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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2019, 09:52 PM
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No, and after reading that, that is a very common fix for early 455 Buick blocks that people go wild with the drill doing one of the oil mods. The 74-76 blocks don't need these mods, they are the recommended sizes from the factory.

But, I'd never feel comfortable with something like that, knowing about it anyway. I'm a worry wart to the extreme. Wouldn't the constant heating and cooling break the tube loose over time?

I asked about having the hole braised shut, but he didn't like the idea at all, being it was only on one side and not blown through, I know people have repaired cracks by braising, so braising a non combustion or friction surface would be ok, or so I thought.

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2019, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dfish1247 View Post
No, and after reading that, that is a very common fix for early 455 Buick blocks that people go wild with the drill doing one of the oil mods. The 74-76 blocks don't need these mods, they are the recommended sizes from the factory.

But, I'd never feel comfortable with something like that, knowing about it anyway. I'm a worry wart to the extreme. Wouldn't the constant heating and cooling break the tube loose over time?
.
Won't come loose of it is a press-fit. Loctite sealer was just a foolproofing safeguard.
Something like Loctite Green, Stud and Bearing Mount (#291 I think is the #) will fill a .005" gap and needs Oxy/Acetylene torch levels of heat to ever break it loose.

I know of a couple of BBC that have had the entire length of the oil pan rail galley sleeved due to a rookie overgrinding for stroker crank clearance, one was put in a 10.0 index drag car and its been together close to 15 years now...been refreshened a couple times just for ring seal and head rebuilds, but the oil system fix never posed any problems. Makes in the area of 650-700 HP.

Your call...if you're not comfortable with that type of fix then Ok. I just wanted to point out it can be easily and successfully fixed without block replacement. Seems a shame to scrap a fully machined 4-bolt block for something so simple to fix.

Basically just a modified version of this:
https://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/s...ad+bolt+sleeve

Is it the vertical passage up to the rear cam bearing, that also comes out in the center of the rear main bearing saddle??
Or the cross passage from the outside of the block above the oil filter that meets this vertical passage??
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2019, 12:00 AM
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I'm not sure, the outer edge of the hole was about 2.5" from the rear saddle and about 2" up from the pan rail, on the oil filter side. Looked like a bullet went through there.

I get what you're saying and I'm pretty sure it'd be fine, but I'd be a nervous wreck the whole time and never enjoy it. Once I get that nagging feeling, it's over for me.

I appreciate you taking the time to point a solution out, you guys are beyond a blessing. I just can't live with knowing the foundation isn't 100%.

Last edited by Dfish1247; 06-01-2019 at 12:06 AM.
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2019, 05:10 AM
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I fully understand the worrying about it problem. I'm like that also but after it was running for a couple years I'd start to either forget about it, or worry more because the fix is getting old. Although I would have to see it to really comprehend the break and the repair. Maybe you can leave with both blocks and sell it to someone comfortable about repairing it? That would help make up $ wise for having to pull the motor because all of this.
I'd really love to see a picture of it, although if you are not already out the door with the new block, they might get the feeling you are documenting the problem just in case something doesn't go smooth. Could ruffle some feathers without meaning to.
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2019, 07:19 PM
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I'll grab a picture Monday morning.

Checked out this other block, had a deep scratch down #2 cylinder, I mean real deep. Wasn't told about it either, you'd think someone would tell you about that when asking if there's any issues. 4 hour trip down the pot.

I'll come up with something somewhere.
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2019, 03:36 PM
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Don't be afraid to sleeve a cylinder in a BBC if you're going to bore the adjacent cylinders, as long as the cylinder is not cracked out the bottom of the bore, like sometimes happens when a rod gets kicked off.

Don't recall your build exactly but two bolt BBC are safe to 600hp street use in my opinion.
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2019, 01:13 PM
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Not the best shot, but best as I could get. Tip of my finger is the hole.

Found another block, they are going to check it out before me buying it. So hopefully they’ll get started tomorrow.
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2019, 01:14 AM
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Couple things, see below.

The newly acquired block is good and was told yesterday it will be together and ready to pickup Tuesday or Wednesday, I dropped in and he had it on the boring machine, just needed that finished, honed, washed again, internals washed again just for good measure, mocked up, assembled.

I ordered the torque converter, it's an FTI street racer unit, 3000 stall. Asked at first how much power it made just for giggles, had no idea obviously, then he got to business and asked the entire car combination and intended use, started out with a 3200-3600 recomendation, I thought that sounded too high, but I'm the farthest thing from knowing about torque converters. So, after the back and forth, 3000 is where I wound up, I get a free restall if I hate it, so we'll see.

Before all the above took place, I told him about the Buick trans to Chevy motor, he asked specifically which plate I'm using, I ordered a b&m adapter, .140" thick so they are making pilot that much longer. He called them to get that measurement, I was impressed at the effort to say the least. Also gave me the spill on installation and gap between converter and flexplate. Even said, if I forget when bolting them together, stop immediately and call him back and he'll walk me through it, trashed trans isn't worth being done sooner.

After all that, and the order from summit, I forgot converter bolts, have to call this morning to make sure the size.

You guys will start seeing surgery pictures next Friday, and if nothing goes horribly wrong, maybe the following Monday, I'll have a video of it running. I want it running before July 4th, got a backyard Bosnia to put on.
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2019, 05:00 PM
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Look what showed up, hehe.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2019, 07:11 PM
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Nice ! A 9.5" converter??
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2019, 07:28 PM
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Yup, 9.5" 3000 stall. Even came with a xxl t shirt.


Since you're online, what would be a good thermostat to use with a high flow water pump(stewart emp 301?)


And, what are those dirt track air cleaner bases called that have the deflector in the front? Looks like a curved half pipe. I'll have to use one till I can get a cowl scoop installed so I don't have gas all over the windshield.
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2019, 09:02 PM
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I like the Robert Shaw high flow thermostats...Stewart sells them but you can get the same type from others too. Summit sells them under the FlowCooler name.

https://www.stewartcomponents.com/in...tegory&path=61

I don't know on the half round stainless or aluminum filter shield...I did a search at SpeedWay Motors, Summit, and Lane Automotive/AllStar and could not find anything.

Finally found a couple, at Jegs...Trans-Dapt and RPC Air Cleaner Shroud.
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2019, 09:21 PM
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Good deal, figured those and the milodon were the same being same price range, mr gasket didn't have stellar reviews so i eliminated it.


That will work on the air cleaner, I despise the look of a cleaner through the hood, but have to do something till I can get a cowl scoop welded on and painted to match.
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 06-20-2019, 07:37 PM
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Called today and the motor is ready to pick up, all together and ready.


So, after I get up tomorrow, I'll pick it up and begin surgery.
























I have read that with a moroso 20408 pan, the engine and trans can't be installed together, is that true? Not a huge deal, but it's easier to put them together outside vs under the car.
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:00 PM
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I have no idea on the pan, but it wouldn't surprise me....even a SBC flared sump pan is a tight fir on the '64-67 A-body.

Unbelievably, the A-body has the smallest trans tunnel of the GM muscle era cars, the Camaro and '68-up Nova are bigger.

Tight spot is with engine almost all the way in and then the bigger pan sump won't squeeze past the crossmember at the same time the bellhousing is tight to the firewall tunnel.
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