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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 12:48 AM
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if spindles and I beams are worth $300 to you, then it's probably a good deal. The rear end in '79 was still 9" I think, and that is also usable.. The frame itself, would be basically scrap..

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 06:36 AM
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I think you should build a full fendered car. That way you can use donor suspension and hide the ugly stuff.
I built mine very traditional looking and without much cash outlay but a lot of labor. I started with an early econoline axle (got 2 of them for $20, sold one for $40) I cut off the leaf mounts and cleaned the axle up. It's a bit wide so I took out about 2 3/4" to make it the same width as a model A axle. I used a set of rear 46 Ford wishbones and fabbed them to mount to the backside of the axle. I got a Posies spring and a set of weld on brackets from speedway for about $150 total. Then I got caliper brackets and loaded calipers from a local supplier for the roundy round racers, less than $100. I used a spare set of Aerostar rotors that go over the hubs with a little grinding. Hose kit around $40.
So there you have a very traditional looking dropped axle with disc brakes for $270 cash outlay.
But to be fair, while you may luck out and get a tight axle, the one I used wasn't and it's in for new kingpins which will put the total over $400.

Another thing I can't say often enough and it ruffles some feathers but those stock ifs front frames almost always put the radiator too far forward for a fenderless car. They just look like a mutt to me when the radiator sticks out in front of the tires.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 06:59 AM
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does it have the stuff you need then its pay dirt.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 08:05 AM
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55 chevy truck axel

55 alive; to bad u don't live near me. I have a 55 Chevy truck frame i am letting go for $65. perhaps u can find one near u if that will work for u. Anyway good luck to u and your students.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 08:13 AM
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What parts do you have for your 32 anyway ,there is several lines of logic on

this thread that has great ideas for the project ,but need a base to go by

before making a solution,I need your equation to know what variables are in it

so the proper recommendations can be made.

example:

1.GOAL of the car,what do you want out of it

2.What do you have to start with

3.Money ,I know its a big factor

4 What would you like to have for it,parts wish ie ;disk brakes,

power steering,what for motor,tranny,rear end.

The reason is to make a brainstorming list and work with viable options that

you can use.A blue print if you will ,this way it will guide you in your thought

processes .


If you would be so kind as to fill in the blank ,everyone on here could help

more beneficently to the end result.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 08:38 AM
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farmer junk

You are in a farming area to . Here most of the trucks from the last 30 years are 4 X 4's also. and hardly any 80 Mustangs are in the yards. I have a friend that does a lot of construction Demo . farms to new houses. He has hooked us up with 2 farm wagons with usable 20's - 30's chassis, a 46 studebaker pickup.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 08:45 AM
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New York State + salted roads = early death to '70s vintage vehicles. I sold my '79 F350 in '97 to become a farm field truck. It had become unsafe to drive even with lots of my TLC and major repairs. It's still running (as of 2009) - but barely recognizable
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
You are in a farming area to . Here most of the trucks from the last 30 years are 4 X 4's also. and hardly any 80 Mustangs are in the yards. I have a friend that does a lot of construction Demo . farms to new houses. He has hooked us up with 2 farm wagons with usable 20's - 30's chassis, a 46 studebaker pickup.
Yes, I have also seen several hayracks made from 30s vintage Fords and they generally go for $150 or less. They can offer up a decent frame front suspension ect. Many of those were converted to juice brakes too.
Do you plan to sell it when you're done? I think it would be money well spent to build something that is appealing to the general masses if you are going to sell it. It is one thing to throw together a junkyard dog with all the cheap/free parts just to have a fun and safe driver but it is another whole level of build to go after a well thought out, well proportioned car that will sell well when the time comes. If you can find a study on the things ol Dad Baskerville wrote on the subject, you can get some real good ideas on proportion and visual aesthetics. He daily drove a 32 roadster for 30 some odd years and never changed much about it. It remained a timeless and awesome car through many fad changes in the sport.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willowbilly3
Another thing I can't say often enough and it ruffles some feathers but those stock ifs front frames almost always put the radiator too far forward for a fenderless car. They just look like a mutt to me when the radiator sticks out in front of the tires.
Gotta agree on this, because I have 1. Ford twin I beam can't be changed without fabrication because the engine crossmember is the I beam crossmember also... I did it only because I'm running short of time and cash, otherwise it would still be set up for a Speedway axle
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebelxt
I'm looking to build a 32 roadster. I want to put a 350 into it and will be trying to find a car from a junk yard for cheap to get the drive train. The only part I am worried about is the front suspension. What would be a cheap and simple front suspension for a open engine hot rod.

Thanks for the help all!
How about an original '32 I-beam/spring setup? They are relatively inexpensive, and super easy to rebuild/set up. And they look "right" out there in the open.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by General Martok
What parts do you have for your 32 anyway ,there is several lines of logic on

this thread that has great ideas for the project ,but need a base to go by

before making a solution,I need your equation to know what variables are in it

so the proper recommendations can be made.

example:

1.GOAL of the car,what do you want out of it

2.What do you have to start with

3.Money ,I know its a big factor

4 What would you like to have for it,parts wish ie ;disk brakes,

power steering,what for motor,tranny,rear end.

The reason is to make a brainstorming list and work with viable options that

you can use.A blue print if you will ,this way it will guide you in your thought

processes .


If you would be so kind as to fill in the blank ,everyone on here could help

more beneficently to the end result.

All I have at this point is a 350 Chevy engine I am still on the lookout for parts that I need.

I am just building the car to expand on my skills and abilities. I also want to get my student motivated and something that they will get excited about! I want just a fun safe car that has a little bit of style to it and looks good.

I was thinking a fender less car because it wound be on the more simple side to start out with. I have never done much sheetmetal work before, at least not dealing with compound curves. I am not putting fenders out of the quesion I just have no Idea how hard they are to make.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebelxt
All I have at this point is a 350 Chevy engine I am still on the lookout for parts that I need.

I am just building the car to expand on my skills and abilities. I also want to get my student motivated and something that they will get excited about! I want just a fun safe car that has a little bit of style to it and looks good.

I was thinking a fender less car because it wound be on the more simple side to start out with. I have never done much sheet metal work before, at least not dealing with compound curves. I am not putting fenders out of the quesion I just have no Idea how hard they are to make.
OK - been reading this since your first post and have some observations which may tend to upset you - a couple that I've hinted at but will expand:

- You are appear to be lacking in understanding where you want to go with this project
- You seem to have no plan beyond "I want to help some kids get an education and knowledge". Unfortunately you appear to need some car building education as well, regardless of the fact you may or may not be an accomplished mechanic or have a strong mechanical aptitude. Many here will help
- You want something safe, but have no funds to spend - not gonna happen. A safe and good looking T-bucket will be $8-15K depending on the level of refinement
- Several folks have tried to point you in a known and proven route for reasonable expense. You have, if not argued the point, virtually ignored their advice.
- Most of the folks here, especially the older ones (often with the most posts, as well) are proven car builders with 1,2 or more cars, either street rods or street machines to their credit. You are not listening.

Now that I pi$$ed you off, let me make some suggestions:

- Go to a nationally recognized car show or several like NSRA, Good Guys or Right Coast, pick up as many catalogs as possible, talk to owners, builders and suppliers and gain your base knowledge.
- Make a plan and work to it. For a new car builder, Ford Twin I-Beams are NOT the way to go. CBOY knows how to make them work. A '70's Ford truck chassis is NOT a good base for anything but a Ford pick up.
- Count your money. This is NOT a cheap pastime or hobby. Unless you have a local salvage yard that has taken you under its' wing, parts are expensive. Salvage yard parts need cleaning and refurbishing - often costs more money then new.
- Consider a T-bucket rather than a cobbled up clunker that looks like a committee of monkeys assembled. There is a virtually complete plan here on the WIKI http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...et_plans#Frame

I apologize if this appears to be "flaming" you, that's not my intent but you have distressed me with your perceived lack of direction, especially if kids are going to eventually be affected. And yes, I DO live in Upstate New York State, Saratoga County

Dave W
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 08:16 PM
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expensive old fords

Old ford bodies are expensive. Out west we have the advantage of less rust. going across nevada a few years ago we found several old bodies out in the desert. thrown away years ago. Closer to yellowstone there is a canyon filled with old tin . the heavy parts were recycled for WW II in the 40's. Today I took a different route to town thru the farm land Now !/4 of our farm land is flooded and I wanted to check out the other creeks and streams. . Saw 2 more old farm wagon parts made from old cars. 50 plus years a go we channeled a 31 chrysler roadster body on a 36 chevy 4 spring chassis and used Olds V 8 engine- trans and rear. My son found a pair of roadster quarters at the swap meet for $ 40 Make and year unknown, Similar to a 29 Ford. He picked up a cowl in the desert and now needs to build doors and the deck lit. A stated earler Cboy had built several cars from scratch. If you can find a 4 spring pickup chassis and other than a Ford body you can cut your costs and build a fun car.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2011, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
OK - been reading this since your first post and have some observations which may tend to upset you - a couple that I've hinted at but will expand:

- You are appear to be lacking in understanding where you want to go with this project
- You seem to have no plan beyond "I want to help some kids get an education and knowledge". Unfortunately you appear to need some car building education as well, regardless of the fact you may or may not be an accomplished mechanic or have a strong mechanical aptitude. Many here will help
- You want something safe, but have no funds to spend - not gonna happen. A safe and good looking T-bucket will be $8-15K depending on the level of refinement
- Several folks have tried to point you in a known and proven route for reasonable expense. You have, if not argued the point, virtually ignored their advice.
- Most of the folks here, especially the older ones (often with the most posts, as well) are proven car builders with 1,2 or more cars, either street rods or street machines to their credit. You are not listening.

Now that I pi$$ed you off, let me make some suggestions:

- Go to a nationally recognized car show or several like NSRA, Good Guys or Right Coast, pick up as many catalogs as possible, talk to owners, builders and suppliers and gain your base knowledge.
- Make a plan and work to it. For a new car builder, Ford Twin I-Beams are NOT the way to go. CBOY knows how to make them work. A '70's Ford truck chassis is NOT a good base for anything but a Ford pick up.
- Count your money. This is NOT a cheap pastime or hobby. Unless you have a local salvage yard that has taken you under its' wing, parts are expensive. Salvage yard parts need cleaning and refurbishing - often costs more money then new.
- Consider a T-bucket rather than a cobbled up clunker that looks like a committee of monkeys assembled. There is a virtually complete plan here on the WIKI http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...et_plans#Frame

I apologize if this appears to be "flaming" you, that's not my intent but you have distressed me with your perceived lack of direction, especially if kids are going to eventually be affected. And yes, I DO live in Upstate New York State, Saratoga County

Dave W

Thanks Mr.Dave..
I wanted to post this also, But since I was one of the one's he didn't want to listen to,, I figured it was a waste of my time....

My friend !!! I don't feel sorry for you, I feel sorry for the kids around you... Now if I pi$$ed you off also,, Now we are even..
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2011, 06:55 AM
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Well I feel like a complete Jack.... Well you know! I'm sorry to all the people I pi$$ed off this was obviously not my intention! I was listing to everyones advice, even if it seemed like I was not. The reason it seems like I have no clear cut direction to the project is just that, I am still trying to research and see what I want to do, and what is can't do. My intention was to not just jump into anything until I have a full plan of action. I think my actions and the name of the thread made it seem like I was just jumping into the whole process. I was not dead set on making a 32 roadster the only reason I was thinking that was the fact that it had simpler body lines.

Again I just want to apologize to anyone that I made angry. You all have been a great help to me so far and I thank you for helping me by sharing your knowledge, even when I pi$$ed you off. The last thing I want you to feel like is that you are banging your head against the wall with an ignorant ... which I agree with you all after looking back that the thread.
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