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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2019, 07:16 PM
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I got those from amazon. $75 shipped. They are 3.5" tall though, I could go about 1" shorter and not hit anything, which may happen whether I like it or not.

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2019, 03:35 PM
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Spent a few hundred bucks today, ordered cvf racing front accessories, 3/8 sending unit for gas tank from opgi, and motor mounts from ss396.

Transmission is the last big item. I was holding off on advertising the 455/th400 till I got the trans, but with overtime being slow, I may have to put it up for sale so I can get a transmission.
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Old 04-22-2019, 03:09 PM
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Git the water pump installed. Took a picture of the gap between the timing cover and the back of the pump, as I’ve read this was an issue. I used edelbrock pump and cast timing cover and they clear. The timing cover clears the cloyes double roller chain just fine. Plus the new motor mounts and sending unit showed up. I got a 3/8 unit because it should be enough for street driving, I’m not drag racing. Plus I may wind up putting a Holley sniper injection kit on vs buying another carburetor.
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:21 PM
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On second thought, I called and am sending the sending unit off to be made into a 1/2" with -8 an fittings just in case I put injection on. Better to do it now vs later.

Couple things, what oil should I fill this engine with to start? Do I need some expensive oil or will regular parts store stuff be ok since I have a roller cam? I cannot find a straight answer anywhere, just people getting into bill nye the science guy arguments.

And, what hoses and fittings can you think of to hook the -8 an to nicopp and at least set it up all the way to the front of the car for injection(minus installing the pump close to the gas tank since I don't have that yet.) but still being able to hook it to the edelbrock 1712 fuel pump I have now to get going.

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Old 04-22-2019, 04:47 PM
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You don't need a high ZDDP Break-in specific oil with the roller cam, but some ZDDP would be nice to cushion things a bit everywhere else. I'd use Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil, you can usually find that most anywhere.

If you want to use a synthetic do it later down the road, get the rings broke in first on dinosaur oil.

Easiest way to get an AN fitting to the metal tube is a "Tube Adapter" fitting that has a compression fitting on the other end. Summit, Earl's, Russel, Aeroquip all have them. You can get male or female on the AN side of the fitting, and 3/8" or 1/2" on the tube side of an -8AN adapter
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...078b/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-639223/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...8erl/overview/
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2019, 09:33 PM
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I'll get a few quarts of VR-1 to get started. I'll check into the fittings as well. Thank you very much.
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:13 PM
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I went to see how my brackets and pulleys fit, they are from cvf racing. Anyway my water pump pulley hits the balancer. After investigating, I noticed the timing pointer bottomed out against the back of the balancer. I guess off to autozone in the morning to get a puller and take the pointer off, then reinstall the balancer and see what’s wrong. The balancer sticks out about 2” from the timing cover.
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2019, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dfish1247 View Post
I went to see how my brackets and pulleys fit, they are from cvf racing. Anyway my water pump pulley hits the balancer. After investigating, I noticed the timing pointer bottomed out against the back of the balancer. I guess off to autozone in the morning to get a puller and take the pointer off, then reinstall the balancer and see what’s wrong. The balancer sticks out about 2” from the timing cover.
The base of the timing pointer likely has to be trimmed to allow for the difference in thickness of the cast aluminum timing cover. Most are made to fit the stock tin cover.
The other thing I cannot tell from any picture angles posted, but you may have the timing pointer upside down and on the wrong 2 bolts of the timing cover. I think it should be 1 bolt higher.
So had to tell from the pictures .

*****After I blew your overall front view up about 400% I am almost certain you have the timing pointer installed wrong...it needs to be spun 180° and moved up 1 bolt hole in the pattern on the timing cover. When installed right it should be at about the 1:30 position and the adjustable section with the point tip should be about 1/8" to 1/4" max off the surface OD of the balancer.
If you leave the top bolt in the bracket as is , remove the bottom bolt, and spin the whole pointer base 180°counter-clockwise so that the old lower hole is now at the timing cover bolt above the one you are currently using for the top bolt in the bracket you'll have it right.*****
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 04-25-2019, 11:20 PM
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Oh good lord, you’re right. That would explain also why tdc doesn’t quite line up right.

Back to the brackets, the bolts that go to the block and heads are all roughly 4 threads too long on both sets of brackets. I’ll get some more washers while I’m out to fix that, needing to restock hardware anyway for other things.
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:49 PM
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Yeah, the stamped one you are holding up is in the position the aluminum one has to mount at....the stamped one would actually mount at the two bolt locations you are currently using.

Different styles of pointer
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:58 PM
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Yup, the stamped one is for a 7" balancer. Tomorrow will be a good day to straighten all this out, it's supposed to rain all day, so a good one to be in the basement.

Now if someone would buy the 455/th400 in the car and the 400sbc I have for sale, that would make life even better,lol.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:28 AM
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Now, that is much better. Had to do a little honing on the balancer with a dremel to get it to go all the way on. It’s still very tight but not terrifying tight if you catch my drift. So far the pulleys are lining up dead straight as well.
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2019, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dfish1247 View Post
Now, that is much better. Had to do a little honing on the balancer with a dremel to get it to go all the way on. It’s still very tight but not terrifying tight if you catch my drift. So far the pulleys are lining up dead straight as well.
Just so you know, the damper needs to be a 0.001" to 0.0015" interference fit on the crank nose to cancel harmonics. If harmonics are left uncancelled by the damper being too loose on the crank, they can crack the crankshaft and the game is over.
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:24 AM
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How would I check that? Use a feeler gauge? If so I’ll check it this afternoon.

It took some heavy force with the wrench to get it on, I mean 250lb me bearing down to get it slid on. It’d be a real sob in the car to do and I’ve done a few in a car before.

Being we don’t personally know each other, I’m glad you guys give actual measurements vs saying something like strain your guts out and you’ll have it. But that’s the replies I’m giving you guys, so thank you all for being helpful and patient.
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:49 AM
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To check the interference fit you'd need a bore gauge or a snap gauge and 2" micrometer to measure the damper bore, and the 2" micrometer to measure the crank snout.
Feeler gauges would be useless with an interference(press) fit, they only measure clearance fits.

You may find that your underdrive pulley set leads to overheating due to driving the pump too slow with your 3.08/3.25 gear choice....or it may be okay with the hifgh flow Edelbrock pump and aluminum heads. I can't say, but just something to be heads up about.
Low speed alternator charging may take a hit too, depending on how much draw you've got on electric in the system and what alternator you are using....the old late 60's-early 80's 63 amp 10SI model is going to come up short probably, you might want to consider a swap to a 1990's CS-110 or 130/140 amp model as they charge much better at slow alternator speeds.
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