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  #151 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2019, 05:11 PM
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Well, after picking the 496 up, the 455 jumped out of the engine bay and on to the ground. Not bad for my dad and I just piddling around for 3 hours. Dad asked if I thought the motor would be on the ground today, I said I figured it would be because we were on a roll and didn't want to stop. Came out pretty darn easy to be honest.



Tomorrow is frame stands and fuel system and maybe getting the accessories on the 496 to line everything up vs fighting with it in the car. Sunday, if all goes well, you'll see the new motor in the engine bay.
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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2019, 09:05 PM
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Not much progress today, rained like a sob most of the day, then had to take the young'n to putt putt for his birthday.

Got the sending unit installed, old frame stands are out finally, thank the lord for u joints, and extensions. My son is a pit stop machine with a floor jack, 7 years old and I'd pit him against anyone, saved my butt for sure.
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2019, 02:48 PM
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Well, the new torque converter won't fully seat. It needs another 1/2" at least. However, we measured the snout on the FTI vs the stocker, the FTI is around 9/16"ish longer, so what is going on here? Gonna call FTI in the am regardless.
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2019, 04:23 PM
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Got the depth gauge out for a more accurate measurement

Stock is 1.8375", FTI is 2.3965" so I think that's my problem
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  #155 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2019, 08:19 PM
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By no small freakin miracle, we got this 10lbs in the 5lb bag. Had to slide the trans back a bunch and drop it straight in, no tilting at all.
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  #156 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2019, 08:42 PM
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I would show you guys a picture, but nothing looks any different.

Spent all darn day grinding and filling in the crossmember because the oil pan hit it, right where the vertical welds on the sump are, it hit the crossmember. So ground out a recess on each side and welded a half pipe in. Motor was in and out several times.

Then after all that, went to bolt the trans up, the bellhousing hit a couple bolt heads on the adapter, so ground recesses for them, it's all bolted together now by no small freakin miracle. There were some very frightening moments involving hands, 2x4's, and floor jacks. But nobody got hurt, that matters most.

Have to space the trans up on the crossmember as midge to get a good driveline angle, then cinch those down. Install starter, passenger header, fuel line,front accessories, reroute wires, few other little things, then pray it starts.

I will tell you, there definitely will be a hole in the hood, using a 1.25" drop base and 2" filter, dead flat lid, the lid is even with where the top of the hood is.

Whoever says you can put 2" primary headers in just removing a motor mount bolt and raising the engine on that side is full of it, we had to symmetrically drop the header with the motor, then when near the mount bolts, start a couple header bolts. The drivers side fits, steering clearance is fine, but good god if the upper a arm doesn't just miss by a molecule.


Anyone know how to identify a steering box so I can get correct hoses for the Saginaw pump I'm using?
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2019, 10:21 PM
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As far as I know, there is only one power steering box that bolts in directly, any other would need a special steering arm or different rag joint.

Stock power box in 1960's up to late 70's A-body is the Saginaw 800. It has a 3 bolt mounting pattern, and a 4 bolt aluminum cover with the lash adjustment stud/nut through the center of the aluminum cover.



If original the fittings are inverted flare, if a late 70's box it may have o-ring seal seats in the box, but Lee Power Steering has press-in flare nipple adapters for the box that allow use of older inverted flare lines.
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2019, 11:25 PM
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Here’s a couple pics. Some sort of flare fitting. The hose is still on the Buick engine, won’t work on the cvf Saginaw pump.
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  #159 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2019, 01:39 AM
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Those are adapters screwed into the ports on the box, looks like SAE 37 JIC, which is for the most part interchangeable with AN fittings.

SAE 37 JIC is what your local hydraulics hose store will have, rather then the AN.

Sometimes on the male side of the JIC nipple, it won't be a straight 37 angle flare like the AN fittings are, but a slight radius, like the shape of one end of a football, a convex shape to the sealing flat sides of the flare....but basically just like AN.

The Lee Power Steering performance box I linked the picture of previously appears to have the same fittings, just with dust caps screwed on them.

Those fittings are an aftermarket solution, rather than the factory inverted flare line and hose assembly's. The inverted flare would be visible if you screwed the adapter out of the port....if you need to or want to go back to factory style hose ends.

I'm not sure what fitting will be on the CVF pump, I'll have to look it up and see.....Looks like factory style fittings on the pump at their web site?
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  #160 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2019, 07:17 PM
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It looks like a flare to me as well, since I'll need real short hoses, I have an irpco close by, they make up hydraulic hoses, so I'll see if they can whip something up.

Both headers are installed, had to dimple #4 tube a tad so it clears, take a wild guess, the crossmember where it meets the frame, I must have the fattest crossmember in gm a body history, passenger side clears everything just enough to not dimple. Starter, dipstick, and torque converter are tightened.

Little by little it's coming together. I guess I'll drag out to bend up the fuel line in the am, then water pump, front accessories, wires, hoses, you get the idea.

On the wiring, the 455 starter had a wire hooked to the r terminal, it's a silver braided insulation wire, but the 455 has hei which the 496 does as well. I thought the r terminal was for points type ignition, anything else you guys can think of it would go to? Rest of the wiring is straight forward, given I marked them.
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2019, 08:01 PM
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The "R" terminal wire is likely just a left-over, as it would have been used originally on the '65 Buick points ignition, HEI didn't arrive until 1975.

The coil/distributor end of that wire is probably just tucked and taped into the harness somewhere near the distributor location. If hooked to the "R" starter terminal it will be hot only when the starter is cranking(it originally bypassed the resistor wiring to the points, to provide a full 12 V when cranking).
You can just leave it unhooked at the starter and tuck it into the harness if you don't want to chase the entire length and remove it. Then it is just a dead wire "passenger", not connected at either end.
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2019, 08:48 PM
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Good deal, thank you a ton.
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2019, 02:47 PM
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Fuel line is in, regulator hooked up, starter hooked up, transcooler lines in place. I have shopping to do tomorrow and finish up the odds and ends, plus wait on my fan switch to show up.

7 spark plugs are in, I cracked the porcelain installing #6, header tube right in the way, had to shave a plug socket down to fit once I got the plug started.

By the way, if you want autolite plugs, get 3294's, the champion rn12yc crosses with #65's, they do not fit at all, 3294's go right in.

Project in the meantime, my fan got broken when I pulled the radiator. It was cobbed on with those push through plastic screws. Anyway, I have my old efan shroud still and want to put the new fan on it, it's a Lincoln mkviii fan, I want to bolt it to the old shroud and what would I use to fill gaps and glue the filler pieces in? Silicone or epoxy be ok to secure the filler pieces.
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2019, 03:06 PM
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Epoxy. Silicone will fail.
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2019, 06:32 PM
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Thank you very much.

For the filler pieces, would acrylic sheet be ok or do I need something more flexible?
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