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Old 11-10-2013, 12:00 PM
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acrylic urethane

With these one step paints , I'm thinking of a dark pearl,
is the shade darken or lightened with the base?
Thanks Pat

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Old 11-10-2013, 02:30 PM
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Can you try to explain your question or intentions a little more. With the single stage systems (acrylic enamel, single stage urethane, etc) the pearl is mixed inthe color and there is no "base" color. Base color is used when using a basecoat clearcoat 2 or 3 stage system.

Kelly
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Old 11-10-2013, 02:51 PM
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Yes, please explain your intentions, what is it that your trying to achieve? Is your question, will pearls darken or lighten the color or is your question will the shade of the substrate effect the pearl in the top coat?

Ray
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Old 11-10-2013, 02:56 PM
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Also, If you are going to be using a pearl or metallic color, I would recommend using a BC/CC system instead of SS anyway. It is easier to control metallic and pearls in BC/CC and when you color sand and buff you will not disturb of change the look of the pearls.

Kelly
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Old 11-10-2013, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
Can you try to explain your question or intentions a little more.
Kelly
I just want a down and dirty color change,wet sand the yellow and white and shoot.
Will those base colors show through? If so I'll shoot a solid enamel.
Thanks Pat
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Old 11-10-2013, 04:37 PM
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If you are changing the color of that car, to do it properly you will have to take it completely apart to get all of the jambs and areas covered. After going to that much trouble I would take it down to bare and start back with epoxy and then paint it so you know what you have when you are done and don't have to worry about it falling off in a few months.

However, If the current paint is in good condition and if you want to sand the paint on the car and shoot it a different color you would need to seal that paint with a quality sealer prior to spraying the color you have chosen or you will have more problems than you want to think about. You will still need to partially disassemble the car to do anyhting close to a decent job on the jambs and other hard to reach areas. Hope that helps?

Kelly
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:07 PM
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Hey Pat, i can understand that you don't like Yellow and White for color on a car but, I have a question. The paint on your car looks fairly fresh...do you know how old it is, what kind of paint is on the car now (Acrylic Enamel...with or without hardner...Acrylic Urethane)? It may make a difference as what your next steps are.

I now understand your original question. If I'm correct, you where asking if the the Yellow and White will show through the new color that your applying. You mentioned a dark pearl color...usually dark colors don't have the "candy effect" as much as light colors and once you have full coverage, neither Yellow or White should show through.

Depending on what type of paint is on your car now, you may be able to paint right over top and change the color. Kelly is right though, for a better job, painting parts of the vehicle (door jambs, under the deck lid, underneath the hood etc.) with the pieces off would give you a much better finish and again, depending on what the paint is that's on it now, a coat of reduced SPI Epoxy may be a good idea.

Hope this helps Pat

Ray
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:51 PM
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It is fresh

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Hey Pat, i can understand that you don't like Yellow and White for color on a car but, I have a question. The paint on your car looks fairly fresh...do you know how old it is, what kind of paint is on the car now (Acrylic Enamel...with or without hardner...Acrylic Urethane)? It may make a difference as what your next steps are.
Ray
Ray thanks

I know I'm off base somewhat, its like asking if I can get by with duct tape and baling wire on my exhaust.
If these colors were real yellow and Ivory I'd leave it. But it looks like a pile of yellow snow topped off with a 1949
Hot Point refergerator.
This paint is fresh, I could smell acrylic enamel when I bought it, had 117 mi. on the odometer. I've used acrylic enamel on motor cycles, it smelled the same. However I've never used urethane. Anyway to tell the diff? I can't get the owner to call me back about the paint. Hope he didn't use some kind of weird wax on it, don't think it's been waxed.
I stripped the paint off the seam in the hood to weld it up.
The yellow is thick, two layers?, grey primer, original light teal paint and primer. If this was a bike, 2 fenders and a tank, I'd get out the naval jelly, and go to work in the shop. The car wont fit, it's got rust issues, the $'s are going to mechanical stuff first.
But I am off the metallic and pearl, thinking " mid night blue". I shot metallic gold on my triumph- forgot about the run I had.
Thanks for the help
Pat
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Old 11-11-2013, 09:01 AM
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Yes Pat, your analogy of the exhaust repair is correct...it's very difficult to give advice without all the information....but, lets see what we can do.

First of all, we aren't sure what type of paint it is, secondly, we don't know if the person that painted the car used a catalyst in the top coat and third....it already has been repainted without being stripped (The light teal color under the yellow) and we don't know type of paint that was. Admittedly, the car has rust issues, also, we don't have a heated shop to get the vehicle into to get the required work done....quite a few strikes against us to get a good finish.

First of all and again, if this is a car that you really like, it should be taken down to bare metal and have a solid substrate applied....if this is an option, let us know and we can walk you through the proper steps.

If not, we need to determine if the paint on the car can be safely used as a substrate. You mentioned that you stripped some paint off of the hood to do a repair, that area will need to be repainted regardless so....if you use a piece of towel, put some lacquer thinner on it and let it sit on a sanded area of the painted surface for about 5 minutes (not a large towel, something quite small and it wouldn't need to be on the hood, any inconspicuous spot on the car would work) and see if it lifts, wrinkles, takes color and transfers it from the car too the towel...if it does, there is a good chance that the paint on the car is not a paint that has had a catalyst mixed in prior to painting and the possibility is great that a paint with aggressive solvents such as Base Coats, Acrylic Enamel or Acrylic Urethane will do the same thing when applied over top...and the car would need to be stripped in order to use one of those products.

If the thinner doesn't attack the original surface, chances are you have a paint product that has had a catalyst used and may work as a substrate for another paint job (still not what I would recommend or prefer but possible). If this is the case, the car could be block sanded with 320 grit and a product like SPI's Epoxy primer (reduced between 10% and 30% with correct reducers) should be used as a barrier coat between the original Yellow and White paint and the new top coat (I use the word barrier coat because I hate the word sealer and never use sealers myself. To me, sealer is like cheating or fooling a top coat into thinking that the substrate is durable). By doing this, you can choose between several different shades of primer from White to Black (and Grays in between) and a Red Oxide color of Epoxy to use as your ground coat and achieve better and more consistent coverage with your new top coat.

Pat, this is by no means the way I would paint a vehicle for a customer or for that matter, anything I really liked...it is however an accepted "bandaide" method for you to achieve what your after without going through the process of taking everything to zero and doing it all 100% properly.

I hope this helps, and if you need more information, let me know.

Ray
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