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Old 02-27-2011, 03:56 PM
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change of plans in frame design

After some considering and looking thru Cboy's journal. I have decided that the twin I beam front end from a Ford Ranger, could be a good graft in for my hotrod. the front section is 29" and the track width is 58". my current frame is 27", so I will have to widen the channel section of the cab a couple inches.. I will also re fabricate the frame horns to look old timey.. The S10 ZR2 rear is 63" so I should be able to get a rear wheel offset that will look pretty good

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Old 02-27-2011, 06:48 PM
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You can move the overlap of the axles in to match your desired width or just cut the 2 eyes off at the proper length and weld together to make a straight axle which would look good out in front of your truck. The axles are not cast iron so they can be welded.JMHO.
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:10 PM
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yep. I'v thought about the possibilitys of moving the beams in to narrow the track width. mini truckers have done that for various reasons.. welding them togther for a straight axle is another good idea... I'm going to get a donor truck I think, and use the 2.3/ 5spd, as it would be a bolt in.. I could part the rest of the truck out and scrap what little is left..
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:50 AM
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Got a front end lined up from a '94 Super Cab with somthing like 155k miles.. local dealer has it as a parts truck, but it's not wrecked. $200 ish cut out and removed. so I can't complain. I won't have the 2.3/5spd but I can get that cheap at a junkyard
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Old 03-04-2011, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
... welding them together for a straight axle is another good idea...
Before considering this alternative, make sure you take a very good look at the Ranger axles. Over the years Ford changed axle configurations from time to time so I can not say this for certain, but I don't believe welding two twin beams together into one straight axle will work. And here is why. Twin beams are NOT straight.

The illustration below is for the axle setup in my sedan delivery ('79 F-100 beams). It is looking at the axles from overhead. Note that the axles are bent, in opposite directions, in the area just about where they cross the frame rails in this drawing. In other words, the last foot of the left axle is bent slightly toward the rear of the car and the last foot of the right axle is bent slightly toward the front of the car. This is to compensate for the axles being staggered and overlapped...to keep the kingpins in line with one another.

Now, using the drawing again, just imagine the rear axle superimposed right on top of the front axle...and then imaging rotating both axles so that the main section of both axles is perpendicular to the frame rails (as it would be in a straight axle setup). As you can see, this would put the driver's side kingpin about 8 inches behind the passenger side kingpin.

As I say, the beams in this drawing ('79 F-100s) will be different from your Ranger axles, but I believe the exact same problem will exist.



That being said, what you CAN do, at least theoretically, is cut off the very ends of both axles (somewhere just inbound of the kingpins) and then weld these to a new center tube. Basically what you would be doing is just welding kingpins and spindles to a tube axle. I'm not recommending this approach, just saying it is a possibility.

Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
...I've thought about the possibility of moving the beams in to narrow the track width...
Yes, this can be done but only within some rather narrow limits. Remember that as you move the wheel INWARD, you move the axle pivot point OUTWARD. So depending on your frame width, you may have to extend your mounting bracket outside of the frame width.

The second thing to keep in mind is tire clearance. As you move the wheel inward you will have to keep in mind where your radius rods will be positioned.

Before you get too far down this path, I would suggest getting some fairly precise measurements for the Ranger axles you have in mind including the angles of those bends. Then use some graph paper to draw everything out (from both the top perspective and the front perspective) including your frame rails, radius rods and mounting points for the axle pivots. This will tell you a lot about how this setup might look and function in your application.

Hope that all makes some sense. Let me know if it doesn't.

Dewey
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:50 AM
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building axle.

Hi,when i built my 23 T roadster,i cut the spindle ends off of a 48 ford axle,ground them down to fit a 2 inch tube,welded them into place,and had the axle chromed.never had a problem.
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
Before considering this alternative, make sure you take a very good look at the Ranger axles. Over the years Ford changed axle configurations from time to time so I can not say this for certain, but I don't believe welding two twin beams together into one straight axle will work. And here is why. Twin beams are NOT straight.

The illustration below is for the axle setup in my sedan delivery ('79 F-100 beams). It is looking at the axles from overhead. Note that the axles are bent, in opposite directions, in the area just about where they cross the frame rails in this drawing. In other words, the last foot of the left axle is bent slightly toward the rear of the car and the last foot of the right axle is bent slightly toward the front of the car. This is to compensate for the axles being staggered and overlapped...to keep the kingpins in line with one another.

Now, using the drawing again, just imagine the rear axle superimposed right on top of the front axle...and then imaging rotating both axles so that the main section of both axles is perpendicular to the frame rails (as it would be in a straight axle setup). As you can see, this would put the driver's side kingpin about 8 inches behind the passenger side kingpin.

As I say, the beams in this drawing ('79 F-100s) will be different from your Ranger axles, but I believe the exact same problem will exist.



That being said, what you CAN do, at least theoretically, is cut off the very ends of both axles (somewhere just inbound of the kingpins) and then weld these to a new center tube. Basically what you would be doing is just welding kingpins and spindles to a tube axle. I'm not recommending this approach, just saying it is a possibility.



Yes, this can be done but only within some rather narrow limits. Remember that as you move the wheel INWARD, you move the axle pivot point OUTWARD. So depending on your frame width, you may have to extend your mounting bracket outside of the frame width.

The second thing to keep in mind is tire clearance. As you move the wheel inward you will have to keep in mind where your radius rods will be positioned.

Before you get too far down this path, I would suggest getting some fairly precise measurements for the Ranger axles you have in mind including the angles of those bends. Then use some graph paper to draw everything out (from both the top perspective and the front perspective) including your frame rails, radius rods and mounting points for the axle pivots. This will tell you a lot about how this setup might look and function in your application.

Hope that all makes some sense. Let me know if it doesn't.

Dewey
never thought about the beams being bent. tho as you point out, they almost have to be..
After studying pictures of the Ranger front end, I think it will work right with the stock width which is 58" track width. my cab is 48" wide, and my ZR2 s10 rear is 63" wide. so it will work just fine I think.. might remove the sway bar, and will probably use DJM dream beams ( 3" drop ) and splash coils ( 1" drop ) to make up 10" from the ground to the frame at ride height from the stock 14"




this is the pic I have been studying
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:11 PM
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some more thinking ( sometimes dangerous ). and I'm thinking of Z-ing up the frame 3-4" inside the cab, so the Z is not visible. I have room inside the cab to do it, and it would only tilt the floor a bit, which would be cool as I now have no toe board..

other thought is getting air bag mounts/ 2500 bags, and getting rid of the coil springs. that could allow for easy camber changes and getting the lowest possible ride height.. the shop I go to, does a lot of the hotrods/ customs allignments as the other shops have no clue, and are lost if there allignment machine doesn't have the vehicle listed.
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Old 03-09-2011, 05:58 PM
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a little work with the tape measure tells me I don't have enough room in the cab for the Z.. took some measurements and figured up a diagram that I transferred it to computer with MS paint..

Z will be in front of cab. if I Z it 3", then that eliminates the need of drop I beams to set the ride height at 10". but I could go more. Just not sure how much I should as the cab hangs 3" below the frame
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