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Old 12-11-2019, 12:12 AM
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Bending 90 degree brake hose ends?

I'm having a hard time routing new brake hoses properly from my new calipers.
Have ordered 2 sets so far. One set it too long (18 in), the other is sligtly too short (16 in). Both sets are Earl's , 3 AN, one end 90 degrees.

Have any of you tried to change the 90 degree end a bit with a brake line bending tool? Or are these too hard and will likely break?
I know it's not any guarantees here, but how is the odds?


https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...5242/overview/

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Last edited by staleg; 12-11-2019 at 12:19 AM.
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Old 12-11-2019, 06:03 AM
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Can you get the short line out to the frame, have the steering clearance. Mount a tab on the frame, with a union to mate the flex line with the hard line.

Without a visual it is hard to advise...


Pep

Last edited by rip-tide; 12-11-2019 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 12-11-2019, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rip-tide View Post
Can you get the short line out to the frame, have the steering clearance. Mount a tab on the frame, with a union to mate the flex line with the hard line.
Pep
I think i understand.
For example mount a AN3 to AN4 expander fitting to the frame connection, then mount an AN4 to AN3 reducer fitting to the expander and fasten the flex line to the "new" AN 3 end. This would probaly increase the length by nearly an inch.
I have thought about something like that, yes.

Another brake fitting question:
Are swivel fittings good for brake use? like this one:
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/vpe-11350
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Old 12-11-2019, 06:16 PM
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Why cant you cut and double flare the 18" piece?

A brake shop will probally do it with a hydraulic flaring tool for $5-10 if you are paitent or drop it off kind of thing.
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Old 12-11-2019, 07:26 PM
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I wouldn't advise a swivel fitting, too liable to fail.
You might be able to find a Parker Hanifin outlet that can make custom length.
Or a couple of M-F 90's back to back would offset and allow you to gain/loose length or change arc enough to get where you need to be.
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Old 12-11-2019, 08:17 PM
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You have 2 90's that won'9xt work.

Cut the one 90 to 10" then double flare the end. Install a high pressure compression fitting. Cut the other 90 to the remainder you need. Turn the other 90 the angle you need. Tighten down the compression fitting.

Done.

Make sure to slide on the compression fittings before flaring.

Can do the same thing with a through frame fitting if possible.
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Old 12-12-2019, 12:35 AM
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I personally would never even consider running a compression fitting on a brake line.

John
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Old 12-12-2019, 12:48 AM
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Wrong term.

Break union. Not compression fitting.

You put the double flare up to a male/male union then tighten down the nut over that union. It works like a compression fitting but everything is solid mounted.

1/2 awake. Yea dont use a compression fittings sorry.

Use a male/male union with proper double flare angle to match union.
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Old 12-12-2019, 05:59 AM
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Have a look around here see there is some thing you have not thought of, and usable.

I would be cautious of the swivel fitting, better to have the flex in the line.


https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Searc...:Brake%20Hoses

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Searc...lex+brake+line





Pep
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Old 12-12-2019, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
I personally would never even consider running a compression fitting on a brake line.

John
We used stainless steel Parker-Hannefin compression unions in the refinery, they're rated to 10,000 PSI in the smaller brake line sizes. About 5x's what a normal "max" brake pressure runs...

Russ
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Old 12-12-2019, 07:58 AM
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Thanks for your inputs.
I tried bend the 90 degree bend a few degrees more with a pipe bender tool, and it was no problem.
Have ordered some fittings that I think will solve the problem.
Things like this are hard to explain without photos....

Not sure what you mean by compression fittings. I have NPT and AN fittings in my brake system and it have worked well for 6 years.
The problems I have now is because (stupid me) changed from standard iron GM Metric calipers to "direct bolt on" Wilwood Metric aluminum calipers. They use 1/8" NPT fittings instead of banjo fittings. This caused more trouble than I would imagine.
As always: "Bolt On" is not bolt on....
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Old 12-12-2019, 08:30 AM
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Metric to sae is always a pain, adaptors are available. Referring to a Parker catalog helps. You can download PDF versions of catalogs.
You mentioned NPT, british pipe thread is straight thread, american is tapered. I believe pitch is same.
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Old 12-12-2019, 08:47 AM
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I mis-spoke , BSP and NPT Have similar pitch, but thread is a different root angle. One may thread into another, but will not seal. BSP must rely on a seal washer or an internal flare. NPT seals by the taper on the fitting getting ever tighter as it is threaded in.
Google "NPT vs BSP" there are videos that show this.
If your caliper is metric , it is BSP, and should require washer to seal. Steel washer with imbedded o-ring or soft copper or aluminum.
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Old 12-12-2019, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staleg View Post
Thanks for your inputs.
I tried bend the 90 degree bend a few degrees more with a pipe bender tool, and it was no problem.
Have ordered some fittings that I think will solve the problem.
Things like this are hard to explain without photos....

Not sure what you mean by compression fittings. I have NPT and AN fittings in my brake system and it have worked well for 6 years.
The problems I have now is because (stupid me) changed from standard iron GM Metric calipers to "direct bolt on" Wilwood Metric aluminum calipers. They use 1/8" NPT fittings instead of banjo fittings. This caused more trouble than I would imagine.
As always: "Bolt On" is not bolt on....
There's plenty of meat in those to drill/tap straight threads for your banjo type fittings. I've plugged the existing hose threads and drilled/tapped the back of the housing near the top of the piston for clearance and to shorten the brake hose.
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