69 Chevelle quarter panel replacement - Page 11 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans Advertise
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #151 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2016, 08:13 PM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
Cool. Yep I did that to the 68 Camaro. Welding clean thick stuff is SO much more fun!

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #152 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2016, 09:27 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 124
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Cool. Yep I did that to the 68 Camaro. Welding clean thick stuff is SO much more fun!
That was anything but clean haha I'm going to do the front down bars as well since they don't look asthecally pleasing either.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #153 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2016, 06:40 AM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
By clean I just meant not half gone from rust.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
  #154 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 07:02 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 124
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
So I'm finally able to work on the car, but I realized how stupid I am now. IDJ, anyway you could take a measurement like I should have done and put in a brace? There is a ton of flex that completely changes the lineup of the panels near the roof. If it's possible, measurements across the quarter window brace would be supremely helpful! Anything you get will work, I just need to know where you take them so I can replicate it and make them fit!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #155 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 07:38 AM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
We may be in trouble, my brain is fading lately too. My project is on the rotisserie now also, and I can't get at it until Monday. It's flipped up on the side and the blaster may be on it then also. Measurements may not be 100% valid with the car mounted up like that. What are you calling the quarter window brace? So we're on the same page, can you point it out?

In this situation, at least for the moment, comparative measurements to the rescue. If you can get matching dimensions on either side by shimming your supported points, you'll be in the ballpark. Go make sure the rockers are level or hang loose while I scare up the frame chart for some height references. Those will tell us if or how much the tail is sagging so you can lift it to the correct position. Switching devices, be right back.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #156 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 08:30 AM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
Here you go, second from the top-

Chevelle Frames

Thanks to user waynep for finding that page.

As I may have said way way back, you'll need to establish a center line and datum plane of sorts, to get serious. Kind of like what I did on top of the Camaro but upside-down. Taut string or fishing line could be used to create these height references under the body. What I'm calling a datum plane is the bottom line of the bottom illustration.

For example, assuming body mounts are of a similar thickness under the body shell, we can reference the chart and see the two 10-3/4" dimensions under the passenger area. If you level the rockers and consider those four body mount points as 0 height, you can then go to the rearmost body mount where the chart says 16". You should then find that point to be 5-1/4" above the 0 height. Get my drift? This should point out the tail sag amount so you can jack up the tail panel.

Once you establish that height, you can measure points on top using my overhead Camaro method to establish comparative heights of those. Such as the window bed's top and bottom, package tray, rear window filler, drip rails, etc.

Once height is established in these spots, X measurements between two sets of them will tell you if the area is square or trapezoidal (tilted square) and that indicates if something is off side-to-side.

Study hard now. Start at the bottom, think your way through. If this is confusing, re-ask please. I may not be best at putting things into words and it can be hard to form a 3D mental picture just looking at measurements you collect but I've done it a bunch. So try this stuff and report your findings if these pointers don't shed enough light.

I'll check back in periodically today. Chances are you'll get the hang of the measuring once you start. It will click and you'll find something off and be able to imagine the defect and solution once you measure to your heart's content. You are looking for differences that are near to or greater than 1/4". 1/8" is about as close as they ever were at a given point on the body.

Keep at it, holler back. Don't get too freaked out by what you find. This part may not be as fun as the chopping but it IS quite rewarding personally, to "know-know" in your own mind that the body isn't out of whack.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #157 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 08:36 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 124
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
I'm referring to this structure




I found the frame measurements, but I don't think I'm smart enough to translate that into interior measurements.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #158 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 08:49 AM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 98camarod View Post
I'm referring to this structure




I found the frame measurements, but I don't think I'm smart enough to translate that into interior measurements.

Is that view on top of the B-post looking down? Measure from there to a spot at the edge of the floor on the opposite side. Do that on both sides then compare.

I may need to look at some pics of mine and yours then draw something to figure out the exact points to measure. But whats important is that all dimensions match side-to side. The actual distance is less important, you're looking at how the sides compare to each other rather than a spec.

I am conjuring imagery to assist... hang in there.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #159 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 09:12 AM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
If you can find a spot where the cage doesn't interfere, this will tell you if the posts are standing up straight. Man that drawing is sloppy. Does it help visualize?





Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	qtrbracearrow.JPG
Views:	122
Size:	69.9 KB
ID:	330202   Click image for larger version

Name:	flooredge.jpg
Views:	142
Size:	47.3 KB
ID:	330210   Click image for larger version

Name:	xacross.JPG
Views:	152
Size:	28.8 KB
ID:	330218  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #160 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 09:33 AM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
I just don't have the right views to illustrate. The red X and blue parallel lines above form a square on most cars but I haven't measured my project yet. Heres another view with the X measuring point in yellow.

The orange line shows how once you establish the B-posts to be straight up and down, you could lay a straightedge inside the quarter at that area and check side-to-side roof structure position by measuring inward at the same height on both sides. To see if the roof is centered.

Bear in mind that if the body was tweaked when the cage was installed, you may have to somehow fudge things to compensate. More scribble coming up, about the front part...

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	acrossandup.jpg
Views:	194
Size:	57.6 KB
ID:	330258  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #161 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 09:50 AM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
OK heres this pic and I'll wait for you to digest and try stuff. Hope this can get you started in the right direction. You may need help on the other end of the tape measure. Remember, you are just wanting matching numbers from mirrored points. If its still just a puzzle, let me know what measurements to snag off ol yeller Monday. Or I'll guess.

Do you understand the part about checking the tail panel height based on the frame specs? I could also illustrate that.

There were never any published body dimensions that I know of and thats why comparative measurements are the key for doing this panel replacement dance.

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	A-pillarspots.jpg
Views:	189
Size:	55.0 KB
ID:	330266  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #162 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 09:53 AM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
By the way, all the arrowheads are supposed to point at the same places! Slop, lol. I'm confident that you'll get a hendle on this once you get going. Beer might actually help!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #163 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 10:12 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 124
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 11 Times in 10 Posts
I got what you are saying regarding measuring to ensure squareness. I'll have to get a hand to hold it in the same spot each time. My wife gets easily frustrated and hates helping. I'll see if I can get my daughter lol

I've been messing around with the drip rails as well. I can't find any pictures that show them from underneath to see how they are in relation to the roof structure. I think there is a small overhang and it should be welded flush with the drop down if that makes any sense. Have you ever removed the drip rails completely? I like the look and feel like it might be easier get a clean symmetrical look. I could see it being a bunch of welding and grinding, but I think it will look better. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks for all the assistance by the way!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #164 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 11:03 AM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
Oof. Surrounded by females could make it a challenge, lol. On that, do yourself a favor and list your places to be measured on a diagram so you can write them down and not have do-overs. Because patience and accuracy on the part of tape end holder may be required.

An alternative to help could be masking tape. Stick it, mark it, peel and measure. Thats a li'l iffy but y'know. Maybe some MIG wire would do and not stretch. Its best if you can hook the end of the tape measure in a hole or on a flange but its kind of approximate no matter what. Good luck with that part.

On the drip rail shave, two things: I'd have been disappointed if shaving them didn't occur to you. It would look killer. But man, I really would not advise tackling that at your level. As bad as I hate to pass up the chance to do it, you already have an epic adventure to face and shouldn't add to it IMO.

As is often said: "Maybe on the next one" lol. I think if I were doing it, I'd seriously consider bonding. And structural integrity would be a valid concern because the body relies on that seam a lot for stiffness. Your call though.

Let me look for a shot from under the rail, I may have a partial...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #165 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2016, 11:21 AM
idrivejunk's Avatar
Grand Prix User
 

Last journal entry: Last look
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 4,070
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4,608
Thanked 5,441 Times in 3,201 Posts
Nope on a pic under the rail. Can post some tomorrow evening probably. You'll be ahead if you can nail down some measurements today. As I said before, the way I'd want it to work is for the roof skin to fit all four corners then let the drip rail land wherever it matches up to the skin. Try fitting the roof with no rails so they don't interfere while you position the skin for best fit.

No sweat on the advice, its fun to me but I do take it a little too serious or so I've been told. Just wish I was into my project further so I could be more specific for you at this point. I'll do what I can but you're the guy standing next to the car. Don't be suprised if the roof skin corners need tweaks to lay right. If I were you, today I'd focus on confirming dimensions and a comfortable fit of roof skin to the A and C pillars.

I'll be in and out of the garage today myself so just pipe up with any other questions as you go. Don't skip past checking tail panel height. That will continue to bite you if not addressed. Like I said, I can scribble it if needed.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1970 chevelle quarter panel replacement Lovemius Body - Exterior 3 06-14-2014 04:33 PM
quarter panel replacement 81camaro1 Body - Exterior 7 10-06-2013 10:39 PM
67 Mustang Quarter Panel Replacement Morgan22 Body - Exterior 8 07-16-2010 03:30 PM
Quarter Panel Replacement jakejake1966 Body - Exterior 2 07-05-2006 08:56 PM
quarter panel replacement 38chevysedan Body - Exterior 3 10-30-2005 08:58 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.