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Old 05-08-2014, 02:30 PM
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buffing lacquer

I fixed the minor scratches and dings in my 20 year old black lacquer paint and used the gallon of dupont 99s and thinner I had to cover the car again. Please don't beat me up over lacquer. I have shot plenty of bc/cc but this was my first paint job back then. It was covered in hail and I stripped it to bare metal and learned body work on this car. It is laser straight so I did not want to strip it and start over. I buffed it with wool pads and 101s compound back then. I have the sponge pads for bc/cc that I have used with 3m system of compounds. Will this work on lacquer or should I stick with wool and a coarser compound?
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Old 05-09-2014, 05:34 AM
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Anything you use for urethane clearcoat will work fine
on lacquer. Actually, it'll work better or easier.
Lacquer is the easiest paint to buff.
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:32 AM
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Ahhhhh, lacquer, I love the stuff. Haven't used it in years though. The last one I did using the modern products worked like a charm. ESPECIALLY the sand paper, holy crap, now, going up to 5000 you almost don't even have to polish it!

Brian
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Old 05-09-2014, 04:29 PM
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Thanks guys. I am knocking the orange peel off with 1200 pretty easy may stop there. I have a yellow pad and a waffle pad for swirls. Worked on my last bc/cc black vette I painted. I like the wool and dupont compound pretty well so may use it up.
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Old 05-09-2014, 06:46 PM
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I worked as a professional auto painter from 1969 to 1980. I came in when acrylic lacquer was commonly used for GM paint repairs, Dulux alkyd enamel was commonly used for "completes" and some acrylic enamels with catalyst were used on Ford Motors vehicles. In 69 I had a black 57 Chevy I repainted (original color) in black acrylic lacquer. The original paint was nitrocellulose lacquer. This paint type tended to develop "crows feet" after a few years of sun exposure.

You can color sand lacquer with 600 grit and then use a heavy duty rubbing compound with a wool buffing pad. Watch the edges because lacquers will "burn" pretty easy. Go to a finer compound and you can do the final rub by hand. I like Meguiars products because they allow paint to "breath". When I was 21, I had a 71 Mustang fastback I painted the original blue in acrylic lacquer. It had a perfect mirror finish. After the paint had time to cure and I waxed it, I noticed tiny blisters begin to form. I used a wax and grease remover and ever since used a non-wax polish product. the blisters didn't return.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Macs-MW View Post
I worked as a professional auto painter from 1969 to 1980. I came in when acrylic lacquer was commonly used for GM paint repairs, Dulux alkyd enamel was commonly used for "completes" and some acrylic enamels with catalyst were used on Ford Motors vehicles. In 69 I had a black 57 Chevy I repainted (original color) in black acrylic lacquer. The original paint was nitrocellulose lacquer. This paint type tended to develop "crows feet" after a few years of sun exposure.

You can color sand lacquer with 600 grit and then use a heavy duty rubbing compound with a wool buffing pad. Watch the edges because lacquers will "burn" pretty easy. Go to a finer compound and you can do the final rub by hand. I like Meguiars products because they allow paint to "breath". When I was 21, I had a 71 Mustang fastback I painted the original blue in acrylic lacquer. It had a perfect mirror finish. After the paint had time to cure and I waxed it, I noticed tiny blisters begin to form. I used a wax and grease remover and ever since used a non-wax polish product. the blisters didn't return.
Used to use a heavy grit compound made by mceers in a red white and blue bucket, would apply it with a paint brush. That was a long time ago, then mabey 7 years ago was at a swap meet and found the very same stuff new in the same container and I grabbed it. Found out that it contained silca, most likly why you can not buy it anymore. Did work great with a wool pad for buffing laquer.
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:56 AM
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Thanks! I really have enjoyed doing this again. If it lasts another 20 years I will pay to have it done. Not sure I want to tackle it again when I am 88!
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