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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2006, 11:50 PM
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Its probably me just thinking too much..but the rotation of the buffer. No matter where you put it..the wheels always goes towards...but at 180 degrees rotation its going away in a continuing cycle as it spins. So how do you know which way is towards and which is away? My buffer rotates clockwise. The new clear is to the left and old clear to the right

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Old 10-17-2006, 06:51 AM
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In all reality you don't need to use a buffer at all, my blends often get rubbed out by hand after a llight sanding with 2000 or 3000.

A few things will screw up your clear blends-improper setup, poor application, and buffing while to fresh.

The blend area needs to be very very clean, some of the old finish needs to be removed first either by sanding with a fine grit paper or rubbing the area out with blend paste or rubbing compound- You can't expect to do a perfect blend over old paint with a dirty or defective surface.

The clear needs to be applied gradually into the blend area with each coat overlapping the previous edge extending further into the blend area, overspray needs to be controlled so good gun setup and handling skills are a must.

The final coat of clear needs to have a tapered blend edge and blending solvent needs to be misted on the edge to melt down the overspray. Regular urethane reducers will work somewhat but a good blending solvent works way better.

The blend needs to cure out well before any buffing is done, a few heat cycles helps. Sanding the blend area with some fine grit paper and allowing it to set or using a heat lamp and a few heat and cool cycles with speed the cure. The new clear will be softer than the old finish for quite awhile and if it's buffed to soon there is a very good chance your blend line may show especially if the buffer is creating heat during the process.

If the blend is done correctly and melted well only a light polishing compound will be needed to remove the fine sanding marks. In fact on a perfect blend operation buffing usually isn't needed at all.

The toughest areas to blend are horizontal surfaces being that overspray control is much harder, but it is doable if you have good gun control and material transfer. Hope this helps, Bob
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Old 10-17-2006, 09:43 AM
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So lets say I have to respray. I don't want to respray the whole panel again. Can I spray just the area that needs blending? The problem I see with doing that is I'll have two spots that need blending. First where the original clear is. Then where the new clear meets the previous new clear.
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Old 10-17-2006, 08:17 PM
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Yes, you can do just the area. But, you could multiply the problem (2 edges to fight with). I don't know what kind of car you are dealing with, but IMO it isn't that much work to prep a quarter for repaint. I'm pretty sure that I would just do it all. But, I'm not there and don't know your specific situation.

Oh yah! "scratch" That is another important factor. Sorry, not to mention prepping the area to be burned-in. I like to sand past the area with 2000 grit then buff it back to where I intend to burn-in the clear. This gives you a nice clean fresh surface to burn it in on. Just remember to clean the area very well before you start painting.
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Old 10-17-2006, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveli200369
So lets say I have to respray. I don't want to respray the whole panel again. Can I spray just the area that needs blending? The problem I see with doing that is I'll have two spots that need blending. First where the original clear is. Then where the new clear meets the previous new clear.
Yes, no problem but you'll have more area to melt. Use a touchup gun for better control or choke down your full sized gun for a smaller pattern and less material output- this will make for much less overspray and enable you to put the clear exactly where you want it. Have your blending solvent ready to spray in a seperate gun and when you finish applying the clear mist on one or two or three coats to melt the overspray-dry edge. The blending solvent needs to be misted on imediately after the last clear goes on. Once you learn the right way to prep and do the blend it really isn't a scary operation.
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveli200369
Its probably me just thinking too much..but the rotation of the buffer. No matter where you put it..the wheels always goes towards...but at 180 degrees rotation its going away in a continuing cycle as it spins. So how do you know which way is towards and which is away? My buffer rotates clockwise. The new clear is to the left and old clear to the right
If your buffer turns clockwise(most do) and the new clear is left and old is right. Use the top half of the buffer wheel, which is going left to right.
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