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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2016, 09:13 AM
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Heres a few from the '69 that should help you with weld placement at least.
















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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2016, 09:21 AM
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I love pictures These are from the 68-





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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2016, 09:27 AM
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This is lead removal on my 72 GP. I showed you about patching over the seam already, right? The two camaros got different style roof skins, I'm curious how yours is made at the quarter seam.



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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2016, 06:18 PM
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Awesome, thanks! I wasn't able to get out there due to cleaning up from the mess left and getting the family situated from the hurricane. I'll get some done tomorrow though.
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2016, 03:25 PM
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Welding rusted metal sucks. I'm done for the day. I'll clean up the welds with a carbide bit and that part will be done. The pillar has brazing in it at the bottom and has some rust I'll have to get as well. It's on the inside where the weather stripping goes.









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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2016, 04:21 PM
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I'd like to see what that roof looked like before the last "restoration"...

Glad you got your power back already.
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2016, 04:45 PM
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Me too. Do you think it looks good enough to move forward?
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:00 PM
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That forward corner where the visor mount is, kinda bothers me. It could be a weak area but it only has to support the roof....unless you land on the roof. I guess the roll cage takes over from there... You need enough structural integrity to prevent the body from twisting and creating wrinkles in the roof skin and popping bondo under hard acceleration with that engine you have. Test fitting the roof skin to see how accurate your flange patch is would be a good move now.

If you plan to have visors, I would cut that piece out and replace with good metal. I can see where they already clocked the mount around trying to find something to run the screws into.
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2016, 05:32 PM
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No visors. The cage is right there. It's a 12 point cage. I'm not worried about the body twisting, the cage makes this extremely ridgid. I actually have an extra piece in there that isn't on the other side. I have it continuing under all the way to the A pillar. I ordered the A pillar drip rail as well.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2016, 06:28 PM
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The welding is progressing as well as can be expected I reckon, considering how bad rusty it all is. This is good practice. The key with clean-to-rusty welds is to keep it on the clean side and drag it barely onto the rusty at the end. Heres a few tacks like that which I recently did. Doesn't look much different!



Along the lines of what Mitch said... Nobody wants to hear the windshield pop loose over there or crack. I'd like to see you make a flat patch over the whole visor mount area. Where the square hole used to be complete, with the rolled edge. Just go over the top of that and tie in to the new little angled piece and grab the end of the cross brace reinforcement also, the 90 degree piece that sticks up. What do you guys think?
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2016, 07:27 PM
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That was my area of concern. In his 7th pic, if he made a patch to go over the entire triangle shaped hole and tie in to the header, it would help compensate for all the metal that is missing and badly rusted in that corner.
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2016, 08:14 PM
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Exactamundo! It would be in the lower left corner of the last (9th) pic but extend past the pic's bottom a little. Lots of plug welds rather than edges where possible please. Gotta get good at those sometime! Anytime you can get the good steel behind (below) the rusty stuff, thats preferred for ease of welding.
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2016, 09:22 AM
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I'm going to try and get a pair of hands to help me test fit the roof skin. Going forward, what's the best way to do the drip rails and roof skin?





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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2016, 12:35 PM
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I'd say if there's no witness marks left to show the old drip rail position, start by clamping the rails to the skin. Let the roof corners fall where they want to then connect the rails to the beam. I've not replaced drip rails so that's a guess. Manipulate the rail rather than the skin to match things up. Fore and aft positioning of the rail could be roughly determined referencing your new A pillar rails. The visor area thing isn't what I had in mind but does probably help it.
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2016, 02:52 PM
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I was going to do it the way you suggested, but I feared that it would interfere with the roof skin. I finished welding the top of the cage that you couldn't get to before in the mean time.


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