Blew a head gasket on the 454, going to rebuild it. Have questions. - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 09-12-2019, 01:52 PM
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Blew a head gasket on the 454, going to rebuild it. Have questions.

This weekend at the Rod Run to the End of the World, I was doing some burnouts and generally just screwing around and all of a sudden I started producing a ton of steam. Well its pretty obvious I blew a head gasket and I'm sucking coolant into at least 1 cylinder. Everything reeks of coolant. So we trailered the '48 (Ford 2-door sedan) home and started tearing it down.

The motor is a crate motor (casting 12550313). It's got 049 heads on it and it's not what I would call a rocket ship. In fact it's down right mellow. So my thought is to pull it out as a winter project. My plan is is to drop an Eagle Specialty kit into it. I'm thinking part number 11113060. This is a 496 kit with 4340 4.2500" crank, 6.385" H-Beam rods, 18.0cc forged Mahle pistons 60 over. Calculates to about 9.58:1. It's a reasonable price.

So two questions then:
1. Can I continue to run those 049 heads? Or should I look for something else? Skip White has some good aluminum heads that have been mentioned on here before.
2. Any suggestions on a good cam?

I'm also not sure what I am going to achieve HP wise. I'm assuming anything will be better than what I have now.

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Old 09-12-2019, 04:24 PM
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fully modified 049s can get you over 600 hp
heads need pocket porting mild port work
2.19/1.88 valves and repairs as required.
AFR 290 cc heads cost around 3k (plus check and clean up)
they can get you past 700 hp
How much you spend is up to your wallet

other matching parts also need to be changed
Camshaft
maybe headers,,,
full balance on new engine is required
freshen/detail engine
heads???
Cam and kit
7k total or what ever you dont want, minus that amount
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Old 09-12-2019, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorf View Post
Skip White has some good aluminum heads that have been mentioned on here before.

I put Skip White heads on my 454 and it performs the same as how the stock factory heads performed. So if you are looking for no HP gain, get them.
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Old 09-12-2019, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 55 Tony View Post
I put Skip White heads on my 454 and it performs the same as how the stock factory heads performed. So if you are looking for no HP gain, get them.
Thanks for this info Tony, I have often wondered about those heads. It's gonna be pretty hard to back me down off Airflow Research heads though. For a naturally-aspirated street motor of 454-468 cubic inches, these would be the end-all in my estimation.......
https://www.airflowresearch.com/265c...cylinder-head/
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Old 09-16-2019, 12:40 PM
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Thanks you guys I appreciate the advice. The 625 - 650 hp spot would be perfect. So I think at least I am on the right path with the bottom end. The advice on heads is a good one. I think I will start cheap-ish and have my 049's gone through and put them back on and put in a better cam. Then down the road look at those AFR heads.

Any thoughts on a good cam? I have no idea what is in there at the moment. Something very street friendly for sure.
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:40 PM
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A g note is not cheap to make the 049s work
AFRs (290) CCs are 3k
AFRs can tolerate more compression
do 1 or the other
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Old 09-17-2019, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vinniekq2 View Post
AFRs (290) CCs are 3k
AFRs can tolerate more compression
Sorry, just a little confused by that statement. So if I want to be able to run this off pump gas (premium) are you saying I could run a higher compression ratio and still be safe? I originally was sorta targeting low 10's:1.
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Old 09-17-2019, 10:48 AM
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10:1 range with aluminum heads, iron I believe is 9.75:1 max. Don't take that as the be all end all gospel, you may get away with more.

Mine is 10.25:1 with Brodix race rites and a 225/235 cam, don't ping and will fry the tires as long as you want. I used skip white rotating assembly, works perfectly fine.

Were the headers close to hitting anything? Most aftermarket heads use raised exhaust ports, something to keep in mind. If you're not dying to get your car running in a hurry, just save up and get the aluminums.

Do you have power brakes? That'll reign in the big cam dreams if you do. If not, converter, rear gears, and how unruly a motor can you tolerate are a very very beginning starting point. Well, converter and rear gear are mandatory items when picking a cam, all gotta work together.
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:57 PM
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aluminum Vs cast iron

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorf View Post
Sorry, just a little confused by that statement. So if I want to be able to run this off pump gas (premium) are you saying I could run a higher compression ratio and still be safe? I originally was sorta targeting low 10's:1.
as mentioned already
The GM castings can get you to 600 hp with all the correct matching parts
(I would not go any higher than 9.7:1 cr with iron heads

same engine with AFR aluminum heads can get you over 700 hp and you can safely go 11:1 cr with a well planned engine

as next poster said? silly
camshaft is not affected by rear gear ratio. Anyone that says you need more gear with a bigger cam has a lot of explaining to do to justify that to you.

rear gear coupled with transmission ratios and converter stall has to match what the car is being used for.

I run a significant camshaft with only 3.5: gears
If I had more gear the car would be a pain in the *** to drive and without overdrive I wouldnt be able to get to the mph I want
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Old 09-17-2019, 08:24 PM
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Wouldn't you want to try as best you can to keep the engine in a decent operating range rpm wise? I'd like to know why rear gears don't make any difference. Not being a horse's backside, but I am truly curious.

My car has no issues with bucking or jerking at lower rpms(driving in a parking lot for example), but my cam is tiny(225/235, .591/.601, 112lsa, 108 icl) and in a 496 bbc. I have wondered if a looser converter soaks some of that stuff up and you don't notice it as much vs a 4 speed.

Only thing I've ever seen too much gear cause is wanting to blow the car up because the engine is screaming rpm's. Been there, it sucks. Taking off is more fun though,lol.
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:27 AM
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rear gears

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dfish1247 View Post
Wouldn't you want to try as best you can to keep the engine in a decent operating range rpm wise? I'd like to know why rear gears don't make any difference. Not being a horse's backside, but I am truly curious.

My car has no issues with bucking or jerking at lower rpms(driving in a parking lot for example), but my cam is tiny(225/235, .591/.601, 112lsa, 108 icl) and in a 496 bbc. I have wondered if a looser converter soaks some of that stuff up and you don't notice it as much vs a 4 speed.

Only thing I've ever seen too much gear cause is wanting to blow the car up because the engine is screaming rpm's. Been there, it sucks. Taking off is more fun though,lol.
1 of the tracks I go to my speed at the end of the straight is 135 mph. Its a short straight. The track I want to race in Calgary the kit cars are hitting 165 mph. ( 400 hp cobras).
If l used 4.10 gears my top speed would be 127 mph at 6500 rpm with 27'' tall tires. l drive a stick car. Cam is .256/264 small block stroker,434. l used 2.73 gears until l changed out the 4 speed for a wide ratio 5 speed with .82 o/drive.
l now use 3.5 gears to match the 5 speed.
Bottom line,,,, road race car not drag race car
on street tires I have no issues against hot rods with big gears.
Would you dig against me with a truck and gears on a "street" type situation?
500 cubes with racing tires should leap with hot tires.If you do a rolling start, your gears actually work against you.

slippery converter will smooth out the parking lot for sure. I dont do a lot of driving in a parking lot. I try to stay out of traffic as it kills me sitting idling a powerful beast that wants to run
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