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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2019, 12:16 PM
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I’ll borrow a bore gauge and check. Better do it now vs chunking the crank.

I thought of the amp load and took care of that, hopefully. Mkviii fan does draw some juice. I’m guessing with a 225/235 cam I’ll idle 700-800rpm. They also sent a smaller alternator pulley should I need it. But warned me it can get into an over voltage situation.

It had darn well better not overheat, that’s why I swapped out to the mkviii fan and bought the victor water pump. I’m hoping not having the ac anymore, meaning the condenser is gone will help airflow through the radiator too. Only thing left is to try the 396 chevelle fan and shroud.
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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2019, 09:17 PM
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While I'm in the midst of waiting on tomorrow to measure the balancer interference let's change direction to an opinion session. See below

Let's talk carburetors, just a refresh on the engine combo first
496 cid, brodix race rite oval port heads(un touched btw), howards 225/235, .591/.601, 112 lsa, 108 icl, performer rpm air gap intake, roughly 10.3-1 compression, edelbrock 1712 fuel pump, 1/2" sending unit with -8 an fittings from Robbmc performance, 1/2" fuel line dougs d-322 headers, will have 3" exhaust.

I have been heavily leaning on going with a prosystems 850 mechanical secondary, but I have wondered if the lowly edelbrock avs 800 will do the job after I get it tuned properly. Reason I say that is I've grown up around nothing but holleys, but after dinking around with the 750 edelbrock on the 455, I have to say it's much easier to fool with vs a holley, my personal opinion of course. I have never drove or even been in an automatic car with a mechanical secondary carb, just 4 speeds.

Reason I even mention the avs 800 is I'm figuring my engine will fall over in the low 5000's, stretch goal of mid 5000's, would the avs hold it's own here or would the extra few hundred be worth it for the prosystems? I'll have an afr gauge installed before starting the car so there's my tuning tool.

On another note, the 1712 pump has 3/8 female npt inlet and outlet, I'm going to use 3/8 male npt to 1/2 barb fittings so I don't have a bunch of adapters meaning more places to leak. Everything in my mind is telling me this is beyond stupid, but can I open up the 3/8 portion of the fittings a little? I don't mean making it a human hair thin piece of threaded sheetmetal, but trying to minimize restriction, or at the power level I'll have is it even a concern?
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2019, 09:53 PM
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I can't help you on the carb as far as the AVS...I'm a Holey man and if I was choosing it would be either an 855 vacuum secondary or an 850 or 950 mechanical.

On the pipe fittings you have to realize the actual ID and OD of the pipe is different than the size designation would suggest.
3/8" NPT pipe thread is .625" OD, with common Schedule 40 wall thickness of .091" gives an ID of .443"...bigger than the 3/8" designation would suggest by a good amount.
As far as a 1/2" hose barb to screw into 3/8" NPT threads, you will find about the biggest you can drill the fitting will be about .470" or so, anything more is just getting too thin to have any strength and will break the barb nipple off the fitting.
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2019, 10:17 PM
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I figured drilling a fitting would be way more risk than reward. I'm 99% positive I'll run out of motor before I run out of fuel.

I was thinking an 850 is a good compromise size for a 496, not as much top end power, but better street manners, which is going to be 99% of the time. But, I'll be making due with the 750 edelbrock for a while, till I get the money for a carburetor.

If I'm not mistaken, I think prosystems sets the carb up for you, don't quote me though.
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2019, 11:49 AM
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Why didn't any of tell me that brass fittings are rediculous expensive? I've ordered heater hose 90's, a couple 3/8 npt to 1/2 barb 90's, 25ft roll of 1/2" nicopp, clamps so it doesn't flop around everywhere.

Now, from the fuel pump(mechanical) to the regulator can I run the nicopp to the fittings and just have a short piece of hose to attach it? I'll bead the ends of the nicopp so the hose doesn't fall off of course. There shouldn't be any stress as this all is mounted to the engine, I'm going to use a Holley regulator mount that bolts to the passenger side of the carb pad.

Next, what hose should I use for my flex joints? what could I use that doesn't break down but still tighten with a hose clamp? I'd love to use ptfe braid but I don't think I can clamp that.
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2019, 12:23 PM
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If the regulator is mounted solidly to something, you can run the NiCopp solid from the pump to the regulator, no need for any hose in that line. Just need hose for between things that move like the engine/mechanical pump and the car frame or body when you span that gap.

Factory fuel lines go from mechanical pump to carb inlet in one solid piece.

Push-Loc/Push-Fit style hose will work just fine for what you want to do, any of it made in the last 4-5 years will be alcohol proof.
The better nylon braid can be clamped too, but tends to look a little ragged as the unclamped section on the end unfurls after a time. Helps to heat shrink tube the end of all your connections before clamping if you use the nylon but don't use the AN fittings to go with it.

Yeah, you can't clamp the PTFE braid, that has to have the right fittings to work.

Got a link to the 1/2" NiCopp….I've done some looking but could not find any bigger than 3/8"??
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2019, 02:12 PM
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Go to amazon and type in "25ft copper/nickel 1/2" line" should show up, it's $65 for 25ft. The seller is thestopshop. Thanks for the hose help.


If my flaring abilities were good, I'd do that, but mine are horrific. But, did you get what I was saying? Have maybe a 2" at most hose at each end so the hardline is supported and won't flop around. I don't think I mentioned length of hose. Yes, the regulator with be on the carb pad mount, I think Holley makes it.

From gas tank and frame to fuel pump should be around 1ft of hose for flexing. That's my plan anyway.
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 05-05-2019, 03:32 PM
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Sending unit showed up. Almost too nice to install, almost.
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Old 05-08-2019, 07:06 PM
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Well, I think the oil pan has to come off.

Got home from work an hour ago, went to prime the motor, and disappointment. No pressure on the gauge and the drill never bogged down. I done this for about 60 seconds waiting for the bog and never got it. I pulled #8 lifters out and the oil just falls out of the galley hole, the oil pressure port above the filter does the same when spinning the pump with the drill.

I have around 11mm clearance between pan and pickup, pickup is welded on the pump. If I turn the pump backwards (by hand) I can hear the oil gurgle in the pan, so I wouldn't think the pickup is cracked.

I'm using an old distributor with the cam gear removed as a priming tool btw.

I have to get longer bolts to put the engine on the stand, so I'll do it all in the am.

Dead car, dead oil pump maybe on the 496, ain't old cars just great.
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2019, 09:10 PM
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Bummer.

First thing to look at would be the bypass valve and spring in the pump cover.
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Old 05-08-2019, 09:22 PM
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Will do.

But, I am right on the drill should strain heavily once the pump picks up the oil?
The small blocks I've done have been that way and I figured this was no different.

Oh, once this and the cars key switch issues are squared away, I'm getting a converter and an adapter plate and getting this in the car, I'm sick of walking by a bunch of money just laying around the basement. Should be one month from now, I'll be putting heart surgery pictures up. I'll just behave on the throttle in the meantime, mostly.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2019, 10:05 PM
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Yeah, you should definitely be able to notice the load placed on the drill.
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Old 05-09-2019, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
Bummer.

First thing to look at would be the bypass valve and spring in the pump cover.

Are you talking about the bypass valve where the filter spins on?
And the pressure spring in the pump?

As far as the bypass valve, I don't see it causing a problem. If it's stuck closed all the oil would be pulled through the filter. If it's stuck open the oil will bypass the filter and still go to where it's suppose to go. Won't it??


The bypass/pressure spring in the pump, if the valve is stuck open you will get no oil, if it's stuck closed you would get more pressure (assuming the rpms are high enough).


I would try running the drill longer just to be sure it's primed down below before taking it apart.

Was the oil filter FILLED with oil when installed? If not, keep priming.
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Old 05-09-2019, 01:02 PM
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I filled the filter before priming.

Got the pan off and nothing looked out of the ordinary. Pulled the pump and stuck it in the pan I drained the oil in and spun it and it pushes oil, checked the bypass valve in the pump and it was closed, even put in the blue spring just for grins. Put everything back together, and got the same result as last night, a dribble at the #8 lifter oil galley, same at the pressure port with no pressure showing. Never got the bog on the drill either.

Could it just be the pump gears are out of tolerance and not letting it build pressure? I have read and believe techinspector spoke about this earlier with the gears having too much clearance between them. I haven't got the feeler gauges out yet, but the pump doesn't feel tight when turning it by hand. What should be the clearance between the gears and the housing?

Oh, the oil pump discharge hole is opposite the hole in the main cap, is that right?
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2019, 01:33 PM
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I can't picture the pump out of the motor, I forget. Is it possible to put the pickup into a container of oil and turn the pump with a drill? No insult meant but you are turning clockwise right?
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