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Old 09-15-2016, 02:01 PM
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71 camaro front clip control arms

I have a 71 Camaro front clip on my 39 Chevy master deluxe and was wanting to bring the tires closer to the center of the car ,like about an inch or inch and half. What other make of G.M. car/truck control arms can I use to do that. I cannot shorten/narrow the frame or exchange front clips as it is already complete. I can get a little bit by swapping wheels but only about half inch.

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Old 09-15-2016, 06:03 PM
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You'll have to do uppers and lowers and therefore lots of other changes to the front end geometry are gonna happen so you might want to look at making your own from scratch. It's some planning and work and more planning but very doable. Bolt in or screw in ball joints will make things way easier to fabricate.
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:29 PM
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I have a friend that drilled the holes for the lower control arms inward 3/4 inch which brought the lower control arms in.

On the uppers he ground the welds off on the top hats that hold the upper control arms and moved them in 3/8 of an inch and re-welded them. He then used an extra 3/8 stack of shims on the upper mounts which narrowed the upper and lowers each 3/4 inch or a total of 1 1/2 overall.

He did this to a rear steer 72 Nova sub. I suspect it could be done to the gen two but you would have to check and decide that for yourself.

John
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Old 09-16-2016, 04:19 AM
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Changing suspension arms or attach points without also changing the steering linkage to match is just asking for handling problems.
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Old 09-16-2016, 08:42 AM
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1970-1981 Chevrolet Camaro GTECH Control Arms - Fat Man Fabrication


Available in stock or 1” narrowed per side widths for tire clearance for fatter fires

Copied directly; I'm sure they meant tires, not fires.

There are no other stock a-arms that can be directly bolted in, as noted previously the originals can be sectioned around, but it gets complicated due to stamping shapes. The Fatman Fabrications parts are probably your most-simple answer, for a few bucks of-course. Probably the stock tie rods will accommodate the difference or can have a little cut off the ends.
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kso View Post
Probably the stock tie rods will accommodate the difference or can have a little cut off the ends.
The issue isn't tie rod length. It's location of the inner pivot points and how that affects bump steer over the suspension travel. It's very easy to screw up the steering geometry.
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_padavano View Post
The issue isn't tie rod length. It's location of the inner pivot points and how that affects bump steer over the suspension travel. It's very easy to screw up the steering geometry.
Using a slightly-shorter a-arm set effectively moves the outer pivots in, while retaining the position of the inner pivots. Adjusting the tie rod to like-amount shorter, same. So, we're good.

Anyhow with the GM setup of having the tie rod at the same height as lower a-arm, affecting bump steer by narrowing the track any reasonable amount via cutting or re-fabbing the a-arms and re-adjusting the tie rod will not happen. If you were to go re-drilling the lower a-arm mounts inward very far and moving the upper a-arm pivots also as has been suggested, you would theoretically need to use a like-amount narrower drag link (S-10's are around 3" shorter) and space the steering box in half that. All tough to do when there's an engine in there that needs room, so when we only need a couple inches' narrowing total, a-arms/tie rods are where to get it and there'll be no geometry issues.
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Old 09-16-2016, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_padavano View Post
Changing suspension arms or attach points without also changing the steering linkage to match is just asking for handling problems.
Joe is correct of course. I believe Melvin shortened the center link slightly which kept the geometry correct. I would have to check with him to be absolutely positive.

John
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