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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-13-2014, 04:48 AM
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Old 05-16-2014, 01:16 AM
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What about cam specs? Iv'e been told a solid cam is best for power but you have to set the valve lash weekly?? That sounds like a pain in the ***, if its only tens of hp difference id rather a hydraulic cam that I can set and forget about.
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Old 05-16-2014, 06:42 AM
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the higher the horse power the engine makes(usually higher RPM) the bigger the difference between solid and hydraulic. And you are talking roller cam? I could see you adjusting or checking lash a couple times a year unless you race a lot
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Old 05-16-2014, 09:53 AM
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Weekly adjustment for a solid lifter cam...no, not unless this is a full tilt ProStock type all out race engine where you are pushing all the limits on valvetrain parts durability.

I typically lash my Street/Strip car (11.50 seconds 1/4 mile 400 SBC) twice a year...once when I get it out in the spring, and once part way through the year, maybe twice if I'm feeling bored or frisky. Same deal with a friends 10.50 second car, 383 SBC. Normally never find anything has moved more then a .001-.002" on the lash at each check.

It isn't like it used to be in the 60's, with stock rocker arms, pushrods, and valvesprings causing a need to adjust a lot. Today's modern materials and parts are much better.

Worth it for the power and rpm as far as I'm concerned.
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:01 PM
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Roller rockers and lock-nuts with stiff pushrods...Not to mention it seems like todays modern solid flat-tappet camshafts run a lot less lash than the old cams did. Twice a year seems right.
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Old 05-18-2014, 03:18 AM
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Cheers for all this guys, really useful info. Think i'll go with a solid blower cam then
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Old 05-18-2014, 09:31 AM
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if you only want 6-700 hp,you dont "need" a solid cam.If you plan to step it up a lot,then that is different.

maybe post the other parts you are using so we can look at the list?
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:12 AM
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Well so far ive got the 350 block 4 bolt mains (1970 something), Scat 383 crank, Speed master H beam rods, Probe forged pistons 30 thou oversize and -22cc dished, pro street harmonic balancer, new gasket kit and 200cc aluminum heads with stainless valves and uprated springs. Timing gear and bearings are new too

Still need lots of parts, but hard building this engine while trying to build the car and working haha. Cam and roller rockers next? The heads and everything above can go on once the block and gearbox have been fitted to the car.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:59 AM
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who's 200 cc heads are we talking? Thats a lot of power to be leaving on the table,,,,
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:09 PM
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Head specs are:
Combustion Chamber Volume 64cc
Exhaust Runner Volume 70cc
Intake Runner Volume 200cc
Spark Plug Style Straight
Intake Valve Diameter (in) 2.020 in.
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in) 1.600 in.
Maximum Valve Lift (in) 0.575 in.
Number of Springs Per Valve: Dual

So far ive spent about 3.5 grand, not too bad really. Would love to post a pic of the car but not sure how, I tried posting a link to facebook but didnt work.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:14 PM
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those are tiny heads for a super charged rocket. Try you tube? also try making an album,,,
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:00 PM
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You didn't say anything at the beginning of this thread about having heads, and were asking about what size to buy...and were advised by a couple of folks here that 200cc would be too small, and to look at 215-220cc or bigger....so you went and got 200cc anyway??

What company made these heads??...Yeah, it makes a difference.

Saying the springs are "uprated" and "good for .575" lift" tells nothing about the spring really. Need to know seated and open pressures, coil bind height, and spring rate.
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:14 PM
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Right, I didnt think 15-20cc would matter too much. 200cc was the biggest I could find here (in aluminum). The brand is NZAD, cost $1200. They simply said the springs were "High Performance". Can always replace them with better if need be, springs arnt expensive.
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:15 PM
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its not just the size of the holes in the head that determines air flow. You need to know how many CFM of air can come in the intake side and how much can exit.We need both numbers.I know nothing at all about NZAD castings?
When building a custom engine sometimes buying the castings bare is the best bet. Then when you buy a camshaft you get the matching cam kit.Myself,I go as far as buying extreme duty SS manley valves for a giant roller cam as I dont want the valve head to come unglued from extreme valve spring pressures and/or high rpm,,,,
and here we go again
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:19 AM
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NZAD is New Zealand Automotive Distributors. They make a big deal of telling you they get the castings factory direct; without telling you where the factory is. They're obviously chinese castings; which in and of itself is not bad. However, is it an Assault core; or a lesser quality casting? No one knows. Considering the "high performance" generic springs, and obfuscating marketing, I suspect they're a lesser quality casting.
Just my opinion.
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