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Old 10-17-2019, 01:49 PM
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Question 700r4 swap

I have a 84 Monte Carlo with a 350 in it currently has a turbo 350 I was looking for info on donor cars that would be good candidates for the 700 R4 thank you

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Old 10-17-2019, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ray6914 View Post
I have a 84 Monte Carlo with a 350 in it currently has a turbo 350 I was looking for info on donor cars that would be good candidates for the 700 R4 thank you
You want the 1987 to 1992 version, these have all the fixes and thete were many.

You also need the throttle linkage and brackets as the 700R4 uses cable operated mechanical modulation with kick down as one integrated system where the TH350 uses vacuum modulation and mechanical kick down as two seperate systems. Installation instructions are on the web, they need to be explicitly followed or you smoke its guts faster than you can read this.

You'll have to deal with rear mount and driveshaft when you get there, usually minor mods to the mount and driveshaft shortening are in order.

Given that most wrecking yard 700R4's and 4L60's (not the same as 4L60E) have their best years behind them, just buying a rebuilt is in the long run less expensive. To that vain you want something more erformance oriented to insure you're getting a late production model with beefed up parts added.

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Old 10-18-2019, 05:30 AM
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Okay thank you for all the information
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Old 10-18-2019, 07:43 AM
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200-4R trans is a bolt-in swap, as that is what overdrive Chevy put in the Monte SS. No driveshaft mods, minor crossmember mods(crossmember moved back in frame).

It is a better trans too, especially when built up. Better gear ratio's.

The 700R4 is overrated, in stock form it doesn't have very good durability if you make decent power, and that ultra low 1st gear is awful for any real performance build.

If you want a super strong overdrive, do a 4L80 swap...it is basically an overdrive TH-400.
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Old 10-18-2019, 10:50 PM
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Yeah the SS 305 made a whopping 180 horsepower.

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Old 10-19-2019, 01:20 AM
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Get an 87-93 chevy truck. Rolled or just rusted to heck.

Pull the 305/350, 700r4, 10 bolt with 3.08-3.73 rear(4.11/4.56 more 3/4&1ton).

Pull the computer saving the harness or buy a plug and play harness off the net for around $300.

Upgraded everything with a bit more hp and fuel injection.
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Old 12-04-2019, 03:09 PM
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No expert here, but if possible I would just swap a 4l60e or something in that series with computer adapter, they seem to shift smoother from my personal experience.
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Old 12-05-2019, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
200-4R trans is a bolt-in swap, as that is what overdrive Chevy put in the Monte SS. No driveshaft mods, minor crossmember mods(crossmember moved back in frame).

It is a better trans too, especially when built up. Better gear ratio's.

The 700R4 is overrated, in stock form it doesn't have very good durability if you make decent power, and that ultra low 1st gear is awful for any real performance build.

If you want a super strong overdrive, do a 4L80 swap...it is basically an overdrive TH-400.
X2 on the 200R4 it doesn't have the 1-2 Rpm drop the 700R4's do and swapping it would be easier.
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Old 12-05-2019, 06:13 PM
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I'll say 200R4 all day long. Easy swap and these guys send you EVERYTHING you need to plug this trans into your car.
Trans Depot for a full install kit. Do the Stage 1 and you will never break it.
https://www.transdepot.net/2004R-Sta...age_p_412.html
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Old 12-10-2019, 03:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
200-4R trans is a bolt-in swap, as that is what overdrive Chevy put in the Monte SS. No driveshaft mods, minor crossmember mods(crossmember moved back in frame).

It is a better trans too, especially when built up. Better gear ratio's.

The 700R4 is overrated, in stock form it doesn't have very good durability if you make decent power, and that ultra low 1st gear is awful for any real performance build.

If you want a super strong overdrive, do a 4L80 swap...it is basically an overdrive TH-400.
Regarding the 200r4 as it came from the factory.
Does the torque converter lock, or does it need a modification/replacement? Is there an advantage to the lockup for a cruiser/driver?
I have a base 350 crate of 2000-2005 vintage, low power (250hp?), TH350, 3.42 posi rear.
Just a cruiser, looking for some better gas mileage, currently ~11mpg.
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Old 12-10-2019, 04:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob37pont View Post
Regarding the 200r4 as it came from the factory.
Does the torque converter lock, or does it need a modification/replacement? Is there an advantage to the lockup for a cruiser/driver?
I have a base 350 crate of 2000-2005 vintage, low power (250hp?), TH350, 3.42 posi rear.
Just a cruiser, looking for some better gas mileage, currently ~11mpg.
200-4R stock converters are lock-up, and you can get a simple vacuum operated aftermarket lock-up kit to control it in a hot rod application(Painless Wiring is the one I've used before, but there are others too,). You can also have a stall converter made to eliminate the lock-up feature if you want.
The lock-up might result in a +1 mpg gain...if you cruise it several hundred miles at a time. Just average 100 mile or less round trip cruising it won't show much gain at all.

What rear tire diameter do you have, so we can figure RPM @ 60 MPH??

This is important for the fact that if you get cruise RPM's too low with an overdrive the engine will get just as poor mileage as it would turning a lot of RPM without an overdrive.

3.42 isn't a lot of gear, rpm at cruise without overdrive shouldn't be all that much above 2400 rpm, if that. I'd say you need to look at ignition timing and carb tune before you need to look to an overdrive.
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Old 12-10-2019, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
200-4R stock converters are lock-up, and you can get a simple vacuum operated aftermarket lock-up kit to control it in a hot rod application(Painless Wiring is the one I've used before, but there are others too,). You can also have a stall converter made to eliminate the lock-up feature if you want.
The lock-up might result in a +1 mpg gain...if you cruise it several hundred miles at a time. Just average 100 mile or less round trip cruising it won't show much gain at all.

What rear tire diameter do you have, so we can figure RPM @ 60 MPH??

This is important for the fact that if you get cruise RPM's too low with an overdrive the engine will get just as poor mileage as it would turning a lot of RPM without an overdrive.

3.42 isn't a lot of gear, rpm at cruise without overdrive shouldn't be all that much above 2400 rpm, if that. I'd say you need to look at ignition timing and carb tune before you need to look to an overdrive.
Tires are 235/70 R15, 28". I actually have a tach coming from a friend this weekend. Just researching my options.
Timing & carb are good.
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Old 12-10-2019, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob37pont View Post
Tires are 235/70 R15, 28". I actually have a tach coming from a friend this weekend. Just researching my options.
Timing & carb are good.
You might want to use the "CHAT" feature for advice here this company is used by a lot of builders they have almost any part you would need. https://transmissioncenter.net/produ...ategory=200-4r
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Old 12-10-2019, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob37pont View Post
Tires are 235/70 R15, 28". I actually have a tach coming from a friend this weekend. Just researching my options.
Timing & carb are good.
If timing and carb were indeed good, I'd expect a non-overdrive combination like that to get 16-18+ MPG on its own.
My guess is carb is too rich on idle and transition circuits, as that is what it'll be running on at your cruise rpm and throttle opening amount.

Timing should be 12-16° initial, about 34-36°Total mechanical all in by 3000 rpm or so, and 12-18° added by a vacuum advance.
If you are running minus a vacuum advance, that is what happened to most of your gas mileage. It is super important for mileage.
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Old 12-10-2019, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
If timing and carb were indeed good, I'd expect a non-overdrive combination like that to get 16-18+ MPG on its own.
My guess is carb is too rich on idle and transition circuits, as that is what it'll be running on at your cruise rpm and throttle opening.
My S15 with fuel injection on a 350 wouldn't get that type mileage except on I-5 where it's pretty flat between Tacoma, Wa and Eugene, Or.

When first built with a factory spec LT1 it hit 24 on that stretch, but when replaced with with Frankenmouse and more cam it never saw the high side of 18 and that took hanging at 70 and avoiding rush hour traffic in the cities. That's keeping it in 4th lock up at not over 2000 rpm. With a carb and no other changes except intake and fuel pressure that falls to 15 mpg with the Edelbrock.

Go into the mountains on I-90 and your reward is about 13 mpg.



Bogie
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