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Old 06-12-2018, 07:41 PM
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brake trouble on 58 truk

guys i'm in a pickle. the brakes have failed on my 58 chevy truk, pedal goes to the floor type fail

setup: total rebuild of 58 truk that i got on the road in early 2011
fatman mustII ifs, not sure the total makeup of parts.
86 trans am 9 bolt, with stock iron Delco-Moraine calipers with the ratchet parking brake, no parking brake lever.
junkyard 03 mustang hydroboost/mc homemade under floor bracket using the stock 58 swing arm and pedal. 03 mustang distribution block and nissan quest remote reservoir added in fall of 2011.
new ss 3/16'' brake lines, 10 psi residual pressure valves in front and rear lines. no leaks in any line ever.

initially everything worked fine, 1.5 inches of travel to lock up the brakes. the few miles i put on it in the spring was great, still no leaks, no fluid lost. my breakin cruise was the 2011 power tour. no leaks, no problems from detroit to cocoa beach, valdosta, birmingham and nashville. south of indy i had a braided ss line leaking near the banjo fitting, this was before i had installed the remote reservoir. was able to fill and bleed the system in indy with a still leaking braided line and made it back to motown safely.

i replaced the line and added the remote reservoir july 2011. i couldn't get the brakes to bleed, wasted a gallon of brake fluid proving this. replaced the mc with an o'reilly's reman and got most of the pedal back, maybe 2" of travel to lockup. still good brakes.

fast forward to spring of this 2018, haven't added brake fluid to the system since fall of 2011. pedal has more travel, within half an inch of the floor, though i can see where the pedal has imprinted on the carpet. so off to a buds shop to try to bleed the system. we lose all pedal at this time, bought a new 03 mustang mc and regained some pedal, still almost to the floor.

1st pic is the underfloor hydroboost/mc setup with stock mustang reservoir
2nd pic is the rebuilt mc and the remote reservoir from the nissan quest
3rd pic fatman mustII ifs
4th pic engine bay showing the nissan quest remote reservoir
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Old 06-12-2018, 07:56 PM
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as stated... no leaks, never had to add brake fluid since fall of 2011
the more i look into the rearend the more i think my problem is in the rear calipers. 86 trans am, borg warner 9 bolt, with stock iron Delco-Moraine calipers with the ratchet parking brake. looking over thirdgen.org site there are a lot of problems with the rear calipers. i don't have a parking brake lever but trying to ratchet the parking brake by hand it doesn't do anything. basically i think i'm losing all the fluid to the rear calipers.

a common brake upgrade is to use gen 4 brakes on the gen 3. works great on a 10 bolt, last year of the 9 bolt was 88. even if adapt the 4th gen brakes to the 9 bolt i'm not sure they will clear the 15 inch rims that i have on truk. i was told they would not clear.
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Old 06-12-2018, 08:00 PM
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at this point i am will to try to cap off the rear brakes with 4 AN caps to see if my rear caliper assumption is correct.
does anyone know of a caliper that i can retrofit to this axle?
seeing as i never have had a parking brake, i can use any non-ebrake caliper
i will take some pics tomorrow of the caliper and take some measurements

cruising season in michigan i too short to spend time fixing stuff, i'm into my 2nd week of no cruise
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Old 06-12-2018, 08:11 PM
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Um, just throwing this out there... your situation is beyond my 100% comprehension but...

A 99-ish W body, (Imp, GP, Regal, Intrigue) can swap front brakes with an F body same vintage. Done as an upgrade, requires 17" wheel. But base W bodies had 15" steelies. Maybe the rear internal drum type park brake setup could swap on and clear? No big problems with them as far as I know. This couldn't help you with hydraulic trouble but just the only thought that popped up during the read-thru.
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:11 PM
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We have used G body front calipers on the rear of cars before. Circle track suppliers have weld on brackets to fit them for cheap. Should work fine with your rotors and existing 15'' wheels. Mounting is pretty easy. Remove existing calipers and brackets, Bolt caliper with pads to bracket, slip onto rotors, apply 125 psi air pressure to caliper hoses to square them to the rotor and weld bracket to housing. You would want to check the piston areas of both to see if they are close before you start. Mismatched brakes can cause soft/hard pedal feel and generally dont work well.
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Old 06-15-2018, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cal1320 View Post
We have used G body front calipers on the rear of cars before.
funny thing... i was out buying a g body front caliper when you typed this
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