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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2019, 06:38 PM
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Well, do the words "#%[email protected] me" mean anything to you all? Because, I have oil gushing out of the middle main bearing cap, I mean ole faithful gushing out of the middle main cap. And to top it off, I stripped the first thread in the crank snout when I took the balancer bolt out, I got that fixed though thank god.

Any ideas besides the fight I'm fixing to have with the machine shop.

I'm sorry for the French to start the reply off with, but I'm furious right now and needed a small vent.

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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2019, 06:47 PM
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Jeez, he screws up and tells you maybe next week? He should of had you in immediately.
Sorry about the BS you're up against now.
Man, that sucks.
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2019, 08:07 PM
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I agree, any reputable shop would tell you "bring it right in, well deal with it today" as you are previously finished work now proven to be shoddily dome or some detail overlooked. Your work should now be immediately placed right back at the head of the line.

I can't come up with an easy issue to explain a leak at the middle main like that.
Since the new crank is standard size, it's not like they put a standard bearing on an undersize crank and created a big leak, and the only oversize bearing at the standard diameter is just +.001", not enough to create a huge leak. To create a huge leak you'd need .010+ clearance, impossible to do with a standard diameter crank journal.

Keep us posted on what you find out, I'm real intrigued what they could have screwed up.
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2019, 08:50 PM
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They don't know about the internal leak yet, it was after 5:00 when I found it. Frankly, the more I think about, I may just call Scott Foxwell (straub technologies) and see if he can squeeze me in this week. Cut my loss type thing, and lesson learned.

if they blundered that, I haven't got much faith on the rest of it either, if you catch my drift.
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2019, 09:21 PM
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I asked on another forum as well, they're thinking the upper bearing is plum missing. It would make sense, take path of least resistance.

I see why people just spend the extra for a crate motor, lot less aggravation. Really left a sour taste in my mouth. I hate to spend even more for straub to fix it, but my faith is pretty well shot on this other bunch.

If it winds up being something like the block was trashed, I'll sell the rotating assembly and oil pan, and save up again and just buy a crate 540 short block and be done. Everything else will fit in and on it. That's worst case scenario though. Or, yank the 455, send it to tri shield, and have an aluminum head 470 made, at least it would drop right back in and be a real axle snapper.
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2019, 01:38 AM
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I thought of the missing bearing shell too....it just seemed like too big a blunder for any engine shop to even let out the door....unimaginable too me.

I certainly understand you dilemma of letting them touch it again, a double edged sword.
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2019, 04:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
I agree, any reputable shop would tell you "bring it right in, well deal with it today" as you are previously finished work now proven to be shoddily dome or some detail overlooked. Your work should now be immediately placed right back at the head of the line.

I can't come up with an easy issue to explain a leak at the middle main like that.
Since the new crank is standard size, it's not like they put a standard bearing on an undersize crank and created a big leak, and the only oversize bearing at the standard diameter is just +.001", not enough to create a huge leak. To create a huge leak you'd need .010+ clearance, impossible to do with a standard diameter crank journal.

Keep us posted on what you find out, I'm real intrigued what they could have screwed up.

Anything is possible.
They recently bored 7 of 8 cylinders .020 over and one .010 over on my 5.3.... ...not the OP's guy of course, but anything is possible with mere mortals doing the job by hand and brain.


I know as I'm getting older, I'm making way more mistakes at work.


I would talk firmly to the machine shop, tell em what's up, and that I'm at the front of the line....just do not lose your temper with them, firmly but nicely.


Don't put money out of your own pocket to correct it.


This is why I assemble my stuff. I'm able to check all clearances....trust no one.
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2019, 08:08 AM
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Although I've only built one motor, the first thing that came to me was missing half a bearing.
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2019, 12:39 PM
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Ill call Monday, but being Memorial Day they're probably closed, then Tuesday.

I have to work so it'll be over the phone and have my dad drop it off. I'll be decent with them, but if anything less than "bring it in right now and we're getting to work right away" is said, I'll call straub and see if they can get me in, and wash my hands of it. Hate to spend the money as this'll kill the money for a converter and adapter plate, but a motor has to be right, not close enough.
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2019, 06:30 AM
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Just got off the phone with the machine shop, he said bring it in this afternoon and we'll get on it first thing in the morning. He said he still didn't have room at first, but after I told him the deal, things changed. He asked if the heads were on yet and I told him they were, that earned a groan. But, neither of us acted ill towards the other so hopefully it'll go well.


As mad as i am over the deal, most of the time showing my hind end right off the bat has never worked on getting something fixed. If i'm about to get the shaft, it has always worked.
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2019, 09:22 AM
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Well, there is a chunk of the oil galley missing at the back of the block is the diagnosis.

Find a block, get a bill of sale, machine work is free and we'll reimburse you for the block, and get it together. Was his words to me.

Only thing I can find is a two bolt block, can the 4 bolt caps be used on a two bolt block? Or just get main studs and be done?

Or, just sell all of this @$&/ and call it a day?
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2019, 10:12 AM
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That sucks, but at least they are willing to make good for it. I'm not really the one to say but I believe they do machine 2 bolts into 4 bolts with new caps. I thought I saw that somewhere anyway?
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2019, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55 Tony View Post
That sucks, but at least they are willing to make good for it. I'm not really the one to say but I believe they do machine 2 bolts into 4 bolts with new caps. I thought I saw that somewhere anyway?

Yes, they are made.



Better than selling everything and losing a lot of money.
Let the machine shop pay for the caps, bolts and machine work.
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2019, 02:48 PM
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I'm going in the morning to look at a 445 casting 2 bolt block. Hopefully it'll work out.

I asked about turning it into a 4 bolt, he said we will, but it's your dime. Also said I do not need it being as its not forced induction or high rpm.

I figured with them making good on everything else, not to poke the bear. Reimbursement on the block is going above and beyond, to me anyway.

So, it'll be another little bit before I get started on installation.

This conversation took place in person, the hole is 1.25" roughly above where the rear main cap sits. Looks like a rod bolt smashed into it and poked through. But seems odd that a counterweight didn't block it.
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Old 05-31-2019, 09:03 PM
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Since it is near the rear of the block....did the shop consider drilling and reaming the passage oversize, then pressing a thin wall sleeve in place to reform the oil passage in the section that is blown out??
Sealed in with a Loctite sealer along with a .0005"-.002" press-fit.

This would save the 4-bolt block and all the machine work already performed.

I don't know the exact size without being there to see the situation, but something like 1/2" or 9/16" x .015-.030" wall tube...could be brass or steel.

Wicks Aircraft Supply has 9/16" x .035" wall chrome moly at $7.00 a foot. 1/2" x .028" wall at $5.23 a foot

I've seen spun main bearing webs fixed by Lock-Stitch pinning 1/2 moon sections of small engine cylinder sleeve into overbored main saddles, and the whole thing line bored and honed to save a 4-bolt L88 block.....an oil galley sleeve is cake walk compared to that.

I should have mentioned earlier, block would have to pass a crack test in the broken area first.

Not much different than drilling and reaming for a replacement valve guide....if the hole is short enough a 1/2 diameter replacement bronze valve guide blank could even be used, then drilled to close to original galley ID after it is pressed in place. The style of blank used to put bronze guides on old stock iron heads like SBC camel hump or BBC 049's.
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