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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2016, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Well guys. It would appear to me Matt could do this for a living if he so chose.

Good job sir.

John
Thank you kindly! I'm just glad a job like this exists.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 08-26-2016, 08:05 PM
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Reminds me of a Monk with the bald spot on top...

Looks like it turned out great.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2016, 06:03 AM
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Just for fun, would anybody care to say how much they would pay to have this done?

How much would you "estimate" for the customer if you were asked to do it?

I am not hip to the money end of it, never am. But I'm curious sometimes.
That's my problem too. I'd do it for about 1000. metal work and ready for paint which would be extra but I never charge enough. usually if I double what I charge it would work out fairly well. The shop gets half of it
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2016, 06:14 AM
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There was no shrinking disc used. This is what I was talking about using a worn-out one to shrink with. Somewhat. 3" twist-lock type.



The donor roof was off one of this, as far as I know.

https://www.hotrodders.com/forum/1968...rs-424369.html

It appears to be GM as I previously mentioned. Heres whats left:



Recycling at it's best

If any of you kids try this at home, theres your guide for where to cut.


I got it like I like. I am pleased with the outcome and it was quite rewarding. A significant challenge to boot! I can epoxy and mud it as-is, or fuss over it more. Likely a little of both but here it is-




This only pic of the inside was a focus fail but the weld is ground nearly flush. I wouldn't mind going all the way flush and really fine tuning the seam.



Here, walk around and look-





I could stand to bump this high spot down but ran out of time-









So... What about that darn cat test?



Well wha'dya know? No cave! How about two cats?



Yeah but what if we put them on the weakest spots?



Cats didn't sink at all so I think it will pass. That was pretty difficult but I just couldn't see spending more than a 35-37 hr week on it. Wish the patch prep hadn't ate up so much of it.
Looks like a great job. Now the challenge will be all that bondo and primer and paint that surround YOUR work. Do you plan to strip the rest of the roof to metal and do it all at one time. Nice work its kinda fun doing this kind of work isn't it?
Q: In that fourth pic ,the one of the inside. Is that an overlapped patch about in the middle of the roof Im seeing. That would explain all the bondo

Last edited by deadbodyman; 08-27-2016 at 06:19 AM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2016, 09:15 AM
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There's nothing new that overlaps but the roof around the old hole is made in sections. I'm not sure exactly, but I think the straight areas at the sides are the piece with the hole flange, the A-pillar and front are a piece, the rear down to the trunk is a piece, and the quarters are overlapped and leaded where they tie in at the rear corners of the gutter. The panel with the hole has a vertical seam midway back, right at about the driver's head. Looks like a butt joint but not sure how it was joined. Kinda seems like a laser weld on modern stuff.

What you may be seeing inside is a small remnant of the gutter in the rear corners where the quarters overlap. They could be ground off.

So yes, lots different than just patching a normal roof hole. And yes it appears to be hammered all around the sides with dents. If I skin off the paint further down, I'll get into the heavily leaded drip rail area. Don't know what the plan is but I'd bet it is to keep what filler seems OK so I stopped there.

It sure was fun, and a challenge. Lunch and quitting time snuck up on me every day this week
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2016, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
That's my problem too. I'd do it for about 1000. metal work and ready for paint which would be extra but I never charge enough. usually if I double what I charge it would work out fairly well. The shop gets half of it
That's about what I'll get. How much the shop bill comes to is knowledge I avoid to stay sane and peaceful
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2016, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
There's nothing new that overlaps but the roof around the old hole is made in sections. I'm not sure exactly, but I think the straight areas at the sides are the piece with the hole flange, the A-pillar and front are a piece, the rear down to the trunk is a piece, and the quarters are overlapped and leaded where they tie in at the rear corners of the gutter. The panel with the hole has a vertical seam midway back, right at about the driver's head. Looks like a butt joint but not sure how it was joined. Kinda seems like a laser weld on modern stuff.

What you may be seeing inside is a small remnant of the gutter in the rear corners where the quarters overlap. They could be ground off.

So yes, lots different than just patching a normal roof hole. And yes it appears to be hammered all around the sides with dents. If I skin off the paint further down, I'll get into the heavily leaded drip rail area. Don't know what the plan is but I'd bet it is to keep what filler seems OK so I stopped there. I'll tell you something else, everyone can tell when you enjoy your work it shows in the quality of what you do.

It sure was fun, and a challenge. Lunch and quitting time snuck up on me every day this week
LOL, I usually miss lunch if theres no body there to remind me, before I know it its 2:00 and theres no sense taking a lunch then so I just skip it.
Its hard to stop, Last week I over did it and can hardly move this weekend, I was just having to much fun. my helper never did any metal working before and hes lovin it the same way, now we both miss lunch.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2016, 11:09 AM
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Man, I can't skip lunch! My backbone and belt buckle will call a meeting in the middle by 2 PM.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2016, 11:50 AM
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LOL, I usually miss lunch if theres no body there to remind me, before I know it its 2:00 and theres no sense taking a lunch then so I just skip it.
Its hard to stop, Last week I over did it and can hardly move this weekend, I was just having to much fun. my helper never did any metal working before and hes lovin it the same way, now we both miss lunch.
Huh, lunch ?, wasat...


Quote:
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Man, I can't skip lunch! My backbone and belt buckle will call a meeting in the middle by 2 PM.
Yep, that's about when I usually become aware that I've worked in the shop too long. By then, I usually just wait until the wifey comes home at 5pm and reminds me I'm starving...
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2016, 06:15 AM
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I guess that 5 min a day rule should be applied to lunch and dinner.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2016, 05:09 PM
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It looks like you did a fantastic job on the roof. Just remember....if it decides to oilcan, just add a overhead console on the inside.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-30-2016, 10:40 PM
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It looks like you did a fantastic job on the roof. Just remember....if it decides to oilcan, just add a overhead console on the inside.
Thanks! I could always fuss over it more. This week I had a discussion with the gent who will be making the interior. I asked about the headliner and we agreed to a couple cross braces that I'll make of wood. I want them in there while doing filler work. It doesn't have any little flimsy spots really but it will cave in if mashed hard enough.

Thanks for the comments guys and I'll be back one day with pics of the next stages. Be awhile yet
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2016, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Thanks! I could always fuss over it more. This week I had a discussion with the gent who will be making the interior. I asked about the headliner and we agreed to a couple cross braces that I'll make of wood. I want them in there while doing filler work. It doesn't have any little flimsy spots really but it will cave in if mashed hard enough.

Thanks for the comments guys and I'll be back one day with pics of the next stages. Be awhile yet
Would you use some kind of panel adhesive or goo (this is the technical term) between the wood and roof?

Since you're in the biz, do you know what kind of stuff the factory and aftermarket use when they bond the hood skin to the bracing below?
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2016, 06:47 AM
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There's regular goo and puffy goo, usually with braces to skin they use the puffy goo.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2016, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
There's regular goo and puffy goo, usually with braces to skin they use the puffy goo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Would you use some kind of panel adhesive or goo (this is the technical term) between the wood and roof?

Since you're in the biz, do you know what kind of stuff the factory and aftermarket use when they bond the hood skin to the bracing below?
Goo, nice. I don't know what manufacturers use. For hoods my personal preference is 3M #8374. My removable roof braces will probably just have camper tape on top. I'm not after constant support or a bond there, just enough to catch the roof if it does get mashed on.
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