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Old 03-27-2019, 08:37 PM
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Alignment on my 1938 olds

Hello I took my 1938 Oldsmobile business coupe in today for a 4 wheel alignment I have a heidts mustang 2 frount end and a Ridetech triangulated 4 long in the rear with coil overs .

My questions are the car drives fine tell 65 ish and the faster you go it vibrates more.

I have new 275/40/17 tires all the way around and I drive down the freeway and I felt the vibration and slowed down.
I took the car back to the tire place and had the tires rebalanced and I drove it again and at the same speeds it still does it. .
Here is a pic of the alignment they did for some reason they put 4 deg of caster in the frount end .
Does that sound right ?
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Old 03-28-2019, 06:20 AM
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OK, I'll start.
Is this a new build?
If not, did you have these issues before alignment?
Is the vibration in the steering wheel, or through the body?
If body, may be an issue with motor/trans mounts or driveshaft balance/u-joint angles.
Increased caster would give you better straight line tracking.
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Old 03-28-2019, 08:35 AM
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Sorry I should of put that in also it’s the first time it’s been out on the freeway over 60 it has a new drive lone and joints and I set the tail shaft of the transmission down 3 deg and the pinion angle up 3 deg I feel it I. The wheel but I feel like it’s more in the seat thank you kelly
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:51 PM
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I went to the alignment shop today they drove it and is like I said it drives you at higher speeds so Im going to take it back in next week and they are going to look to see why it could be that way.

Now it has a vibration at 30 ish to 40 then stops that feels in the wheel and seat and starts again at 55 ish and gets worse the faster you go.

So today while it was on the lift at the muffler shop I went to the rear yolk on the rear end and I was able to push up on the yolk and it moved 1/8 up and its howeling Under power and off power also.

So I thank the pinion bearings are starting to go out.

Would that cause the lower speeds vibrations ?
Im really sure it causing the high speeds one .

Also with the power trax no slip their is a lot of slop in the set up
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Old 04-03-2019, 10:58 PM
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I was trying to put in a video of it but if you goto utube and put in power Trax no slip problems it will show what Im taking about
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Old 04-03-2019, 11:43 PM
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Driveshaft/u-joint/yoke vibrations will come and go as a factor of shaft rpm....not uncommon for you to get a lower rpm vibration, drive through it and it will go away, keep accelerating and it comes back worse then the first. What you describe sure sounds more like a driveline vibe than a wheel/tire vibe.

fix that rear yoke/gear/bearing problem and reevaluate the situation.

That trans 3 down and the rear pinion a matching 3 up can also be a problem....the pinion nose climbs under power putting the nose angle off line.

Typical set-up is to put the pinion angle down from 2 to 5-6 compared to the trans angle, depending on how powerful the engine is, and what the rear suspension is.

Examples: 4-bar or 4-link with hiem ends(ball rod ends) which has little flex, just 1-2 pinion down compared to trans
Ladder bar, 2-3
4-bar, triangulated 4-link with bushed ends 2-3 if Teflon or urethane, 3-4 if rubber bushed.
Leaf springs, 4-7+ depending on leaf length and engine power, these change angle the most under acceleration

If this is a cut-down factory driveshaft they can be very problematic too....rarely is a factory shaft very good for straightness or runout.
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Old 04-04-2019, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
That trans 3 down and the rear pinion a matching 3 up can also be a problem....the pinion nose climbs under power putting the nose angle off line.

Typical set-up is to put the pinion angle down from 2 to 5-6 compared to the trans angle, depending on how powerful the engine is, and what the rear suspension is.

Examples: 4-bar or 4-link with hiem ends(ball rod ends) which has little flex, just 1-2 pinion down compared to trans
Ladder bar, 2-3
4-bar, triangulated 4-link with bushed ends 2-3 if Teflon or urethane, 3-4 if rubber bushed.
Leaf springs, 4-7+ depending on leaf length and engine power, these change angle the most under acceleration.
The above is all true and can be verified by reading the book Doorslammers, The Chassis Book, by Dave Morgan.
https://www.amazon.com/COMP-Cams-158...WM8SHK0PB671NJ

Also, you can learn a great deal by reading the Education Zone, from the engineers at Inland Empire Driveline......
https://www.iedls.com/#Power_Train
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Old 04-04-2019, 10:30 PM
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It has a ride tech triangulated 4 link.
I not sure but I thank they are urathane bushings I look at their sight now they have a rjoint style.

I’ve found a rebuild kit for 150 at Napa minus the axel bearings and carieir bearings and no ring and pinion.

I have never rebuilt a rearend before I’ve seen a few videos do I really need the gauge to check pinion preload I thank its Called?

Had to cancel the alignment shop appointment for them to check to see what is possible causing the car to drive me at higher speeds my boss wouldn’t let me get off early one day to get the car their before they close.

Any pointers or wisdom on the rear end rebuild ?
Thank you kelly
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Old 04-04-2019, 11:09 PM
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I also forgot the drive line shop replaced the tube and balanced it.
Thanks kelly
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Old 04-05-2019, 04:35 AM
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What rear axle do you have??

$150 seems steep for inner pinion bearing, outer pinion bearing, and both bearing races, a pinion seal, pinion nut, crush sleeve, pinion shims, marking compound and a cover gasket

For example, Randy's Ring and Pinion has the 8.5" GM 10-bolt Pinion Bearing kit, which has everything you need except the rear cover gasket, USA Standard Bearings, for $69
7.5" rear a little more at $90
Ford 8" or9" as ow as $88

If you've got decent feel for how bearings should feel, you don't strictly need an inch-pound torque wrench to set bearing preload...but I wouldn't recommend a rookie going by feel unless you are a machinist or die maker or something along those lines, or an regular dealership or garage mechanic with good skills.
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Old 04-05-2019, 07:42 AM
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Another question
So what I’m seeing is the pinion bearing has to be pressed off and on and the whims goes between the bearing and pinion
So the bearing will have to be pressed off and on Tel I get the right tracking pattern

Last edited by 38 old coupe; 04-05-2019 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 04-05-2019, 07:44 AM
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It’s a 10 bolt 7.625 2.32 ring and pinion hears
In a union carpenter by trade
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Old 04-05-2019, 08:32 AM
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Wow i should of had my glasses on and dang auto correct sorry
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Old 04-05-2019, 08:53 AM
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Should be able to press off the current inner pinion bearing, re-use the current shim(or replace with new of same thickness if it gets mangled in the removal process, and come out with the same pattern on reassembly since you aren't changing the gears.

Bearings are supposed to be dimensionally interchangeable, shim is just used to match the gearset pinion depth to how close the housing's machining tolerance accuracy is to the blueprint theoretical carrier/differential/axle centerline.

With as much slop as you indicated in the current pinion bearings, you may find the oil full enough of trash bearing metal to also have hurt the other bearings, the carrier side and axle shaft end bearings, and the axle shaft bearing surface itself. I would definitely disassemble and inspect before buying any parts, as you may end up needing full bearing kit.

I never have understood why so many of the street rod crowd are using that crummy, weak 7.5/7.625" rear end.....is it just my hot street/race mentality vs their cruiser needs and lower focus on HP??
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Old 04-05-2019, 12:17 PM
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For me It came with the car and was the rite track width and all I did was pozzie it.

I have a Ford 9” that has to be cut down and the disk brake conversion and a possible unit needed.
I’ve been doing as much as I can to it I told the wife I’m driving it this year. It’s been 15 years off and on when time and money permits.

If it’s a quick bandaid for right now tell I can do the 9”
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