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  #181 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2019, 01:18 PM
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I'll get to wife to put it on YouTube then, I'm computer illiterate.

Double checked stuff today and moved the car back to her spot on the carport. The hose barb on the top of the water pump( pita bypass hose) is leaking around the threads, I'll try tightening it a bit more, if that won't work, I'll re pipe dope it. I didn't murder tighten anything that went in aluminum. No other leaks than that.

So far, coolant temp while idling is 185 and doesn't move, probably going to change once the hood is on. I did fill it and start it while still on ramps so it may have burped out all the air.

Oil pressure is 55psi hot idle at 700 rpms, held 2000 rpms and runs 75 psi there. Cold idle is 80psi, so it has to warm up a bit before moving. This is with 10w30 oil and a moroso high volume oil pump. I'd hate to see what 20w50 would do.

It revs instantly, has a good bit of chop at idle as well. Doesn't really mean anything, but seems like a good sign. Just blipping the throttle, there is no stumble or hesitation, and the headers aren't glowing anywhere like its lean, nor does the exhaust stink like its rich.

I haven't set timing or idle mix screws yet, but it makes vacuum for the brakes, they never got hard while backing up and moving forward. I never got past idle while moving either, just back up and move forward to scoot it over.

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  #182 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2019, 05:02 PM
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Another momentous occasion, the hood closes and a 3” air filter fits. Used a 1.5” drop base and flat lid. Had to get the banjo bolt for the fuel inlet, but no big deal. Saved a ton of money on this one, whew.
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  #183 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2019, 11:51 PM
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Cool deal!

Looks like a vey clean car, post up some overall pics.
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  #184 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2019, 03:49 PM
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Finally drove the car around some this morning, definitely has more grunt than the 455 did. The converter will let the car move, but barely touch the gas and it's at 2000 rpms and really moving, shifts feel softer than before as well, no big deal though.

The pipe plug in the driver side head was dripping just barely enough to run down and hit a header tube, heard the hiss of steam when I cut the motor off, got that fixed, I think, haven't seen anything else. For the super short drive with temps in the 80's at the time, car ran 185*, don't guess I can gripe too much about that, it was fully warmed up before driving as well.

Called about getting my mufflers put on, muffler shop doesn't feel very confident about getting 3" over the axles, but said he could try. So, I asked about having them come out in front of the rear tires, he said that's illegal, since when is that illegal? I really do not want dumps under the car, I despise those with a passion. Going with dynomax ultra flo mufflers, the rectangle ones.

But, I have to do something because dear god are open headers loud, sounds vicious, but after a 10 minute ride, my head was about to explode.

Got a funny moment though, a mustang pulled beside me( one of the coyote motor cars) and revved it up, guy looked early twenties and had a couple girls with him, for whatever reason, the Buick seemed offended at whatever the mustang said, because my ears were a friendly fire casualty to the one sided butt chewing the mustang got. I was in tears laughing watching their jaws hit the floorboard, but got the thumbs up. And after getting home, double checked things and didn't see anything wrong.
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  #185 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2019, 04:47 PM
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3" tailpipes
Flowmaster Tailpipe Kits 15819

I strongly suggest an x-pipe or h-pipe, too.
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  #186 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2019, 06:11 PM
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Jegs and Summit both have their own brand from header-back exhaust mandrel bent kits in both 2-1/2" and 3" likely cheaper($230-260) than the local shop will do just tailpipes....and the 2-1/2" mandrel bent will outflow even the crush bent local shop 3"... if they can even manage to do it at all.

I've done the Summit 3" on a '67 GTO with Chevy engine, fit is really good tailpipes fit well and point out the back under the bumper.
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  #187 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2019, 06:38 PM
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My wife ordered the flowmaster tail pipe kit 15819, I'll get the muffler shop to run the pipe from the headers to the mufflers, and have them put these tailpipes on of course. If I'm thinking right, don't the exit points mimic the stock a body exit points, if so, I'm tickled, always lied how those look vs straight out under the bumper.

Reason being, I want the exhaust kept tight to the body, my car isn't a low rider by any stretch, it's stock or just a hair higher to be honest, I don't want the exhaust dragging the ground, I've seen pictures that some of the kits hang very low. The little muffler shop bend or two from the headers to the mufflers shouldn't kill me too bad, darn near a straight shot.

The guy from the muffler shop said even if he could make it over the axle,the bends would be terrible tight, so we'll see how these fit.

As far as h or x pipe, being I'm not racing, am I really going to notice anything other than sound changes? I've read a bunch of stuff, but you guys know how that goes.
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  #188 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2019, 06:51 PM
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Something I meant to share earlier, here’s the reason I bought Doug’s headers, this is the driver side, right at 6.5” clearance at the low point.
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  #189 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2019, 07:03 PM
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I think the at least the h-pipe is mandatory to take the thumpers out of the exhaust, allows the pressure to balance out a little. It is just about the interior sound though, no real performance advantage. Electric cutouts is where the performance comes back--push a button and open exhaust, and BBC do love that.
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  #190 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2019, 02:46 PM
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Just got the timing set, I set the all in at 30* btdc, I'll mess with it more once I have mufflers on so I can hear for pinging.

I noticed it was smoking at 2000 or more rpms, looked blueish in color. Wasn't horrible by any means. I'm thinking my pcv is sucking oil in, reason being my valve covers just have the flat plate under the breather holes vs the box looking pieces from the factory. What can I do to minimize this other than new valve covers?

I would have pulled the hose to check if it's wet inside, but I was getting my head blown off by the exhaust noise and had to get away, started feeling kinda weird as well, like disorientation or something.
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  #191 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2019, 08:33 PM
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You can put a catch tank between the PCV and the carb, on the firewall or hidden, to act as an expansion chamber so oil falls out of the air stream.

I've given people rides in my open cut-outs, solid lifter 406 SBC, 4.56 geared '72 Nova and had guys get out and stumble a little or act a little disoriented from the noise and reverberation of open headers....even had one girl get out and get sick
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Old 07-26-2019, 12:50 PM
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Well, she is muffled now. Tbe trip to the muffler shop was embarrassing, any throttle was so god awful loud, people would look over and I would mouth"sorry". No cops thank goodness. Drive back home was so much better. Driving along is no louder than a 50 series flowmaster muffler, however, get over 3000 and it has a nasty bark.

Muffler shop 3" from header to muffler, dynomax ultra flow 14" square case muffler, flowmaster 15819 tailpipe kit. Fits like a glove and have plenty of ground clearance everywhere. No terribly tight bends from header to muffler.

Cruising oil psi is 75, hot idle is 50, water temp is 185-190 driving, and it almost hit 200 while stuck in traffic, so I'll need to get stronger fans. I'll start with the fan at the alternator, it has plenty of room for a thicker fan and see what that does. Then deal with the one in front of the ps pump if needed, that one has no room to move anywhere, so it'll have to be dead on in size.

I'll raise timing 2* at a time till it pings, then back it off. At 30* total, no pinging so far.

Performance so far is good, I haven't been hard on it at all, but it has more grunt than the 455 for sure, it's not vastly more, but I can tell a difference. The torque converter absolutely rocks, not difficult to drive in the least. I do miss the instant grab of a stock converter, where the car jerks forward at the slightest throttle blip, that's my only gripe so far.
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  #193 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2019, 01:43 PM
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At 200 stuck in traffic is good, nothing at all to worry about unless the air temp gets a lot higher than it was. 220 is still OK but getting borderline. Someone here may mention what 50/50 coolant boils at under pressure. I'm guessing it's over 255.
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  #194 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2019, 02:25 PM
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It's high 80's outside I believe right now. I'd rather not be that high if I can avoid it, the Buick ran around there constantly. It takes a mile or two moving before the water temp drops back to 190, I figure I'm going to be in the game of knocking down a couple degrees here, a couple there,etc. I'd rather be safe than sorry, haven't been caught in a long traffic jam in August yet and want to be prepared just in case.


I also noticed a little fuel boiling or vapor lock going on, when I started it this morning, fired up within 1/2 a turn, after getting done at the muffler shop, it took a couple turns and finally started. Nowhere near as bad as the Buick was for this, hot day you had to hold throttle wide open to get gas in, then quickly let off after it started. Didn't do that with this one, just turn it over a couple times, then started. I know it's one or the other because when I found the pipe plug leaking, I put a fan on top of the motor to cool it off, started instantly after fixing the leak.


Something else, I have got to be very lucky or these two engines have close to the same fuel needs, other than setting idle, I haven't laid one hand on the carb, and it's working great. No stumbling, no glowing headers, no pig rich stinking, no nothing. It's just working. However, I'm fairly sure it ain't enough, so after I have recouped some money because I'm broke, I'll call aed and get a carb, pretty sure an 850 dp will be the ticket, being mild cam, oval port heads, dual plane intake.


Here's my break in plan, drive normal varying speeds constantly, and at red lights giving some gas to load and unload motor. Don't want to idle more than 30 seconds at a time. After 468 more miles of this, 500 total,change oil, hammer down. Sound ok?
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  #195 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2019, 04:33 PM
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30 degrees is really Conservative for a BBC, I would go to 36 and then start checking for detonation.
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