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Marvin, what industrial waterborne clear are you using?
You might want to try a waterborne product called 'Diamond Clear". It's a single stage moisture cured urethane (MCU), and is VERY hard.
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Thanks for posting this info and pics and thanks to RunninOnEmpty for the paint tip as well. Some day we just might find a workable alternative to get stuff looking like chrome. So I really like to see that folks are still experimenting and then sharing their findings.
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here its my limited work so far I am very close to produce process anybody could reproduce with hardware store chemicals(except silver nitrate ofcourse, unless you are like me and make silver nitrate with nitric acid and scrap silver to make things even cheaper) here its my home made silvering gun: cost about 30$ top ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() here its Alsa Chrome FX chroming gun: cost(walther pilot's price 1,400$) ![]() ![]() ![]() and here its my home made silvering chemicals(different from the basic tollen's reagent but based on it basic principles) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKq39K3fmOY here tollen's reagent just for reference http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUX_cpFWNso |
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dAMN...THATS AMAZING. Please do a formal write up for us on your system. This may not work for exterior stuff in terms of durability, but perhaps trim parts on dishboards etc would make good use of it
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http://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondf...clearcoat.html Marvin, if you're using a floor poly that's 1 part and waterbased, chances are it's also an MCU. The problem with the floor coatings is that they tend to yellow and fade, due to no UV inhibitors in the mix. They're very hard however. (I too am interested in waterbased clears.) Keep up the chrome work, and keep us informed..... |
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![]() Last edited by nicamarvin; 02-03-2011 at 04:13 PM. |
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(KBS's tech sheet says to reduce with KBS#1 and clean-up with lacquer thinner.) My mistake and thanks for correcting it. ![]() |
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![]() I believe the best coating to protect that shine on wheel reems its Clear Powder coat, second place would be a Moisture-cured Epoxy/Urethane clear coat with UV blockers, and in third place would be a 2k Urethane automotive clear coat wich its easier and cheaper alternative to the previous coatings but offers abit less durability... Last edited by nicamarvin; 02-04-2011 at 09:00 AM. |
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Alsa Paint sucks period
I normally spray my cars with HOK paints, always had good results with them. So I have no Idea why I decide to try ALSA paints. On there web site all the Car are beautiful, but this is a scam. Ive been painting Cars since 1988 and the worst paint I ever use was ALSA Pearl Base Color. The coverage sucks. It took 5-qt with reducer to do a 75 vette. And it still was a bleed Thur. With No help from Alsa's Tech Dept. I Called 5 times and was suppose to recevie call backs. With No help. And I heard that there Chrome Paints are even worst. In the final, I sanded all that sh*# off, and repainted with House Of Kolor, Org/ using only two qts. And I was good. Don't take a chance with theses guys unless you have money to waste. Products suck, the there Business & Warehouse are full of *******s.
Mrbrucey....Bruce......Chicago ![]() ![]() |
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Just wanted to add to this discussion on the Killer Cans. I build plastic models and recently bought 7 cans of their Killer paint and clears plus the Killer Chrome. After almost a years worth of work on 2 of my models I then prepped them for paint according to their guidelines. Well, the paint went on nice other than wasting half of it because of the wide spray pattern. Then it was time for the chrome and as directed I applied it and it came out OK but nowhere near it should have been for the price. Here comes the horror story. I then applied the Lightling Clear which came out beautiful but 3 weeks later it started cracking like ice. On the other model, I had to buy more clear but they replaced the Lighting Clear with Mirra Clear. Talking to Alsa on the phone, their technician told me it was compatible with the paint I already had on the body which was their paint anyway. Applying a couple mist coats then a nice wet coat turned my model and paint into mush. Now I have to models that are ruined.
Now here's the good and most important part. After contacting Alsa, they said they would replace the clear for me but not the paint since their paint was good. What good is clear without paint and why would I chance putting their clear on some other brand of paint? I have been painting for over 30 years hobby wise and have never had something like this happen. I'm not a master painter but I do know what I'm doing and I can tell you to stay away from their clear. Oh, I almost forgot, after I had sprayed the Lightning Clear and waited a week I then masked off where I needed to spray the Killer Chrome with liquid masking and drafting tape. When removing the masking after applying the Chrome, some of the clear peeled off with the tape. Here's a few pics of what happened... ![]() Lightning clear after sitting for 3 weeks. Picture is looking through microscope ![]() MirraClear over 3 week old paint. Just wanted to let others know what may happen if they use this stuff. |
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I´m working on my own(made by myself) chrome like paint for custom paints, and so far it has none of the chrome like paint weakness, like it wont crack over time, it wont fade if left uncleared, the effect wont change if cleared.. here some pics so far... ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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