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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2011, 09:17 PM
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I like how you told me whats wrong with the set up so I dont make the same

errors.very nice.I like constructive analysis and very well stated professionally.

When I start work on my truck frame youll be one of the first I ask for advice.

The frame will be a high horsepower high torque application.

Do you work just on street rods or anything goes.

Thank You

Gen.Martok

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2011, 11:50 PM
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What I mentioned is just my opinion of his setup. What is acceptable to one person is maybe not acceptable to another. That is kind of the underlying theme of this whole thread.

If the OP wants to build a 32 Ford with full independent suspension, or twin I-beam and no fenders then have at it. Neither of them would be too challenging if you just take it one step at a time. Personally, a hiboy 32 with pushrod controlled inboard independent front suspension, a low stance and big wide performance handling tires would be very cool and very unusual. How many 32's did anybody see at the last big event with a straight axle and a four link under them? can't remember? too many to count? Nothing wrong with them, but variety is the spice of life.

BTW, a Fiero front suspension is the same as a Chevette up until 1988, the last year of production when GM redesigned it and the Fiero's finally handled well. The earlier front suspensions aren't that good for performance, and that is why parts are hard to find for the 88's, they were made only one year. GM got it right and then quit making them! Go figure...

As to me, I work on anything that is cool and has a chance of driving decently. I posted some photos on the site a few days ago of my latest project, a Jeep Wrangler R/T with full independent suspension and it's converted to 2wd. Talk about something different! And for fun I am taking it to So Cal next week on a major road trip, top down, windows out and gettin' sideways on Mullholland Highway, it don't get better than that!

Andy
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2011, 04:37 AM
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aosborn im complementing on your ability to see what I didnt.

I know some science and have trouble tying my shoes but I learn from my

mistakes,I thought it was pretty good how the rod was put together but

I am wrong about the structure.

Im planning my frame for my truck 83 Dodge Prospector 8 ft bed.

But I want to learn how to make things happen and be workable.

No disrespect intended or thought of.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2011, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by General Martok
aosborn im complementing on your ability to see what I didnt.

I know some science and have trouble tying my shoes but I learn from my

mistakes,I thought it was pretty good how the rod was put together but

I am wrong about the structure.

Im planning my frame for my truck 83 Dodge Prospector 8 ft bed.

But I want to learn how to make things happen and be workable.

No disrespect intended or thought of.
None taken General, I just wanted to state that what I wrote was just my opinion and not that I am disrespecting anyones freedom to do or build what they want. I would be happy to chat with you about your project. Shoot me an email sometime if you like, or start another thread on your project and we can go from there.

Andy
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2011, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aosborn
...I do like double shear mounts on supension linkages when possible though...
Hopefully this won't veer too far off the topic but I wanted to second Andy's comment on double shear mounts. I went with single shear mounts on my sedan delivery chassis (pic below) and I have to keep a close eye on the mounts to insure the nuts remain fully torqued. They will, over time, work themselves loose.

Because of the 4-bar geometry and space limitations on this particular suspension, a dual-shear mount would have to stick out the side of the frame rather than sitting nicely on top of the frame. So I made a calculated decision to go with the cleaner, simpler look of a single shear mount directly over the frame rail. But if I had it to do over again, I would definitely use a double shear design (and bushing rod ends rather than heims) and live with the visually less appealing look. There's just a massive amount of stress put on those mounts and dual shear is a far preferable alternative.

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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2011, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aosborn
None taken General, I just wanted to state that what I wrote was just my opinion and not that I am disrespecting anyones freedom to do or build what they want. I would be happy to chat with you about your project. Shoot me an email sometime if you like, or start another thread on your project and we can go from there.

Andy
Count on it ,I think this is in the sprite of building a 32 ford and I really dont

think Im high jack the thread,If you think I am then I apologize,But If its Ok

with the author of the original question I see very good information that could

be used for all projects,as long as we keep it on a civil level and professional

ethics.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2011, 11:14 PM
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[QUOTE=cboy]Hopefully this won't veer too far off the topic but I wanted to second Andy's comment on double shear mounts. I went with single shear mounts on my sedan delivery chassis (pic below) and I have to keep a close eye on the mounts to insure the nuts remain fully torqued. They will, over time, work themselves loose.

Because of the 4-bar geometry and space limitations on this particular suspension, a dual-shear mount would have to stick out the side of the frame rather than sitting nicely on top of the frame. So I made a calculated decision to go with the cleaner, simpler look of a single shear mount directly over the frame rail. But if I had it to do over again, I would definitely use a double shear design (and bushing rod ends rather than heims) and live with the visually less appealing look. There's just a massive amount of stress put on those mounts and dual shear is a far preferable alternative.


Most all the things I will be building Ill be making my self on mill and lathe

welding, Im hoping by the time I have all my info ill have a TIG or have one

built (im not joking).I noticed alot of Trig in the building,but some of the

definitions I dont know what you mean ie,dual-shear mount ,heims,

a wider picture so I could see more would be nice.Any input would be nice

positive reinforcement .I look forward to youre input cboy .

Thank You,
Gen.Martok
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2011, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by General Martok
...I dont know what you mean ie,dual-shear mount ,heims, a wider picture so I could see more would be nice.
Here's a wider angle shot of the front 4-bars.



Single shear generally means the mounting bolt is supported by the bracket on just one side of the rod end as shown in this picture.



Dual shear generally means the mounting bolt is supported by the bracket on both sides of the rod end, as shown in this picture of my roadster build.



In these two pictures above, you can also see the two types of rod ends. The heim joint style is shown in close up shot of the single shear mounting bracket and the "bushing" style rod end is shown in the lower photo of the dual shear mounting bracket.

The bushing style rod ends are preferred by many builders because they are quieter and absorb some of the "jolt" from the suspension to the frame. But they also require a more "perfect" mounting location since they only move in one direction unlike the heim joint which moves in almost infinite directions.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2011, 03:32 PM
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Keep going Im learning all is being assymalated, resistance is futile.

are these joints noisy anyway,and can they handle a mill pushing say around

600-700 ft/lbs of torque.Im thinking airbag route instead of shocks.

im going to make a 4 link system for the rear,I have a Dana 70,it has the

strength I need ,Drive shaft will be made of 4340 steel.if available.

4 link system what variables do I need to look at.

i like all views, feel free and speak your mind professionally please.Make

suggestions anyone.
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 03:00 PM
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For something a beefy as you are considering, look into Johnny-Joints. The 4 wheeler guys utilize them quite a bit. They have a lot of angularity, are sealed from the elements and are tough.

As you are planning your project, pick up all these books for reference.

The whole Carroll Smith series...
Tune to Win
Engineer to Win
Prepare to Win

And get Herb Adams book Chassis Engineering.
Andy
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 06-12-2011, 05:44 PM
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Good stuff ,lots of good books thanks,never heard of johnny-joints I hope

its a car thing.Engineer to win sounds good.

Caroll Smith series I dont know thaT one,but ill look it up.

This could get interesting.
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