[torakki]

I just did a base coat/clear coat and it appeared to turn out great, other than some orange peal which I expected. Paint is Restoration Shop/TCP. I like the way the paint sprayed. There where a few times I expected a sag and after it layed down, it leveled out fairly well. I'm in the color sanding stage and once the paint started to flatten out, I notice tiny pinhead size white spots. It appears that there where bubbles under the surface of the clear, that got sanded to form craters. Then the dust from sanding the clear got in the craters to form the white spots. I read a post from someone else that had a similar problem but only on the horizontal surfaces (trunk). So, I checked mine and does seem mostly on the rear trunk and not the sides (but I haven't sanded the sides yet.) I used a jewlers loop and poked the white with a needle and could see it is powder. Here's a few photos, two through the loop. One photo is greatly magnafied and you can see the shadows from the light source off to the side. So, what is a good way to fix this? Keep sanding through it? Not sure how deep the bubbles are. I'm concerend I'll hit the base coat, or more bubbles deeper down. Thanks for any ideas.

[chasracer]

It's called solvent pop if you didn't already know. Bottom-line is that you applied clear on top of coats of clear that hadn't flashed yet.


Fixing it is a PITA. You'll have to sand very, very carefully (needs to be said in an Elmer Fudd voice) until the bubbles are gone and if you don't get into the basecoat - you win! If you do well, you know where that story goes.


Good Luck!


now where did that pesky wabbit go....

[454 Rattler]

[QUOTE=chasracer;4639073]It's called solvent pop if you didn't already know. Bottom-line is that you applied clear on top of coats of clear that hadn't flashed yet.


Fixing it is a PITA. You'll have to sand very, very carefully (needs to be said in an Elmer Fudd voice) until the bubbles are gone and if you don't get into the basecoat - you win! If you do well, you know where that story goes.



I'm not what you would call a "painter" but I would like to know where that story goes.......Now what does he need to do ?


454 RATTLER

[chasracer]

If you sand into the base coat then you're looking at refinishing a good sized section of that panel to blend it in correctly. He would have to figure out how much of a section would need to be sanded down, put back in primer, base-coated and then cleared. Basically starting over again at least on that panel section.

[454 Rattler]

Ouch ! That could be a complete paint job. Thanks !


454 RATTLER

[torakki]

Yea, solvent pop sounds right. It's on the rear trunk of a 914 and it's a big flat piece of sheet metal. I layed the clear on heavy and probably went back over it before letting it flash so I would have plenty to flatten. I just did the rear 1/4 panel today and it looks great so far. Once i'm done sanding the rest of the car, I will start sanding the trunk again (carefully). A friend suggested to use a preasure washer on the trunk to clear out the white dust. If the dust is gone, it wont be so noticeable, since I'm keeping this car. If I end up repainting, I can remove the trunk and just do the one piece. Not as bad as half the car.
Thanks for the responses. I'm more comfortable with the outcome now....

[tech69]

That's really bad solvent pop. I'd just re paint it. It's going to keep dying back and dulling out if you don't. Right now you are just wasting time trying to fix something that will bother you til you fix it right. Sand it til the pop is gone and put some heat on it before rebasing or reclearing to get out any left over solvents. The more flash time you give it the more it will hold your next coat. Long flash times are very good.

[torakki]

Yea, I think I will repaint it. I have just enough paint left for a couple thin coats on the trunk. I did try a little more sanding in one area but did nothing to improve it. I'll probably keep assembling the car and remove the trunk in spring when it's warmer to paint. Thanks for the advice.

[tech69]

it's ok to hammer on the clear as long as your base is reduced right, not piled on, and you give your clear coats AND base long flash times, especially your clears and final base flash. Just don't hammer on your first coat. I was taught to go a little peely first coat, less peely second coat, and glass on your last coat. Everything mentioned with the right gun will make it harder to run it as well, given the temps are right.
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