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Old 02-24-2007, 04:28 AM
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Block Sanding Advice - 1947 Chevrolet Fleetline (PICS)

Alright, I have a 1947 Chevrolet Fleetline, 2-door, sedan (aerosedan). I am currently taking an auto-body class at my local community college. I have taken the car part (even lifted the body off the frame) and been taking a fender at a time to my class. Here is my question:

What technique (steps) would you follow in preparing this rear fender for painting?

This is what I am doing so far:

This rear fender is in pretty good shape with minor imperfections towards the bottom where I have a few low spots. My method so fas has been sanding the entire fender down to clean shiny bare metal (36-grit). I then rough out the low/high spots with a hammer and dolly, using my palm to feel obvious imperfections. Next, I use a metal prep conditioner and lay down a coat of filler (Evercote Gold thinned with fiberglass resin). Now, I am planning on applying the whole fender with a skim coat of filler. After the filler cures, I block sand with a 6" rubber block using an 80-grit sandpaper. I do this until I barely see metal or see that I get close to the substrate. (Side note: my teacher recommended I get a flexible block to get to the curved areas better.) Once I get there, I block sand to 150-grit and then to 220-grit to prepare the fender for Valspar's Direct-to-Metal 2k primer.

Does this makes sense in skim coating the entire fender or should I try another method? I feel like I am wasting material skim coating the entire fender (and potentially the entire car) since I feel only a few spots need some attention. I just purchased a set of Dura-Blocks to get good results on the curved areas. Any experience with these blocks? Thanks..........

Images of the fender I am working on and the actual car:

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Old 02-24-2007, 08:04 AM
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Be carefull using the metal conditioner under your filler, if not done properly it'll cause adhesion problems.
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Old 02-26-2007, 09:28 AM
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nice project

Think U R wasting higher $$$ filler doing the whole fencer. IMHO get the bad lower done, let it cure, and shoot the 'good' remainder with a fast coat of black or dark grey primer. Now do a careful block sand. This'll really tell what the shape it is in. THEN decide.
IMHO the nice thing about a few slightly low spots they can easily be filled since U have good metal of proper contour around same.
Anyway, Rotsa Ruck. Glad UR taking the CC class, should really help. FYI my first 'old ' car, a 51 merc 2dr, was a project car from local CC done for the instructor. It held up quite well, paint was the low end, they used enamel and
it was hard to maintain....
Rotsa Ruck keep us posted here!!!!

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Old 02-26-2007, 09:56 AM
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I would say look into doing the metal finishing with a shrinking disk..learning that is a real plus to anyone who is doing body can work the dents out until one only needs a smidge of filler here and there..much better than smearing filler all over although lots of guys do it that way..

Learning metal finishing is a real plus on these older ones where parts may not be available or cheap..


I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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