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Old 11-02-2016, 10:41 PM
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BBC 454 identify

Got pics of numbers, might took some not needed. If anyone can help me find out exactly what I have on block and heads, I'd appreciate it. If you have a Web page that I can use, that be cool too.

I took a pic of passenger side head in side, back in the corner looks like a blow out? Don't look right but let me know if you agree.

I have not took the pan off to see if 2 bolt or 4 bolt. So here we go on heads.
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:45 PM
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Now block, sorry about the pic up side down by the oil filter, I see a "K" and have been told that's favorable?
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Old 11-02-2016, 11:46 PM
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Block looks to be 1989 454 truck, probably 2-bolt main but could be 4-bolt. "360" head casting is 1985-89 truck oval port, probably peanut port.

on the casting is a "K", doesn't mean anything special. Neither does "hi-perf pass", that is cast into every big block chevy.

Not a blow-out in that back corner, just the rough casting of the oil drain hole to the lifter valley at the corner of the head. One of the things builder clean-up with a die grinder when building a performance engine. There will be spots like that in numerous places in botth the head and the block, along with sharp jagged places around the outside to clean up also.
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Old 11-03-2016, 12:10 PM
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The guy I bought it from said the last year or so of the 14015445 block was the same as they used in the 1990 454SS trucks and it's a thick block? When I typed the number in on Google when we took it down to test drive I did pull up a couple comments about it being thick to where guys like to take it .60 over and still have plenty of meat left between cylinders.

I know I got a ways to go a little more to know what I have so I can better know which best way to take this motor on built.

Side note, what's best to protect things once the engine heads and intake off, WD40 it and wrap in plastice or blanket?

Last edited by Tony_W; 11-03-2016 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 11-03-2016, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony_W View Post
The guy I bought it from said the last year or so of the 14015445 block was the same as they used in the 1990 454SS trucks and it's a thick block? When I typed the number in on Google when we took it down to test drive I did pull up a couple comments about it being thick to where guys like to take it .60 over and still have plenty of meat left between cylinders.

I know I got a ways to go a little more to know what I have so I can better know which best way to take this motor on built.

Side note, what's best to protect things once the engine heads and intake off, WD40 it and wrap in plastice or blanket?
WD40 WILL NOT prevent rust, no matter what anyone tells you.
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Old 11-03-2016, 04:33 PM
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It's a 4 bolt and peanut heads I guess.

not sure what to do with it, looks like he ran it with no antifreeze. Water ports are nasty.

Feels like a mistake purchasing this 454 with 700r4. Talked to a builder and simple things turn big.

Gonna think on it a bit.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-03-2016, 06:31 PM
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Sitting here thinking how that visit went, over at a motor builder.

I walked in wanting to see how much it be for the block being cleaned and reworked to what it was new, my thoughts was purchasing after market heads and intake, headers and topped with a Holley and installing ourselves.

All the 454 info and data numbers I read went out the window with him.

He first told me all 454's are the same until 1990. I need to go to a hydraulic cam becuase staying with oem tappets would mean I need to add zinc to my oil.

He could not or did not want to budget anything, he went next to horse power. He wanted 7000rpms and 550 hp or more, why? Becuase he kept going back to those numbers even after I repeated not intrested over 400hp unless cost is was same as buying oem and I don't drive it over 4500rpms myself. Im not after top end, I don't plan to pull with it, just something simple. Hell it runs fine so bottom end may not need going thru, but I heard some guys claim a builder went thru my block for under 1000.

$8,000 dollar builds is all he discussed. I kept at it thinking once the ice would break between us he'd see what I wanted, but never happened. He even said my crank in it sucks and needs replaced, So it ended there.

What happened to ugly fugly engines
That looked like they wouldn't run and then I'd watch my pop change push rods, pistons and new water pump, carb and the SOB would run great?

A simple engine swap turned 8000 grand? Is there any simple wrenchers anymore?

Yea I'm btching
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:07 PM
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So you talked to the wrong guy for your needs and walked away. Good for you, you made the right decision.

Now go find a different shop that will accommodate you.

He was correct, there is nothing special or thicker about the block you have. Most any BBC will go to .100" overbore, so don't worry about .060",

If you want "ugly fugly" that runs then it pretty much falls into the do-it-yourself category.

I don't know any shop that could possible disassemble, clean, and remachine a bottom end back to basic stock for less than $2000. If you do disassembly and reassembly you could possibly get it down to $1500 depending on what exactly may need rework and what is ok to use as is. That is just the short block.

A shop has to put their name on it so they aren't going to cut corners.
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:20 PM
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Yea I get it, and glad I walked away.

Things have changed. But my money hasn't lol.

Alright well I'll look into intake and carb for these heads.

The previous owner didn't use intifreeze I think, the water ports surfaces are rusty kinda why I was looking at a cleaning.
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