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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2016, 09:25 AM
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Thanks guys! I got the drivers quarter fit again to show the things I was talking about. The part where the tail light bolts go through only line up with one hole. Also, there is a large discrepancy at the bottom where the quarter meets the trunk drop off. I also mocked up the passenger quarter. There is about the same large gap for the trunk on both sides, but the drivers seems to fit nicer. I mounted the trunk so it was good gaps with the old fenders and height. The passenger fender is quite a bit higher. I haven't welded the package tray in yet either. My rear glass showed up on Saturday in a million pieces, so there's that. Any advice is welcome and appreciated!








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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2016, 09:58 AM
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Hmmm...normally, the tail light holes and trunk drops not aligning well on repro parts doesn't bother me, as they seldom do, BUT the right fender being higher than the left does bother me. If you put the largest bolt that will fit thru the q-p hole into the tail panel hole, thereby raising the q-p, do the fender heights align better ?
I would be setting the chassis plumb with a level and working off that to make certain the tail panel is even level with the frame. As much previous work as has been done, I wouldn't assume anything is right. Once the frame and tail panel are known to be level, measure the tail light mounting holes side to side to see if they are the same distance from the floor, or use a method such as IDJ showed in a previous reply by setting up a level work surface overhead to measure down to. You need some reference to work with to get all those panels on the same plane and fitting together.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2016, 12:48 PM
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Have you removed the gutters where the trunk weatherstrip goes? The pics are great but some are a little too close up to get the big picture. Are you replacing outer wheelhouses and if so do you have them and how do the quarters fit at the wheel openings? Don't get in a hurry to weld up the package tray, all this has to line up first. Too bad about the glass but that is more of a check than a fit-to thing. It just needs to fit when the rest is together with screws and properly gapped.

If the gutters are out the tail panel is probably sagging. Now is the time to get serious and start measuring the whole body. If you find something is off and remedy it, other problems may go away or their solutions may become more obvious. If you would like more suggestions about where and how to measure, pipe up. Just imagine it's a new and perfect but incomplete body on a solid jig and take control of the metal that's there.

Looks like the bottom corner of that new left quarter needs some gentle, general flattening out so it will go in and up some more. You're off to a good start but this is the critical stuff coming up. The welding should be cake but put on your patient hat and thick skin. You may have to be a little mean to the car to make it mind, ha ha. The severity varies and we'll be here to advise. Do study the Camaro pic with the ladder that I posted, that was an effective way to measure, for me.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2016, 07:05 PM
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I replaced the wheelhouses with the old quarters on it. I didn't originally play on doing the quarters, so I cut the lip off of the outer wheelhouse and welded it in all the way around. They fit good on the old quarters, granted that's the awesome previous work. That is also exactly why I didn't weld up the package tray. Before I did this, I remember researching and hearing guys say they have hours in fitting the quarters. Hell, they know what they are doing, so I can imagine how long it will take me.

I'm all ears for ideas on where and how to measure. I like the ladder idea as well. I'm going to need to do something like that since my garage floor was finished by one armed blind people in the rain.

I'm going to order the trunk drop off for the passenger side and patch in what I need. I'm going out of town this week so I won't get much time to work on it.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2016, 11:30 AM
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I got the car frame on jackstands and made the car level, lined up the holes for the tail light housings, adjusted the trunk to get it level and even down the quarters. I'm going to order the trunk drop downs and replace what I need. My new glass came in so I will test fit it and make sure that's good. What kind of clearance should it have? And any other pointers?








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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2016, 12:47 PM
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Pointers, you say? Man you've got that thing looking decent already as far as I can see from here. I'm not on the PC but what I see looks good on a small screen. Hope the leveling helped with that. Half or three quarter inch around the glass is about what's normal, just enough to work the clips plus a little. What to look for there is just even spacing all around the glass, and a level bed for it to lay on. But you want to be sure theres not any big gaps between the "bed" and the glass that the adhesive will have to make up. Sometimes the aftermarket curvature isn't just right.

At my work we took in a decent 69 Chevelle yesterday, it has all the glass out and stuff. So if you have any reference needs, I can look at it or measure stuff if you're patient.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2016, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Pointers, you say? Man you've got that thing looking decent already as far as I can see from here. I'm not on the PC but what I see looks good on a small screen. Hope the leveling helped with that. Half or three quarter inch around the glass is about what's normal, just enough to work the clips plus a little. What to look for there is just even spacing all around the glass, and a level bed for it to lay on. But you want to be sure theres not any big gaps between the "bed" and the glass that the adhesive will have to make up. Sometimes the aftermarket curvature isn't just right.

At my work we took in a decent 69 Chevelle yesterday, it has all the glass out and stuff. So if you have any reference needs, I can look at it or measure stuff if you're patient.
I put two fender spacers together and spaced the glass, it doesn't look like enough. For the trim clips, they pieces are all gone with the new pieces. Am I supposed to just screw in new clips? As for the gaps, they are close, but I'd like to get them closer haha
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2016, 01:25 PM
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Here is the glass in with the fender spacers. I think I need to move the trunk up a 1/4" to close the filler gap.

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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2016, 02:36 PM
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Like IDJ said, the gaps REALLY came in with all the leveling... The left trunk to q-p looks really close. You need to have about that much room for paint and still have a decent gap. The right side is a little wider, but you can maybe pull the q-p up and push it in a slightly to close that up some.

Rear window, no way to see the gap at that angle. How thick are the shims ? The trim clip studs are usually held on repro panels with screws and the clips them selves are only about 3/8ths thick, so 1/2" is OK. Lay the trim on and you'll have a good idea how much gap you have to work with.

As for moving the lid up, install the tail light extensions to see how the edge of the lid lines up with them first. Again, I can't judge the lid to glass extension gap at the angle of the pic, but it looks close...1/4" is pretty much minimum to allow for 3-4 coats of paint and 3-4 coats of clear. If single stage, you could close them up a little.
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Old 09-20-2016, 05:41 PM
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I'm still on the small screen but the glass gap I told you is too much. Half inch all around would be spacious. With the wide moldings theres lots of play. Yes to screws or rivets but I'd rather studs. Screws specifically for those are available, ask your clip supplier. I'll have a better pic study when I get home. You're working your way through this quite gracefully.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2016, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Like IDJ said, the gaps REALLY came in with all the leveling... The left trunk to q-p looks really close. You need to have about that much room for paint and still have a decent gap. The right side is a little wider, but you can maybe pull the q-p up and push it in a slightly to close that up some.

Rear window, no way to see the gap at that angle. How thick are the shims ? The trim clip studs are usually held on repro panels with screws and the clips them selves are only about 3/8ths thick, so 1/2" is OK. Lay the trim on and you'll have a good idea how much gap you have to work with.

As for moving the lid up, install the tail light extensions to see how the edge of the lid lines up with them first. Again, I can't judge the lid to glass extension gap at the angle of the pic, but it looks close...1/4" is pretty much minimum to allow for 3-4 coats of paint and 3-4 coats of clear. If single stage, you could close them up a little.
The shims are .265" thick between the two of them. I'll add the pics that I took of the gaps and with the tail light extensions on.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:13 PM
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2016, 08:16 PM
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I think you're right. Man thats lookin real good. For what its worth theres a lot of cars running around with awful mismatches at the back corners of the decklid. Go with your noggin because thats working so far. I can't spot trouble on the glass fit from here but if there was a major problem you'd have caught it and shown it. Probably not easy to get pics of but you're there so you be the judge of that.

Maybe get your moldings, clips, and fasteners and confirm fit by mocking up a few. Put some blocks of rubber under the glass to simulate the adhesive if you want to split hairs. Just so theres plenty of glass (say, 3/8 - 1/2") overlapping the bed all the way around and room for studs n clips too. The glass will break (probably shatter) if it touches metal anywhere except the molding itself after installation.

If you clean and look at whats left of any original window bed flanges, you might find arrows stamped into them. Those indicate "stud goes here".
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Old 09-20-2016, 08:31 PM
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Yup, looks like the lid could move up, but watch the body line 6" up, where it matches the housing too. It's usually a compromise on those 2 locations.

Can you move the trunk extension down any to gain clip room at the glass, or will that mess up the corner alignment for the trim ? IDJ has the best idea of obtaining the clips and do a mock-up for fitment of the glass.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2016, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Yup, looks like the lid could move up, but watch the body line 6" up, where it matches the housing too. It's usually a compromise on those 2 locations.
This. And...

Having the trunk weatherstrip installed and trunk latched is also important in finalizing gaps.
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