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700r4 mechanical to cable linkage
My linkage on my 87 chevy truck is sloppy. I can move the lever between the left most part of or R and rightmost part of N when in Overdrive gear.
Have had it be in netural when I thought it was in park and now check it by rocking the truck. Need to fix this before the truck rolls down hill. The adjustment bolt is rusted on tight and I expect it to break when removing it. So I am looking at new linkage and bushings or one of these nifty cable conversation kits. Anyone have experiences with them or made something yourself?
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I shot the adjustment bolt every friday night with "freezeoff" and let it sit overnight for the last 2 weekends. Put a rag on top of the exhaust as it is right below the bolt.
Will shoot it once again then take a torch to it to suck the penetrate into those threads but if it breaks I need to have a plan B. U bolt maybe? Plan on playing around with it this weekend. I know I can get the Lokar kit from summit and have it within 2-3 days(upper east Ohio to Mid Michigan). https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Lokar...mns,67551.html The thing that is keeping me from ordering it is that that cable will need to make a bend in around 8" of room with the cable having 1" of space from the heatshield on the bottom of the cab and the exhaust pipe going back to the single muffler. I know NAPA use to sell push pull aircraft cable. But it was one of those things where you needed to know part numbers before walking in. Looking at the Lokar kit I am thinking there has to be a cable one that follows the cab down bolting to the bell or and does not make that bend. Kind of hoping someone knows of one or has built one. Lokar also sells a mechanical linkage(at half the cost of the cable) which seems like it will work in the space that I have. It might hit the exhaust if the arm is to low but seems like my best option right now. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/l...SABEgKYBvD_BwE Open to recommendations or suggestions to avoid headaches and keep this simple fix a simple fix. This is what I am dealing with; No slop; ![]() A little slop here; ![]() And a massive amount of slop at the bolt. ![]() |
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Quote:
Keeping in mind your engine has rubber type motor and trans mounts for good reason they move a little bit with throttle burst or just every day driving habits. Certain mechanical levers and such parts need the movement space so they don't bind up when the mechanism is going about its job hence some have rubber grommets to take up some of the slack. Also look into what the condition is for the motor and trans mounts. |
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Had a list of had to's which got done and some want to's which this fell under.
Had to's that I have done over the last 8 months were Remove plow hardware Build rear bumper and rear frame stiffener Paint it one color Install newer grill and newer bezels Starting, charging, and spark system Fuel tank, pump, lines, relay, oil sensor, wiring Coolant, radiator, thermostat, cap, hoses, block heater Brakes, caliper/wheel cylinders, hardware, hoses, and lines Axle hubs, lockouts, seals, and bearings U joints Want to's that got done; A flatbed I built with headache rack Clean heating duct work Want to's that did not get done. Replace floor Install cable shift linkage Fix exhaust leak(s) It is a 3 year project. The thing is far better off then when I started 8 months ago. But I have a ways to go. For now I bent the rod a bit and it goes into and stays in park good. But it could be much better. Eventually I want a rod to replace my tilt column. Just a simple rod. no key, no turn signal, no nothing. That is all going on the dash which will be modified also. For now it is ok. Will let the snow fly for a few months and toss some more overtime money into the truck account then hit this thing running in the summer. Hopefully inside a new house with a 2 stall. |
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