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Old 07-09-2016, 03:18 PM
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Can't get car to start after new carb and dist removal

To give a quick rundown: my sbc (mid 70's 383) had an Edelbrock 1406 on it that leaked and had some other problems. Bought a quick fuel slayer 750 and had a buddy help me get it on and fix some timing issues. We had it running for that time so I'm sure the carb is good, though I've never seen the floats fill.
Distributor weights and springs were set way too light so I pulled it and put a new set of springs in (couldn't get the weights to fit right).
When we put the carb on we used the line from the pump that was feeding the eddy but it was too short and at a weird angle for a permenant solution. Got some fittings and hose and put that on.
Tried to start and she'd crank but never take. Figured it was a timing issue, so I pulled the #1 plug, verified the dizzy was pointing to #1 when I felt the compression. Even advanced the dizzy a little when I tightened it back down as my mark showed me being a little past tdc.
The only way I seem to be able to get it to start is feeding the carb directly by pouring a little gas in the float vent tube. Then it ran, albeit not great sounding, for about 15 seconds before dying. The fuel filter from the tank seems to have a bit of fuel in there and I'm at a complete loss as to why I can't get it to run.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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Old 07-09-2016, 03:40 PM
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disconnect the fuel line from the carb...

extend it into a clean clear soda bottle..

have somebody crank the engine for 15 seconds while you observe the pulses of fuel into the bottle..

each pulse should be full and equal to the other..

by the way.. just for fun... blow into the hose from the fuel pump.. you should not be able to blow backward thru the fuel pump making bubbles in the fuel tank..

if you can blow bubbles backward thru the fuel pump.. you have a sediment issue and need a 10 micron fuel filter directly before the pump.. then do the 15 second full flow cranking test 3 times .. that will usually clean out the sediment from the fuel pump..

there is a small chance you have stuck needle and seats in the carb.. you might knock the top of the rear of the carb lid directly over the needle and seats with a screw driver handle.. so you don't ding the cover but might bounce the needle and seat open.

which distributor do you have... points... chrysler electronic pickup version..

with either..you have the ability to dead stick time the engine.. set the crank to the base timing.. turn the electronic ignition distributor housing till the center of the pickup coil aligns with the fingers on the reluctor on the distributor shaft..

with a point type distributor.. set the crank damper timing mark degrees after your base timing... with the coil hooked up and the power on.. you can turn the distributor in the reverse direction of shaft rotation till the coil fires.. you will hear it spark.. you can turn it back and get right to the spot where the points open. that is where the coil will fire..
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Old 07-09-2016, 03:55 PM
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I though there might be an air leak in the line somewhere yesterday so I pulled the line from the carb and blew into it, I was able to get air through so I ended up taking the line off and putting some permatex fuel line sealer on the two new fittings I had. Haven't tried it since.
I don't have a helper but a bump start switch so I can try the line into a bottle thing.
There is a filter between the tank and pump which I rotated (arrow is still pointing to the pump) and noticed a bit of sediment but not a ton. Maybe I'll pick up a new one.
If that fails I can tap on the carb a bit and see if that makes a difference.

Not sure of the brand of dist but I know it's an HEI.
So you're saying get my tdc mark ~10-12 degrees before tdc and make sure the dist is pointing directly at the #1 plug?
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:14 PM
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the reluctor is the star shaped device on the distributor shaft.. with the rotor removed.. i thought you were working on a mopar 383 till after i posted..

this is an HEI pickup coil..



this is a small cap HEI reluctor in the middle and pickup coil around it.



you can turn your housing to align the tips of the pickup coil with the tips of the reluctor and that is where the module will fire the coil.. so if you have your crank at base timing.. you can align the tips/pole pieces and lock the distributor down and usually get it within a few degrees..

i used to do that at work... i could preset the motor by doing the reverse.. turning the crank slowly while watching for the reluctor to align with the pickup coil. if the rotor was pointing in the proper direction. i could yank out the distributor, work on it at the bench.. stick it back in.. turn the housing as described above.. even when i used my remote starter to bump it around to drop it on the oil pump shaft.. i could stop at the damper marks.. turn the housing and lock the distributor down.. reach thru the window and turn the key and the engine would start.. don't forget.. i have 36 years of doing this for a living. .

i am hoping that you did not turn the fuel filter around.. that sets dirt loose thru the fuel pump and carb..

thats like dumping the floor sweepings from the grinding shop into the gas tank to get rid of them.

replace the filter.. use a 1990 ford ranger fuel filter..



this is a 10 micron fuel filter .. there are others.. but the availability varies from store to store.. and these have a large filter inside.. will work with 5/16 or 3/8 hose using clamps..
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:25 PM
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I'll try the other things first, but will take the cap off the dizzy and look to see where things line up.
Haha no didn't flip the filter, just rotated it so I could see how much sediment had built up.
I was gonna try and run to he parts store to pick up another filter before they close and see if that helps.
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:44 PM
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Ok so, I tried the cranking the engine with the line from the carb going to a bottle and got nothing out of it. 3 sets of 10-15 seconds of cranking.
Also I tried the blowing through the line after and the only way air gets through is the 3/8 barb to -6an fitting that came with the carb, but it's through a check ball that's on it which when I cover that no air gets through.
It's interesting that I'm not getting fuel now as it was running before we took it apart. Maybe a clog settled in the tank or hardline?
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:57 PM
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take the hose off at the pump inlet..

extend that line.. or use a longer hose.. blow into that... see if you can hear bubbles in the fuel tank. i don't like sucking on the fuel lines.. i will extend the hose into a gas container.. with a pair of locking pliers.. (small needle nose vice grips handy) i blow into the gas tank thru the filler neck.. i usually can scrounge a radiator hose around the shop to do this.. fuel should start flowing out the tank thru the hose into the gas can.. if its sitting on the floor ..

do you have any gasoline in the tank..

if you have holes in the fuel lines..

if the permatex you used got into something and clogged it..

you should be able to blow forward thru the pump easily.. by hooking a hose to the inlet.. and having the hose to the carb disconnected..

if you cranked the motor.. with a thumb over the hose to the inlet. if the pump is working properly. you should create a painful vacuum on the inlet.. you can use a vacuum gauge also. if you have one..

hint. . if you end up needing to change the fuel pump.. set the engine to TDC#1.. compression stroke.. this puts the cam eccentric lobe at the least push on the pump push rod.. when putting the pump in.. disconnect the battery and pull the engine oil dipstick.. stick it straight down thru the top of the opening so you can wiggle it infront of the push rod.. you can now push the pump with the gasket glued on.. shoving the dipstick and push rod back with the pump lever and it will fall into place.. pull the dipstick and put the bolts in.. done.. no fighting.. no cussing.. make changing a pump easy.. people who say.. grease... bolts thru the front.. chisel marks.. just have not tried this .. its crazy simple. disconnect the battery as many chevys you are going right past the back of the distributor.. you don't want to short the pushrod to the open fuel lines..
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Old 07-09-2016, 05:09 PM
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I've run out of time to toy with it today but after some contemplation my money is on the fact it's sitting at an angle in my driveway with the pump above the tank and when I disconnected the outlet line (and at a separate point the filter). to replace it I lost vacuum and it can't get gas from the tank to the pump.
No holes anywhere that I'm aware of, I've looked as much as I can for them.
I've got gas in the tank for sure, I added two gallons yesterday just in case the gauge was off, currently reading a bit over half even with the slope.
I'll see if I can find something to blow into the filler neck with to try push some gas into the pickup, but with my limited resources that seems unlikely. Would pouring some fuel into the inlet line before the filter be an alternative? Otherwise I can go try and buy a vacuum pump and try and hook it up before the filter, pump until I get something, clamp with vice grips, reattach and cross my fingers.
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Old 07-09-2016, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eeeasy-tiger View Post
I've run out of time to toy with it today but after some contemplation my money is on the fact it's sitting at an angle in my driveway with the pump above the tank and when I disconnected the outlet line (and at a separate point the filter). to replace it I lost vacuum and it can't get gas from the tank to the pump.
No holes anywhere that I'm aware of, I've looked as much as I can for them.
I've got gas in the tank for sure, I added two gallons yesterday just in case the gauge was off, currently reading a bit over half even with the slope.
I'll see if I can find something to blow into the filler neck with to try push some gas into the pickup, but with my limited resources that seems unlikely. Would pouring some fuel into the inlet line before the filter be an alternative? Otherwise I can go try and buy a vacuum pump and try and hook it up before the filter, pump until I get something, clamp with vice grips, reattach and cross my fingers.


you can use a hand vacuum pump for bleeding brakes..

you can use a clear fuel filter and a bunch of vacuum hose hooked to the fuel line to the carb.. extended over to another car idling. hooked to manifold vacuum ... this will suck fuel up thru the lines and pump... hopefully you release the hose when you see fuel come thru the filter.. pinch the hose closed with the small needle nose vice grip pliers..
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Old 07-10-2016, 01:38 PM
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So I got some vacuum on the line and fuel came into the filter.
Tried cranking for 3 bursts and didn't get it to start, was about to give up but noticed the carb floats had filled. Turned it over and gave a couple presses of the gas pedal and BAM! Fired up.
Checked timing and it was spot on at 12
Drove it around the block and it all seemed good.
Parked it back in the drive way at the opposite angle it was parked at and noticed a small leak at the filter. Gonna pick up a filter that actually fits the 3/8 tube that's running as the filter in it currently is too small (connection wise).
Thanks waynep712 for all the suggestions and help it is much appreciated!
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Old 07-10-2016, 02:06 PM
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i love it when a plan comes together..

there is a 66 malibu sitting not 2 miles from me right now.. had exactly the same issue a month ago. been fighting with weird fuel system issues for over 30 years..
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