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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2006, 10:07 PM
 
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I would never use all-metal, thats what the rip-off body shops use to try and make a fast job. Or so my auto-body teacher says. Dura-glass all the way, I myself use Marglass. And if you put enough pressure into it, you can get it to go anywhere. (pinholes etc) Prep the metal w/ a 24 grit grinder. Just dont grind so much to where you actually shrink the metal. Then once you get the dura-glass shaped, you can spread regular body putty.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2007, 05:24 AM
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do the water test and you will make up your own mind--- also the allmetal shrinks and contracts at a closer rate to metal then the glass product for less shrinkage. I don't think a ripoff shop would use a product that actually costs more than lesser expensive duraglass but who knows.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2007, 07:19 AM
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It is really up to you what you do. If you plan on applying it that thick, the expansion rate should not really apply. Since it would be that thick, the metal is going to respond to temperature changes alot faster than anything you apply. They can call it "All Metal", but in fact, it isn't! If it was metal, the only way you could spread it is if it was "molten".

You have very good advise from Bob, Kenseth, and MartinSr. They have been doing this stuff a long time. I think Bob started when the Model T was still running the road, and really knows his stuff.

If the area is going to be freshly blasted I would shoot some epoxy on it before applying filler. I would not sand it with a DA before that, as it is an ideal surface for adheasion.

Aaron
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2007, 11:58 PM
 

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hey guys I Just posted some pics on my gallery If anyone wants to take a look Thanks again
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 11:02 AM
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I just looked at the photos. Man that is a big project. I sure hope that everything fits together right when you are done, doing it that way. I would not have cut off both quarters at the same time, specially with the rear of the car hanging that way, and no apparent bracing to keep stuff where it is supposed to be.

Aaron
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2007, 01:26 PM
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twisted bird

i agree with adkart, throw the doors back in at least and align them with rocker gap and quarter gap and if it is a vent window car align windshield post also .also you can take diagonal cross measurements from a similar car. then add some bracing from cowl to the back and you might save yourself a big batch of problems. good luck rodnik i just did the same to a 65 gto convert but one piece at a time.
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Old 01-07-2007, 02:45 PM
 

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Thanks guys, the doors are on the car, and they fit really good, what i think saved me is that on the convertibles their is an inner frame on the qaurter panels so i was able to aline everything with that. As with doing the car one peice at a time I would agree thats the right way to go. But i baught the car with everything off already. I got the car mainly cause it came with most the parts such as Nos tail panel, both inner and outer wheele wells, 2 NOS fenders all new front bushings and disc brakes. Also the car had very solid rocker panels. Plus a just recently got back onto the project. I guess i started it about a year ago, worked on it for around 2 months then i did my blue ventura restoration, then the green lemans restoration now im back onto the firebird
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Old 01-07-2007, 05:50 PM
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Have you installed the suspension and all related body parts to check for fit? It is a Uni-body car, so the weight of the body on the suspension will normally have a big effect on the fit of the body parts. The internal bracing of the quarter may hold things in the gerneral area, but cannot be counted on to keep it in the right place.

I have seen guys in collision shops remove a rear wheel when doing a quarterpanel, and support the vehicle at a frame rail. When the vehicle is put back on all four wheels, the vehicle is not straight, and the panels don't fit properly.

Just a word of warning.

Aaron
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Old 01-07-2007, 08:52 PM
 

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Good point, but when the car didnt have the rear on It was supported bye the back end of the rocker panels, and now its sitting on all 4 wheels with all the suspension in place and the doors still alighn nicely
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2007, 05:58 PM
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I hope everything works out for you, doing it that way. I just wanted to warn you that it isn't a good way to do it, as there are many opportunities for the car to "reject" the parts. Supporting the body on the rockers does not simulate the weight, and pressures that are applied to the frame rails in the rear, with the suspension loaded. In actuality, it is the exact opposite, as there is no pressure pushing up, but the weight is pulling down on the structure. Being a uni-body vehicle, the quarterpanel, besides being an outer panel, also helps support the suspension.

Aaron
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2007, 12:56 AM
 
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If your going to use the "all-metal" you will be eating up sandpaper, the hardner used is the same as used in fibreglass resin. Go for the short-strand filler. Mar-glass or ever-coat, both good products. These will save you some time when it comes down to rough cut shape, you will top coat all of that fill with a decent liteweight filler, then also a polyester finish glaze. Next course would be prepping up for primer, take your time and find all your imprefections so your not chasing them down as you get close to paint, enjoy what your doing, you'll be proud of your hard work!!
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2007, 01:49 AM
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Hey guys I don't agree with all the bondo. or my age group bondo bucket.
If you can't get with in the 1/4" window its a bondo bucket. My son's truck was done this way what a mess to fix. I went out and got new panels. So much easer that all the bondo and sanding work. It may seem easer but its not.

I use as little as possible its a metal car not a plastic car.

Craig
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2007, 09:02 PM
 

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Hey guys I made the decisoin i went with Dura-Glass, I figured it would be alot faster then All-metal and probably about the same qaulity. I posted some pics on my project journal on how it came out
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