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Old 09-23-2019, 12:05 PM
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jaw22w jaw22w is offline
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I'm like techinspector1. There is a force in play here, just as techinspector1 said. I'm sure I have read something about the effect of position somewhere, but I have had them all over the place on different cars and never could tell the difference. Anyway, the installation of the rear disks is complete. I have mounted the calipers at about 4 o'clock. Getting them bled out was a pain. I had never messed with Ebrake calipers before. I finally discovered that the Ebrake arm was installed 1 flat off on the shaft. Wouldn't keep the puck tight enough to have pedal on the first shot. Fixed that and they bled right out. The kit worked, but I had to drill, cut, grind, and weld before it was over. I had to make rotor sized spacers for the calipers for bleeding them off the mount, but it worked fine. I also had to completely remove the proportioning valve from the rear system to get enough fluid back there.
Now the results. I have the best brakes I have ever had in my 1926 T coupe. Even the proportioning seems good after some hard gravel stops, which I thought might be a problem after removing the PV.
The problem is the pedal now takes more stroke. Actually seems kind of excessive. But they work good once you get the pedal down far enough. I am attributing this to the fact that the calipers need more fluid movement than the old wheel cylinder did. This is a corvette type MC (didn't change MC, supposed to be good for either) with a 1" bore. I'm thinking to go to a 1-1/8" bore MC to move that extra fluid. Pedal ratio is 6:1. The pedal moves 3" with hard pedal pressure, where the brakes would be locking up. There is no pump up, so all air is out.
Am I thinking right in going to the 1-1/8" bore MC? I think that should shorten the stroke. What should that do for the "feel"?
Like I said, the brakes are working good, I'm just fine tuning.
Oh yeah, these are manual, no power brakes.
Thanks for any input.
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