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Old 07-30-2017, 04:04 PM
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Aluminum Enhanced Body Fillers

Aluminum enhanced body fillers, Are they really worth using and which brand is best?

I found these three. Metal 2 Metal be evercoat, All Metal by USC & Metal Fuzion by Cargroom. Besides the prices is there a whole lot of a difference between them?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Evercoat-Met...kAAOSwe~dTxm2S

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USC-All-Meta...cAAOSwPe1UCexS

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Chemical-...72.m2749.l2649
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Last edited by HotRodRick; 07-30-2017 at 04:34 PM.
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Old 07-30-2017, 04:45 PM
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I do not think aluminum reinforced fillers are worth using. I have used the two on the left, didn't like either one as a body filler. Odds are, any repairs made using them are less than proper. Personally, any time I discover some on a job about 80-90% of those have rust underneath. My advice to you if you do go this route is to buy the freshest product available within your range of choices. The products are never great sellers and often go bad on the shelf.
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Old 07-30-2017, 05:07 PM
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They're not any good then for filling in the tiny pin holes that were found after grinding down weld spots? I'm just wondering what would be best to use to cover over the pin holes to make them sealed / water proof? Would a fiberglass filler be better like duraglass etc?
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Old 07-30-2017, 05:43 PM
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Not meaning to be a bodywork snob but I weld those up and call it touch up welding. It's part of the welding task in my opinion. No light may pass through or I haven't done my job. For pinholes like you mentioned, any filler will do about the same. So if the time for welding has passed, just use whatever filler you use elsewhere. If these are more like paper clip or pencil lead sized holes, maybe a reinforced filler could be justifiable but I don't think results will be better. A regular filler can shrink and swell along with the primer and paint gracefully and stay stuck to the metal during thermal cycling, but the metal reinforced filler can tend to loosen because it's rate of expansion matches neither the coatings or the metal very closely. That's just my theory, but the evidence is in almost always finding that type of filler to have not stayed stick to the metal.
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Old 07-30-2017, 07:20 PM
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Going along with what IDJ is saying. you are not going to find a way to fix pinholes without repairing the metal.........unless, You can get to both sides of the metal, get it immaculately clean on both sides and waterproof BOTH SiDES. The truth is, that just isn't going to happen in the land of restoration. The rust will continue and new pinholes will pop up.

Hopefully you can find a way to replace the rust and have a good foundation to build on.

Good luck with your project.

John
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Old 07-30-2017, 08:33 PM
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I think you may have misread about the pin holes. The metal is good and is a new quarter panel that was welded on. I was just wondering what the best filler is to use for covering over the welded areas plus in case there's some pin holes in the welds that could be used to fill them in.
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Old 07-30-2017, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotRodRick View Post
I think you may have misread about the pin holes. The metal is good and is a new quarter panel that was welded on. I was just wondering what the best filler is to use for covering over the welded areas plus in case there's some pin holes in the welds that could be used to fill them in.
My mistake. Please accept my apology.

I have not found the metal filled products to be perform well. There are two things to consider. One, nothing will stick to welding slag. Be sure the weld area is clean. If it is good and flat, grinding is good. If there are areas that are low or uneven, you may need to use a spot blaster or something to get the area clean.

If there is any way moisture is going to get behind the panel, the first choice is to touch up the pinholes with the welder. If that is not going to happen, use a product that is water proof. Personally, I like to brush on epoxy primer along the weld seams. Since Epoxy has a 72 hour pot life, I will brush 3-4 coats on in about 12 hour intervals with each coat going out an inch or so beyond the previous one. It should fill any pin holes that are small enough to be acceptable.

I don't want to sound like a commercial but I personally like to use the SPI brand because it has a little more build than any other I have used and it sands amazingly well. Most epoxies don't.

John



Later, you can DA it and continue on with your filler work.

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Old 07-30-2017, 09:59 PM
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I used them years ago, found that they are a waste of time and money.

Brian
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Old 07-30-2017, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I used them years ago, found that they are a waste of time and money.

Brian
And brutally hard to sand!
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Old 07-30-2017, 11:10 PM
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No problem at all as i do appreciate the help. I probably could go over the welds if i really had to.

I used U-POL #2 copper rich weld through primer in between all of the welded areas, I hope that stuff helps some with rust control. I prefer the epoxy primer as well which i had already sprayed the inner side of the panel plus the inner structure before welding the quarter panel on.

When i removed the old quarter panel there were several areas in between the pinch / spot welds that were completely bare metal that's been that way since 1968 that haven't ever rusted which after seeing that i believe that i will be okay with the epoxy primer as you had said.

I have absolutely no doubts at all that you know a lot more about body work than i will ever know. I just never got into it that much. Thanks again for the all the help!
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Old 07-30-2017, 11:13 PM
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Thanks a lot, I'm going to pass on buying that crap then!
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Old 07-30-2017, 11:20 PM
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Could something like these be used for filling in pin holes?

10pcs 2mm Aluminium Low Temperature Welding Brazing Rod For all AL Parts 45cm | eBay
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Old 07-31-2017, 12:18 AM
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Are these "pin holes" in the weld bead itself? If so, and you do not feel that you want or need to address them further, then Johns advice of brushing with Epoxy is best approach. I have used Dura Glass with success, and I would recommend a skim over all welds. I put the Epoxy down first to seal out moisture. If the holes are large enough that two coats of epoxy will not fill them then they need welded. It is my opinion, that using an aluminum based filler material to be melted in (if that's what you were showing in your link, is not going to work well as it would need some tinning or flux to adhere and fillers and primers hate fluxes.
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Old 07-31-2017, 01:54 AM
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The pin holes are in some of the weld beads. Thanks for letting me know about your success with using the duraglass on the welds as i'm going to get some. I kinda figured that the aluminum rods wouldn't work but wasn't completely sure.

Not to change the subject here or anything but what would be best to use to replace the factory lead seam where the sail panel connects to the roof? I was thinking of buying a lead free / lead kit from Eastwood but it would most likely be a complete waste as i haven't ever done it before.
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Old 07-31-2017, 06:53 AM
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I figured using epoxy goes without saying. Fibral is the fiberglass reinforced filler I prefer, having used duraglass, kitty hair, etc in the past. A good seam has no need for it but that Fibral is a dream to use, its made by UPOL. Try it and see, it spreads easily. I avoid the fiberglass reinforced fillers just like the aluminum ones but there's that.

The melted metal stuff is something I don't use either but do call attention to it when I find it so the crew can share the laugh. Again, it is almost always rusty and loose when discovered in an old repair.

Quarter to roof seams are something I have learned to patch over. While you weld up pinholes in the other seam would be a good time to do that and it eliminates all the questions about what to use there. Some replacement panels now come with an unflanged edge. Make it flush with a patch and do the same up front. Just a suggestion.
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