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Old 04-25-2020, 03:41 PM
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57 chevy rain gutter rust

This 57 chevy has been in the family since the early 60's. The car belonged to my two other brothers, which have died. Now it's mine. It was a fast car in the day, but has sat, and has some rust issues. I have seen a lot worse on the internet. It has some rust through, which will be metal replacement. My question is about 1/2 inch above the rain gutter has a series of small rust through holes. The rain gutter is sound. I was thinking of sandblasting both sides and using kitty hair on the inside, and body filler on the outside. Any other helpful ideas? If I were younger and had the money I would have someone else do it. I am neither. Stan

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Old 04-25-2020, 06:45 PM
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Don't use fiberglass on the steel. Different expansion rate then the steel and it will delaminate after a fashion.
If you can get both sides cleaned up, and don't want to weld in a patch, Metal 2 Metal is a good alternative. Make sure ALL of the rust is gone and use the Metal 2 Metal on both sides. This will be a preliminary application on the outside. Use you regular filler to do the finish work.
Mark
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Old 04-25-2020, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stan's52 View Post
This 57 chevy has been in the family since the early 60's. The car belonged to my two other brothers, which have died. Now it's mine. It was a fast car in the day, but has sat, and has some rust issues. I have seen a lot worse on the internet. It has some rust through, which will be metal replacement. My question is about 1/2 inch above the rain gutter has a series of small rust through holes. The rain gutter is sound. I was thinking of sandblasting both sides and using kitty hair on the inside, and body filler on the outside. Any other helpful ideas? If I were younger and had the money I would have someone else do it. I am neither. Stan
Kitty Hair will hold down rust for at least 5 years for your application. Same for All Metal.
Sounds like you just want to get the Ole girl back on the road.
Is it a world class job? No. Will it look nice for many years to come? Yes. Especially if it is done right. And longer if it not left on the elements.
Edit
Tap down, and Kitty hair the outside. Inside really doesn't need to be touched at this point... Unless you want to do a concourse job.

Last edited by Excellenceautosoluti; 04-25-2020 at 11:08 PM. Reason: Don't blast both sides unless you want to.
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Old 04-26-2020, 09:54 AM
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Getting the Old Gal back on the road is my intention. It will never be a show car. My brother always talked about Wanting to get his 56, he named The Grey Rail, going again. It sat covered up for years, while some piece of crap pickup sat in his shop. Pain pills took over his body, and reasoning until the end, the first of the year. He bought a crate motor, I believe it was a 350. Back in the day, it was one of the fastest cars in our town. Stan
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Old 04-26-2020, 10:31 AM
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You say it has some rust through elsewhere which will be metal replacement, so I'll assume welding is possible. I don't approve of specialty fillers at all, for metal work.

You say you can blast both sides. Perfect! Here is what I might consider advising a co-worker to do. Personally, I would probe with a small drill bit then weld up holes and patch anything that won't hide under a quarter inch dot. Or so.

With clean metal, place a tightly fitted backing strip of new bare steel behind the row of holes. Attach it beyond and along the row with screws. Now weld the rust holes shut. Next, remove screws and weld those holes. This method will simplify the job of getting a hole free metal bed for filler to lay on and help foolproof the repair to some degree, against making it worse.

As far as corrosion protection for a lasting repair, I prefer brush-flooding epoxy primer into the overlap area post-welding as opposed to using weld-thru primer beforehand. In a touchy spot like the edge of a roof, the primer interferes with the welding to an undesireable extent in my experience. The main concern is sealing the repair from air contact as best you can.
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Old 04-26-2020, 04:40 PM
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I also don't recommend "weld thru" primer. What does the primer do as soon as you do a weld? Burns off, starts a fire... Makes very stinky black smoke... After you "burn it off" with a weld what do you need to do? Yup, go back in, clean off all of that burnt junk and re-prime... Weld thru primer may have a place in some situations but I have never been happy with it...
Mark
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Old 04-28-2020, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
You say it has some rust through elsewhere which will be metal replacement, so I'll assume welding is possible. I don't approve of specialty fillers at all, for metal work.

You say you can blast both sides. Perfect! Here is what I might consider advising a co-worker to do. Personally, I would probe with a small drill bit then weld up holes and patch anything that won't hide under a quarter inch dot. Or so.

With clean metal, place a tightly fitted backing strip of new bare steel behind the row of holes. Attach it beyond and along the row with screws. Now weld the rust holes shut. Next, remove screws and weld those holes. This method will simplify the job of getting a hole free metal bed for filler to lay on and help foolproof the repair to some degree, against making it worse.

As far as corrosion protection for a lasting repair, I prefer brush-flooding epoxy primer into the overlap area post-welding as opposed to using weld-thru primer beforehand. In a touchy spot like the edge of a roof, the primer interferes with the welding to an undesireable extent in my experience. The main concern is sealing the repair from air contact as best you can.
All good advice. The only type of primer that's designed to block both oxygen and moisture is the aluminum pigmented moisture cured Permanent Rust Sealer. I would coat both sides of the repair with 2 coats of this primer and then the epoxy over it.This will give you maximum corrosion resistance.
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Old 04-28-2020, 04:33 AM
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All good advice. The only type of primer that's designed to block both oxygen and moisture is the aluminum pigmented moisture cured Permanent Rust Sealer. I would coat both sides of the repair with 2 coats of this primer and then the epoxy over it.This will give you maximum corrosion resistance.
Thanks, Pat.

Putting epoxy over any coating or treatment is incorrect usage. Ideally, if a need for additional protection is needed (which by my estimation is overkill in this scenario), my suggestion would be to apply any topcoat paint. Over the recently cured epoxy primer. The epoxy brand normally mentioned here should be sufficient alone. Don't believe me? Go to the SPI site and say the epoxy doesn't block oxygen and moisture.

Realistically, the whole rest of the perimeter of the roof is not likely to recieve the same treatment and will continue rusting from inside if the vehicle is stored outdoors or in an area where temperature varies widely.

No offense intended. I just avoid mentioning brands of anything for personal reasons and one man's strategy is just that. But my first sentence after the greeting in this reply needed to be said. Thanks for your tolerance.
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Old 04-28-2020, 04:43 AM
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Since I've already crossed the product mentioning line I can add this... Stranded fillers can be difficult to force into pits, due to their heavy bodied nature. The exception I have found to that is U-Pol's Fibral. Spreads (and kinda looks like) creamy tuna salad. Very easy to use, and as stable as any other stranded filler. Adding this in case the OP does not wish to have a welded repair. As with any filler, freshness of the product and hardener are one key to success.
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Old 04-28-2020, 08:51 AM
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Epoxy primer is routinely used over the moisture cured on a daily basis. This is a standard industrial coatings type situation. I have shops that I've supplied for almost 30 years that the entire project is primed with silver and then an epoxy surfacer over it. Some people just believe in overkill. I won't post anything more on this forum
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:27 AM
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Epoxy primer is routinely used over the moisture cured on a daily basis. This is a standard industrial coatings type situation. I have shops that I've supplied for almost 30 years that the entire project is primed with silver and then an epoxy surfacer over it. Some people just believe in overkill. I won't post anything more on this forum
Mercy sakes, don't run off. I am only familiar with automotive. No worries on my end, to each his own. Peace.
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Old 04-28-2020, 11:41 AM
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I, for one, would like to hear more about the silver system and specific products. Bust some new knowledge over my head, please.
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Old 04-28-2020, 07:50 PM
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I, for one, would like to hear more about the silver system and specific products. Bust some new knowledge over my head, please.
Matt I appreciate your thoughts I have sent you a PM where you can get some information ...Thank you and take care Pat
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