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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2019, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dfish1247 View Post
Just saved this procedure as well, and thank you very much for taking time to write that up.

Just to sate my feeble mind.
Would 3/8” clearance be more preferable to 1/2”?
Will a couple tacks be plenty to hold the pickup tube on, or should the pump be disassembled and the pickup be fully welded? I ask about disassembly due to reading welding heat will kill the spring.
And finally (for now anyway) I got the oil pump stud, should I run the stud down finger tight till it bottoms out, then back off 3/8 of a turn, then as I torque the nut, it will turn slightly ashouldn’t hit the main bearing?
3/8" will be fine. 1/2" will be fine. 7/16" will be fine.

If there is a blind hole where the stud goes, then it won't matter. Put a little Loctite on it and thread it in at 10 ft/lbs, making sure that you have enough thread to take the full nut on the top. If the hole is open to the main bearing, Loctite it and thread it in until it touches the bearing, then back it out 1/2 to 1 whole turn. Let the Loctite set up before you assemble.

Oil pumps are very simple and can be completely disassembled in just a few minutes. Make notes.
Weld the tube completely is my best advice. Not only will that keep it in place, it will prevent the pump from sucking air. Don't weld the whole circumference at one sitting. Do a little, let it cool, then do some more.
.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2019, 11:17 PM
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Sounds good, appreciate the advice and it'll be used.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2019, 02:53 PM
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After 5 hours there it is. The oil pan needed a little work due to hitting the outer front main cap bolt on the passenger side, then had to shave a tiny amount off the oil pump body so the pan would line up on the bolt holes. Timing cover went on in about 2 minutes and the short water pump clears the cover. Lot of work and cleaning. Added bonus, the moroso pickup tube fit the melling pump perfect and has a tad under 12mm clearance from the pan bottom.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2019, 03:14 PM
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Took all day to find a good balancer installer, but it finally got installed. Plus the gloriousness showed up, big flipping valves for sure.

Probably Monday I'll bolt the heads on, couple questions, which bolts get thread sealer and is pure silicone ok to use since it stays springy? What should I wipe the deck surface off with before putting on the heads, isopropyl alcohol and paper towel ok?
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Last edited by Dfish1247; 02-21-2019 at 03:38 PM.
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2019, 03:55 PM
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BBC just need oil on the threads.

I use brake cleaner on a paper towel to degrease.

Looking at that exhaust flange reminded me that the last engine I installed with those heads needed to have the headers flanges ground to clear the head bolts, and it was a Corvette so getting the headers in an out was a hassle.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2019, 04:22 PM
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Head bolts need sealer if they go through into water jacket space, otherwise motor oil or the bolt manufacturer's specific lube.

Make sure the rocker arm studs were also sealed if they go into water jacket or the roof of a port so they don't suck oil or leak water into the valvecover area. Some companies have been known to neglect this on assembled heads..
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Old 02-25-2019, 10:12 PM
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Didn't put heads on today, just didn't feel like it. However, I chased the head bolt holes and they're all good, had a tight spot a couple times, but nothing concerning.

What thread sealer do you guys like? I've seen aviation sealer, rtv, 100% silicone. Any preferences?

Once the heads are on, I can measure for pushrods, do I need two length checkers due to exhaust being longer than intake? Haven't found a checker that goes from 7"-10", they all seem to move 1" and that's it.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2019, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dfish1247 View Post
Didn't put heads on today, just didn't feel like it. However, I chased the head bolt holes and they're all good, had a tight spot a couple times, but nothing concerning.

What thread sealer do you guys like? I've seen aviation sealer, rtv, 100% silicone. Any preferences?

Once the heads are on, I can measure for pushrods, do I need two length checkers due to exhaust being longer than intake? Haven't found a checker that goes from 7"-10", they all seem to move 1" and that's it.

I made my own. If you buy one, you'll have to get one in your range.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2019, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
Make sure the rocker arm studs were also sealed if they go into water jacket or the roof of a port so they don't suck oil or leak water into the valvecover area. Some companies have been known to neglect this on assembled heads..
DING-DING-DING.......times 10 on this tip. It's one of the most overlooked areas of engine building and can result in an engine that burns oil and you will have no idea where the oil is coming from. Remove any studs that are threaded into an intake runner and seal them with Permatex Aviation sealer.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Permatex/775/...IaArvdEALw_wcB

The other area that allows oil into the cylinders is at the mating surface of the head at the intake manifold, usually along the bottom where spraying a combustible substance will not find the gap. Spend a considerable amount of time examining the head to manifold connection before you bolt the heads down for the final time. Sometimes a thicker gasket can help seal up the gap at the bottom, if it does not misalign the heads with the intake too much .

Last edited by techinspector1; 02-26-2019 at 05:29 AM.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2019, 05:53 PM
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Finally got the heads on, the valve covers and intake are just on so I could see the light at the end of the tunnel. Gotta check pushrod length, then can put those on for good.

The 6 year old shop foreman said fingerprints on shiny valve covers are fine, lol.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2019, 12:15 PM
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I ordered a pushrod length checker, plug wires, and boot shields today( gotta get free summit shipping)

Anyway, I called Straub this morning and am going to use their method for getting pushrod length, then get pushrods from them, being they are a 30 minute drive from me.

I was warned the rocker studs may be too short, but to check first before buying anything.

When I get my pushrods, for final assembly,do I need to put assembly lube on the lifter rollers or just dip them in oil, I'll assembly lube the pushrods and valve tips obviously.
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2019, 02:57 PM
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Dipping the roller rocker in oil is just fine, the center bearings and the roller tip wheel. I like to tip the rocker sideways and roll the tip wheel a little after dipping to get the oil to run down inside the roller wheel and on the axle.
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:45 PM
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Thanks Eric for the advice.

I just got through measuring pushrods here are the results, I used the Scott Foxwell video geometry method and just centering the rocker wheel on the valve stem


Exhaust = 8.486" geometry, 8.650" center of valve stem, the geometry result looked just slightly towards the intake vs center of stem, but my eyes are not a microscope.

Intake= 7.581" center of valve stem, geometry method could not get a result because the rocker bottomed out on the rocker stud with still 1 turn to go. The wheel was about to fall off the valve stem, I've got to be doing something wrong.

I used the same rocker to do both intake and exhaust and have a dead straight line drawn from the center of the trunnion to the wheel pin. Could this have caused my problem on checking the intake?
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Old 03-14-2019, 02:56 PM
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Was the roller rocker tip trying to go off the exhaust flange side of the valve tip, and not the intake manifold side??
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Old 03-14-2019, 04:10 PM
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If I had the rocker way up the stud it was close to going off the exhaust side, but bottomed out, it was trying to fall off the intake side.

Talked with Mr. Straub and he gave a big explanation of what was going on, said brodix put a taller intake valve in than factory, and the pitfalls of not setting this up right. IE, ruining the valve guides for one example. It's put the brakes on for now as I have to work over the weekend, so I"ll get back on it Monday.
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