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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2016, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
OUCH, yeah, the whole inner structure behind the roof skin/quarter appear to be gone from rust. You're most likely looking for donor parts to replace the inner structure....not much available repop for that.

Like idj said, it may be like that all over. Have you removed the rear window trim and inspected the pinchweld area ? I'm thinking there is more structural damage there as well... How is the package tray ? It just keeps traveling.
Yepper, and he could pull down the edge molding and possibly take the edges of the headliner loose. It would hang from the bows while inspecting the inner structure. Trouble is, all that outer half of the inner structure along the drip rail is not visible with the roof skin on. Except where theres holes in the inner to look through.

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Old 08-20-2016, 05:54 AM
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I pretty much have the interior gutted any how right now. I couldn't see this from inside. It's hard to tell, but it looks as if the only problem is that part of the roof that was repaired and that small portion of the structure. When I got the car, it didn't have a vinyl top as it was supposed to. So obviously there has been some stuff that has been covered up from the vinyl top rust issue. Here is what I have





This is going to be a drag/weekend cruiser.



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Old 08-20-2016, 06:07 AM
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I also should mention that there was a fire mishap while I was fixing the sweet outer wheelhouses that they destroyed. Long story short, I was welding the passenger side outer wheelhouse in early in the morning, kids woke up and wanted breakfast. I gave everything a once over, nothing stuck out to me and this was after atleast 20 minutes of welding being finished. I was heading inside, opened the garage door to cool off the garage and went in. Not even 5 minutes later, a neighbor late for work banged on my front door and told me my garage was on fire. I was luckily able to put it out with a fire extinguisher and water hose. But the damage was done. I had a car cover on the roof to protect the paint and the hood was on top of that. I had fire cloth on the entire inside, but also had a few small boxes of parts on the DRIVERS side which were also covered with the cloth. Somehow it must have gotten behind and caught once I opened the garage door. I know how paint doesn't like to stick to burnt metal, but I intend on returning the vinyl top since I prefer that look anyways. I think that's part of the reason of so much surface rust there as well as the fire was concentrated on the drivers side as you can see from the awesome melt job of my kirkey seat. A sad series of events. If I didn't have the parts in the car, all would have been well.



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Old 08-20-2016, 07:14 AM
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Wow. Good news, awful back story. Wicked automobile! I dig how it's all about the hairdryers.

So- in the newly found corrosion hotspot area... what would you like to know? Clean the metal up as best you can. I like wire wheels and clean-n-strip discs and 40 grit then scuff pad to finish. Maybe a small blaster if you've got one. Clean with wax and grease remover.

I prefer to then use a rust converter (single step kind, Eastwood has a good one) to address any remaining rust in pits. After another thorough round of cleaning and sanding the dried rust converter, it's time for epoxy primer to stick to all that. Then topcoat paint of any kind, to seal out the air and moisture.

Patch what you can't live with, or anything that makes it weak. The choice of overlapping and plug welding is more OK on inner structure. As opposed to butt welding, as preferred on exterior skins.

Thanks for filling in the blanks. If you have more specific inquiries than that, fire away ha ha. I bet it's nothing you can't handle, I don't have any burnt metal not letting paint stick instances to report myself, others may, Epoxy primer alone is the only currently accepted way to stick to bare steel, and with proper prep I doubt you'll have trouble with that. Don't expect criticism for having the fire, man. We all fix cars here, so you can zoom out now, lol.
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:36 AM
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I'd honestly rather not remove the roof. I know I'd have to replace the rails as well because I'm sure I'd ruin them on the removal process. I'd also have to get another freight shipment and hope that this doesn't get damaged as one of my fenders and quarter panels did.

I think what I'll do is continue on with the quarter panel and do the passenger side. If it is in fact in a similar state, then I suppose I'll do it. Another concern I should have is the package tray where the connector piece mounts. There is quite a bit of rust that I found during the weather strip/liquid nail removal. I'd be able to fab up the small pieces that require replacing in the structure, that's not a problem. However the roof removal is haha

Does this sound like a plan or should I rethink it? If I don't weld the drives in and just use cleco's to hold it in place? I'm using that evapo rust in spray form right now.
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:34 AM
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Well, that certainly sucks. I'm thinking you had no plans to do anything with the body right now until the "mishap". Now you have this mess to repair. If you can fab replacements patches to restore the structural integrity behind the outer skins, that is probably the most sensible thing to do. It will provide solid anchor points for the new outer panels.

I'm not sure what you are referring to with not welding in the "drives " ?? Many of us use self tapping drill screws to hold panels and patches in place while fitting and such. I have a set of clecos I used once and found them a bit slow and cumbersome compared to the drill screws.
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Old 08-21-2016, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Well, that certainly sucks. I'm thinking you had no plans to do anything with the body right now until the "mishap". Now you have this mess to repair. If you can fab replacements patches to restore the structural integrity behind the outer skins, that is probably the most sensible thing to do. It will provide solid anchor points for the new outer panels.

I'm not sure what you are referring to with not welding in the "drives " ?? Many of us use self tapping drill screws to hold panels and patches in place while fitting and such. I have a set of clecos I used once and found them a bit slow and cumbersome compared to the drill screws.
I was missing a letter, it was supposed to be drivers. So, not weld the drivers side, but still move forward with replacing the passengers side. Just leaving the drivers side in mockup.

Also, I thought I had all the lead out, but I can't seem to get the last little bit of the quarter out on the top portion that meets with the room and is in the weather stripping channel for the rear glass.
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Old 08-21-2016, 03:19 PM
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I think that's wise, moving on to the other side before finalizing the plan. Small torch and wooden stick for melting out the last of the lead. Most clean n strip discs take lead and braze off without harming the steel much. I prefer to jab a tool in the lead at the beginning and pry out the whole chunk that way. Since there's usually rust under it all, there's a good chance of just popping the lead off the metal.

Roof and drip rail replacement isn't as bad as a guy might think, especially if you buy drip rails. I hear you on damaged parts. Price roof skins before dismissing the idea.
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98camarod View Post
I'd honestly rather not remove the roof. I know I'd have to replace the rails as well because I'm sure I'd ruin them on the removal process. I'd also have to get another freight shipment and hope that this doesn't get damaged as one of my fenders and quarter panels did.
Freight damage is always a concern. I had an AMD 1 piece trunk floor shipped by UPS thru Summit and UPS did their damndest to destroy it. The 1 piece floor with all the braces is a pretty sturdy piece and all I had to do was unroll a couple corners to save it. When it came time to order the AMD quarter panels I called Summit and requested they be shipped common carrier. They refused and I told them they were gonna lose the sale. I then contacted RPC in AZ. Shipping was going to be $100 for 1 piece or 4, so I bought 2 sets of '66 Chevelle quarter skins, as I have 2 cars. They came common carrier in individual cartons with nary a scratch on them. Since I bought 4 pieces, RPC beat Summits price by $20 too so the shipping was only $5 each...

I guess the moral of that story is; shop around, there is more than 1 source to buy parts and some will take better care of you.
And the AMD trunk floor and quarter skins are the best fitting repro parts I've ever had ..
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:57 PM
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Hmm. I just did a quick search for the roof skin. Oh! They are double what a Camaro one costs. Sigh.

Alright then, time to get creative with patch work and make a save. Car has a cage so what the heck. Camarod, I use a big and sorta dull pick tool to do triage. If I can stab through a spot, that has to go. Clean up whats there best you can as far as you can under the roof.

I know TMP and myself will have ideas on how to patch things up once thats done and we can really see how its made and rotted exactly. For example, theres no reason you can't snip out some inner roof rail panel to access the outer if need be. Maybe plug weld some fresh steel over the goner areas from the inside. Doesn't have to look just like it did in these inner areas and you can play with posterboard to work out the shape of your patch ideas. Its your car so don't worry about making a wrong decision about how to do it.

Just stick with it
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:16 AM
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Well I sold all the extra metal that I had. The OE fenders, trunk lid and the busted quarter and fender they sent me. So I have extra money to do the roof if I decide. Is it acceptable to remove all the sheet metal without bracing since it has a cage? Or no because they are not "connected". I feel like with the previous repairs I'd be fighting the bull**** they did instead of working with new metal.

AMD is about 4 hours from me, so I may just go get the roof skin and drip rails.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2016, 06:21 AM
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I think if you leave one quarter screwed on at all times, and support the tail panel you'll be fine.
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
I think if you leave one quarter screwed on at all times, and support the tail panel you'll be fine.
I've never done a roof, but when I replaced the entire trunk floor and quarter skins on my '66, I tacked on a 1" tube from the inner wheel house to the tail panel for a little reassurance that it didn't sag. I only removed 1 side at a time though, as I am very cautious at this stuff.



Since you are going this far with the body, I'm going to back up some and ask how are the trunk pan mounts to frame and all the body bushings ?? If they need work or replacing, I would suggest doing that before all the panel work so you have a solid foundation and it is where it will stay.
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Old 08-23-2016, 06:58 AM
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Being only 4 hours from AMD would be very cool ..

I still suggest calling RPC in AZ to see if you can purchase the parts thru them at a discount and still pick them up at AMD as a will call. AMD won't sell below their MSRP to protect their distributors. The savings could pay for the gas.

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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2016, 07:03 AM
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If the trunk gutters are solid and are left in place it will have a tough time bending, in my opinion. Of course if the trunk drop-offs are not solid, or anything else in the area is rotted to a point of reduced structural integrity (like this Chevelle's roof rails may be), then bracing things somehow first would seem appropriate. It would be wise to take some 3D measurements first to assure it isn't braced with it crooked.
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