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Old 11-24-2019, 07:49 PM
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Baffled

I have accessory power to my gauges and fan, and the engine cranks, but I have no power at the fuse block (no juice to headlight switch, horn, brake lights, etc.). Help!

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Old 11-24-2019, 08:14 PM
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Are your gauges aftermarket?
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Old 11-24-2019, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevyhed53 View Post
I have accessory power to my gauges and fan, and the engine cranks, but I have no power at the fuse block (no juice to headlight switch, horn, brake lights, etc.). Help!
Make, model, year would be helpful also any electrical mods beyond gauges?

Not all vehicles are wired the same way, hence the question.

Bogie
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Old 11-25-2019, 01:29 PM
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I am thinking your gauges and fans are ran seperate from the factory harness.

Most setups run battery, starter, fuse block, switches.

Everything is ran through the key in most rides. The exception is the headlight switch. If the key was bad you would still have headlights. The only reason you would not have headlights is if you lost your chassis ground.

The thing would still crank because the block is grounded. But most of your factory items would be without a sufficient ground and there for no way to get power.

Throwing out options here. But check that block to firewall/chassis ground.





The more you can provide about the ride and the electrical system the better.
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Old 11-25-2019, 03:37 PM
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If you have an amperage gauge in the package and it goes open, that can cause your problem too.
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Old 12-08-2019, 08:23 PM
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Belated thank you for these replies. I was unfortunately distracted for a while from the important work of getting my truck on the road again! It's a '56 Chevy stepside on an early '70s Chev truck chassis. 400SBC and I just put a 4spd in it. My gauges are the Autometer 5-gauge setup, and I added a tach and a clock in the dash. Since I first posted my question I freshened up the connections at the headlight switch, which seems to have worked. I have the repro headlight switch that is stock for the '55-'59 truck, and I wish someone made a connector for it like the one American Autowire makes for the later version. Thinking about whether the later switch would work in my truck.
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