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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2020, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berto75 View Post
Posting a photo that has cylinder 8 push rod at top cylinder 2 push rod in middle and a stock Goodwrench 350 motor push rod at bottom. Talk to me guys. Want to fly out to Cali haha
WTF - pull the intake and lifters and check the cam. If all is well, then determine correct pushrod geometry. Call the guy that sold you the motor to mention that either he was wamboozled by the previous seller or he wamboozled you.

'Used performance engine' is synonymous with 'tear it apart' and then talk price.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2020, 08:19 PM
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Yeah gonna start removing intake best way to clear the coolant before removing manifold ideas?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2020, 08:21 PM
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I tried to contact the seller who sold it to me the motor and of course he's blowing me off figures. A**hole
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2020, 09:59 PM
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Removed all push rods and only the two on passenger side near firewall were different other 14 were the same comp cam ones
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2020, 10:41 PM
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Once you do the check for correct length, if the 14 Comp Cams pieces prove to be the correct length, you should be able to buy a replacement pair from Comp Cams. You'll probably have to call them though, to order just two.

Just took a quick look at Summit, Comp Cams Magnum #7372 is stock length
for flat tappet cams, 7.800"long and available as a single under #7372-1, $11/ea.

if you get lucky, the stock length will be correct.....but you've got to check it the right way to know for sure. Most aluminum heads have +.100" longer valves and that typically also means they need +.100" longer pushrods too, but not always, it depends on the cam lift too.

Either the builder who is known to be a crook(I see "James Roby" at the bottom of the invoice), or the customer you bought the engine from has butchered it back together with 2 different lengths and types of pushrods in it.....that's never a good sign....I'm with 64Nailhead, the intake needs to come off so you can inspect the lifters before you go buying any more parts.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2020, 11:51 PM
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Alright I will get to removing the intake on Tuesday tommorow I will be spraying primer and paint on the cab . Hopefully this neighbor I got dosent make phone calls on me. When I painted the bed he got all sensitive ***** of a neighbor
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-26-2020, 11:58 PM
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Weíre back to whose heads. The pictures I could find appear to be aluminum, is this true?

If aluminum can you define whether aftermarket or GM?

If GM there will be a lengthy casting number inside on the head, under the rocker cover.

The issue is valve stem length aftermarket aluminum heads use a .1 inch longer stem than GM uses on their heads including aluminum as in the Z28/Corvette L98 engine. So you gotta not only know GM or aftermarket but the valve stem length used in the heads you got. Stock GM valve will be about 4.921 inch from head face to stem tip. Aftermarket will be around 5.028 inch. You need to be sure the valves in your heads are the correct length, given all the problems measure them all. This is essential for getting the right pushrod length as the valve stem length establishes how high the rocker mechanism sits from the cam centerline. For example, assuming the effects of pushrod length driven be the cam lift are not counted, maybe a better thought is in terms of aftermarket heads on a stock GM cammed bottom end. Where the GM engine with a flat tapped cam uses a 7.8 inch pushrod; the same bottom end with an aftermarket aluminum head will need a 7.9 inch push rod. Otherwise the rocker will sit at an odd angle which will upset where and how it addresses the valve stem, and may have trouble clearing the spring and itís retainer. I think that Harbor Freight sells a 12 inch caliper, you will find this useful for measuring your adjustable push rod for length when you get that far.

If you donít have one, get yourself a paper copy of the Competition Products catalog. Itís easier to find stuff than their on line catalog and has little tidbits of info that donít appear with the on line version.

Bogie
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-27-2020, 10:21 AM
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You can check the lift with a DI and not have to take off the intake.
If all the lobes have about the same lift, I'd let it ride with a new set of proper length push rods.
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Old 07-31-2020, 01:38 AM
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That's the guy then, apparently...

The name 'James Roby' is on the bottom of that invoice.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2020, 12:32 AM
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Sorry guys been up too alot. Update removed intake and rockers and pushrods so upon removing manifold this is what I found check out attached picture. Thank you guys what's next? Should I go give the person who sold me the motor a visit? Or should we locate James Roby?
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2020, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berto75 View Post
Sorry guys been up too alot. Update removed intake and rockers and pushrods so upon removing manifold this is what I found check out attached picture. Thank you guys what's next? Should I go give the person who sold me the motor a visit? Or should we locate James Roby?
What is it you want us to see here?? At that pic size and focus i don't see any detail beyond a possible misslocated or wrong size intake gasket.

They have to be kept in order, so they go back on the same lobe that came off of...but what does each lifter bottom look like??
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2020, 07:48 AM
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Hopefiklt you can see this photo
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2020, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berto75 View Post
Hopefiklt you can see this photo
Looks like the top broke off the lifter.
The plunger popped out!
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2020, 09:49 AM
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I’d replace all the lifters with EDMs and send it.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2020, 09:59 AM
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I see pieces of the wire bail that keeps the insides of the lifter inside the lifter. This looks like what you see from high revs on stock lifters that are not adjusted with enough preload.

What happens is the engine is run where there are separations in the valve train, common to bigger cams at high RPMs, but not unique to them. The lifter closes any gaps but runs to the limit of travel. That limit being the pushrod cup is riding on the bail. The wire type bail will eventually fail in pieces or just pop out. To run hydraulics at this limit requires a Circlip as the retainer and even then it ain’t always fool proof. Often the perpetrator is the RPMs exceeding valve spring stability or miss alignment or adjustment of the parts of the valve train.

I can’t say this is a builder mistake or operator error or some of both.

Bogie
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