when making a one piece top hood for the T speedster, the metal would not feed very good when one end was tight and the other one loose to roll a cone profile for the t radiator end.

Last edited by timothale; 12-20-2013 at 09:30 AM.
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  #942 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2013, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
Instead of using a scribe, I used the brake to just leave a good straight line. I have had aluminum start to tear when I scribed a line. probably too deep a scribe. I usually just use a hammer and dolly to make the fold on a curved surface. But I do have the V belt pully on my bead roller and will spend some time on the lathe to rework it into a tipping die
So you are marking the line with your brake BEFORE you are putting the curve in it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
That looks like a slip roller in the background. Have you posted it somewhere. I have been looking at some junk farm machinery for parts to make one.
Yes, it is made out of a set of rollers that came out of a paper mill. It was made by a dear friend and neighbor for me when I lived in Knoxville. He also made my English Wheel.

John


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  #943 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2013, 01:25 PM
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Break line

I use the brake just to get a good straight line. I bent square tubing to support the quarter panels and upper and lower back panels aroung the opening, tacked to the body skin . the deck lid tubing frame is about 1 1/2 inch smaller than the opening. I sheared 20 gage strips about 2 in wide and tacked them to the deck lid frame work. I laid that over the opening, got inside and scribed the opening. then used a hand shear to trim off an extra 1/8 to allow for bend over and gap. I then clamped the skin piece and scribed it and allowed 1/4 for the fold over.. I hadn't had much experience on the english wheel and some one else over crowned their skin so I left the panel flat. Before I started the final attachment to the deck lid frame. I used the mag brake to get the bends started for the top and bottom and just very light break lines for the sides, more for alignment and as a guide where to hammer it. A flat deck lid skin didn't look right so after it was assembled we punched in 105 louvers.

Last edited by timothale; 12-20-2013 at 01:36 PM.
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  #944 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2013, 01:34 PM
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slip roller

My brother used to own a printing business and had some spare parts for printing newspaper size stock. I have a few solid rollers and bearings. Farm machinery will furnish more parts. I just haven't found the right sized gears yet. Having the bottom rollers chain driven would prevent the slipping problems I had. I started on a helve hammer but didn't get it tuned to work right. I got a junk Ideal carton stapler that I have most of the work done to build a dedicated thumbnail shrinker, then a mini Pullmax type machine from some junk steel mill pieces.
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  #945 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2013, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale View Post
My brother used to own a printing business and had some spare parts for printing newspaper size stock. I have a few solid rollers and bearings. Farm machinery will furnish more parts. I just haven't found the right sized gears yet. Having the bottom rollers chain driven would prevent the slipping problems I had. I started on a helve hammer but didn't get it tuned to work right. I got a junk Ideal carton stapler that I have most of the work done to build a dedicated thumbnail shrinker, then a mini Pullmax type machine from some junk steel mill pieces.
Now the dedicated thumb nail shrinker sounds really exciting. Metal shrinking is always the challenge. There are many ways to stretch metal but few ways to shrink it. I would love to see you start a thread showing how you went about building it.

John
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