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Old 02-10-2014, 11:02 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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This is why we have welding respirators, it doesn't have to be a fresh air, though that would be much better. I have been protecting myself welding for years and I can smell it RIGHT NOW when I walk into the shop. It kills me when I see some of the guys not wearing protection, I can only suggest it so many times.

On the rot, the Zinc is a "sacrificial" metal. That is all zinc is, it doesn't so much "block out" moisture from getting to the metal. It sacrifices it's self instead of the metal under it, well that can only happen so long before the zinc is gone and the metal rusts.

If you will notice rust on cars is very localized now, right next to the rusted hole the metal is solid, where in the old days the whole area would be rusting.

Brian

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Old 02-10-2014, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by desotolewis View Post
Thanks for the advice I didn't think something like that would be a good idea. I figured it would grow to be a runny stinky mistake. I am restoring a 51 Desoto and something that resembled tar and was just curious of an equivalent. I have just heard mixed reviews on undercoating. Some people put it on everything and others would sooner be shot than use it.
I coated the inside of the cowl on my 68 Fairlane with truck bed coating. This was after I repaired the rusted sections with fiberglass and Eastwood's rust encapsulator.

I'm thinking of applying this to the wheel wells and other areas on my Trabant instead of using asphalt under coating where water can sit when I start working on the body.

All my collector cars I keep in the garage so it's probably not a big deal anyway.
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:54 PM
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Thanks for the Asbestos heads up. While working on my car the thought usually doesn't even enter my mind. I bet it does have Asbestos, I will be wearing a respirator from now on when I am scrapping up the stuff. Thanks
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