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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2014, 09:34 AM
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Dude, it will depend on how hard you beat on the motor, revs-wise. RPM's is what kills parts. They grow exponentially heavier as the revs increase and once they reach their limit, BANG,that's the end of the ball game. With a blower motor, you don't need high revs anyway. You can get it done with a 5500 rpm rev limit, so cam the motor for an upper limit of around 5500-5800 rpm's and use a 5500 rpm rev limiter. David Vizard (an author who I heartily recommend that you read everything he has written) has taken 550 hp out of a small block Chevy for several years now with the Scat 25700P rods with zero failures. That's not to say that you wouldn't blow the motor up the first day with them, I'm just passing information for you to consider as you get aquainted with hot rod parts. The Scat rods are clearanced for the cam lobes and will prevent you from having to use a reduced-base-circle camshaft to clear the rods on a 383 build. The Scats are affordable too, under $270 for a set of eight.....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-25700p/overview/

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Old 11-20-2014, 09:52 AM
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You need to pay attention to the information being given here. Most of us have been doing this a long time. It is apparent you are new to forced induction - do your homework before buying any parts! Search this site and read, read, read. Get the right books and read, read, read. Then ask the questions. Take the advice that has been given to you so far.
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Old 11-20-2014, 11:29 AM
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As far as fuel system, a little math might be in order here. We know from experience that a motor will use roughly 0.5 (1/2) lbs of fuel for each brake horsepower hour. If our goal is 550 horsepower, then multiplying 550 times 0.5 would tell us that the motor will use 275 lbs of gasoline in one hour at 550 horsepower. Since we know that gasoline weighs 6.2 lbs per gallon, we can divide 275 by 6.2 and find that the motor will use 44.35 gallons per hour at 550 horsepower. Now, if we use a safety factor of 2:1 and multiply the 44.35 times 2, we will find that we should use a fuel pump that will produce 88.7 gallons per hour. So, the Edelbrock 1791 electric pump that flows 120 gallons per hour should meet our needs. It produces this volume at 6.5 psi, which I would consider too high for the Edelbrock needle and seat, so I would incorporate a 4.5 to 9 psi regulator with built-in pressure gauge port such as this one....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pf...v_ABoCwZLw_wcB
I would begin with the pressure at 4 3/4 psi.

I was just looking at the Edelbrock instructions for the blower. They recommend two 600 CFM carbs, with different part numbers for the front and rear carbs. Read through this......
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...SBC_130904.pdf
I don't mean skim over it, I mean sit down and really READ what they have to say.

After looking over the specs, I think I would pull back on the fuel line diameter to 3/8". Here is an example of line I might consider.....
Amazon Amazon

Here are the nuts for that line.....
Amazon Amazon

Here are the insulated Adel clamps to attach the line to the frame or underside of the car. Stay as far away from the driveshaft tunnel as possible and clamp the line every 16 inches of its length.
Amazon Amazon

You'll need a flaring tool....
TEKTON 6483 Flaring Tool Set - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com TEKTON 6483 Flaring Tool Set - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com

And a cutter....
Amazon Amazon

And a bender.....
Amazon Amazon

Here's an example of a fuel pressure gauge that I might choose, it will screw into the fuel pressure regulator.....
Russell 650390, Russell Fuel Pressure Gauges | Russell

I'd probably want to use Edelbrock's carb connection.....it also has a 1/8 NPT for the fuel pressure gauge, so you could use that connection or the one on the fuel pressure regulator for your gauge.....
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/8091/10002/-1

I like a fuel filter with a replaceable paper element such as this one.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professional...3D181517076417

I would mount one between the tank and the pump and another just before the carburetors. Keep a close eye on the one back by the pump, if you forget it and it gets clogged, it could burn out the fuel pump.

Last edited by techinspector1; 11-20-2014 at 11:50 AM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2014, 02:03 PM
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Y'all are glorious

Seriously, these tips are EXTREMELY helpful. Definitely will save me hundreds in not a thousand, maybe even two.

That fuel setup is great, thanks tech.

And those rods look like they'll be perfect.

Here are some pistons I found-Pistons

These SHOULD work with those rods, am I correct?

NOW for the drivetrain, (I'm not moving on so much as just getting as many suggestions from people who have actual experience as possible, I'll do basically everything y'all tell me to do, trust me XD)

Here are the parts I have currently-
TH400 Tranny
Torque Converter
Differential (Although that was a differential carrier, any difference? Any suggestions?)
Axles

And I need a ring and pinion kit as well..... Anyone see any problems?

(Again, I thank you all for all this help and time y'all are taking for me, and I'll say again I'm still just a teen hot rodder)

YES I am new to boost, and really I'm new to in-depth mechanics. I've only built two small blocks that ran, and I have NO IDEA how to do nitrous (don't exactly feel like dealing with HIGH explosives...cause gasoline is totally fine)

YES I am new to hot rodding
And YES I can be arrogant sometimes, sorry for that, guys.

Does anyone have any opinions on electric exhaust cutouts?

And also, does anyone have an opinion on how I should do electrical?

Then another thing- IGNITION.
I have a full MSD system as of right now, here are the links-
Ignition Module(box)
Distributor
Igniton Coil
I need wires, plugs, and I think that should be it....

~J
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-20-2014, 02:32 PM
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As far as nitrous goes, it is easy if you know what your doing. But forced induction is less hassles. Put them both together and go for a good ride.

Nitrous is non-flamable. It is not an explosive gas.
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Old 11-20-2014, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 33Willys77 View Post
As far as nitrous goes, it is easy if you know what your doing. But forced induction is less hassles. Put them both together and go for a good ride.
Nitrous is non-flamable. It is not an explosive gas.
Yep, if I remember correctly, N2O is 64% nitrogen and 36% oxygen. Air is about 21% oxygen. It's the additional oxygen in N2O that is able to burn (oxidize) more fuel and make more power.
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:23 PM
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The SRP pistons are perfect for your application, good choice. The SCAT 25700 rod is also a great choice.

Since you are planning to replace axles and buy a Positraction differential, I would suggest going to the stronger 30 spline axles, as they are a simple swap if you are doing both the axles and posi differential at the same time. Pretty much makes your 10-bolt just as strong as a 12-bolt(12-bolt is 30 spline). Eaton, Moroso, and Yukon all make a stronger posi than Auburn does, and they can be rebuilt, the Auburn cannot. Check Yukon for the axles also.
Randy's Ring & Pinion is a real good source. RANDYS Worldwide Automotive

If you plan to race this at all, I would say that C-clip Eliminators for the axles would be mandatory also.

Make sure the torque converter you get has anti-ballooning plates on it, just like a nitrous ready converter has...supercharging is just as hard on the converter. Get the largest tranny cooler you can fit on the car, lots of power and higher stall makes more heat, high heat kills transmissions.

You may find you'll need a different coil, something like the MSD HVC or HVC-2(the Blue ones, for use with 6 series boxes), but you can try what you have first.

I find the electric cut-outs a bit gimmick-y...and real expensive. They eat up a lot of room under the car also. I've always just built my own, with a 3-bolt cap on them(just like you can buy), but I put the cap on the straight-out leg, and put the regular exhaust on the y-side pipe, pointed in toward the driveshaft tunnel....works out great and fits real nice that way, and works like a header extension when opened up. I only use them on the Dyno or at the track, I don't run them open on the street.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
I find the electric cut-outs a bit gimmick-y...and real expensive. They eat up a lot of room under the car also. I've always just built my own, with a 3-bolt cap on them(just like you can buy), but I put the cap on the straight-out leg, and put the regular exhaust on the y-side pipe, pointed in toward the driveshaft tunnel....works out great and fits real nice that way, and works like a header extension when opened up. I only use them on the Dyno or at the track, I don't run them open on the street.
See the fuel filler cap on this '49 Ford?
http://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/w...ear-detail.jpg
We used to go to the boneyards and buy the cap and filler pipe that went to the tank. We'd cut a hole in the exhaust pipes up by the motor and weld these pipes on, with the chrome twist-on, twist-off cap positioned so that we could open the door, reach down and take off the cap. The gaskets didn't last long, but they were cheap, or you could make black rubber gaskets from an old tire innertube. Cool beans.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
See the fuel filler cap on this '49 Ford?
http://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/w...ear-detail.jpg
We used to go to the boneyards and buy the cap and filler pipe that went to the tank. We'd cut a hole in the exhaust pipes up by the motor and weld these pipes on, with the chrome twist-on, twist-off cap positioned so that we could open the door, reach down and take off the cap. The gaskets didn't last long, but they were cheap, or you could make black rubber gaskets from an old tire innertube. Cool beans.
Funny you should mention this, Inspector....First set I ever built in 1987 was the same deal, using the gas tank filler pipes from the mid-late 70's Ford LTD/Thunderbird.....With a friend riding shotgun, open the door and reach under the sill, pull the caps, drive around the block and rattle the windows and thrill the troops at the hang-out ...them cap them back up before the law arrived.
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:57 PM
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Wow guys, all VERY good ideas...
And what's the problem with having one gimmicky toy on my car? You gotta have at least one don't you? I mean it is a hot rod and we like to personalise these things. (that is hot rodding isn't it? making cool, personalised cars?)
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Old 11-20-2014, 09:14 PM
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Wow guys, all VERY good ideas...
And what's the problem with having one gimmicky toy on my car? You gotta have at least one don't you? I mean it is a hot rod and we like to personalise these things. (that is hot rodding isn't it? making cool, personalised cars?)
Hey, just my opinion on the electrics is all, just to point out the cost and how much space they eat up....If you like them, use them

My only worry would be one would fail "open" and you'd be stuck with the noise until you could get home. Electric parts and heat don't play well together sometimes.

Just opinion, is all. No worries
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Old 11-21-2014, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ericnova72 View Post
Hey, just my opinion on the electrics is all, just to point out the cost and how much space they eat up....If you like them, use them

My only worry would be one would fail "open" and you'd be stuck with the noise until you could get home. Electric parts and heat don't play well together sometimes.

Just opinion, is all. No worries
Yeah man, I was joking completely! I do agree with that, but hey, I want my car to be MY car, that's all. I'm sure we all understand?

Plus what size driveshaft will I need?
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Old 11-21-2014, 09:40 AM
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Plus what size driveshaft will I need?
Here's my best advice. When it comes time for a driveshaft, get on the phone with these guys, give them all the dope on what you're doing and have them build you a driveshaft and mail it to you.
Driveline Parts: SFI Foundation, Driveshaft, Yoke, Universal Joint, Custom Driveshaft
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Old 11-21-2014, 01:53 PM
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The list

Will do!

So guys, HERE is the Official List of parts I have at this point-

Supercharger w/ Carbs (thanks Inspector)
Edelbrock Heads
Edelbrock Roller Rockers
Harmonic Damper
Crankshaft
Camshaft
Timing Set
Pistons
Connecting Rods
Tranny
Torque Converter
Flexplate
Differential
Axles (I'll measure what size I need)
Ring and Pinion Kit
Driveshaft
Shocks
Fuel Pump
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Ignition Box
Distributor
Ignition Coil
Starter

And then some other necessities such as guages, cutouts, electrical stuph, and things like that.
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Old 11-21-2014, 04:08 PM
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List is good, just needs a couple little revisions.....

Connecting rods should be bushed versions, to match well with the SRP pistons which are set-up for floating pins. Drop the "P" off that part #.
You may also want to consider #25700716, which have bigger and much stronger 7/16" capscrew bolts, compared to the standard 3/8". Rod bolts are the most highly stressed fastener in the entire engine, so overkill in a supercharged engine wouldn't be a bad thing. It's up to you.

The linked Red HVC coil is for use only with 7,8, or 10 series MSD boxes and will burn itself or the 6 series box out....you need one of the two Blue versions.

The driveshaft company you choose may suggest a rear pinion yoke upgrade to fit the large 1350 series U-joints, depending on what diameter shaft and strength requirements they suggest, so ask them about that. I believe your Camaro has mid-size 1330 series stock IIRC.

Denny's Driveshaft is another very good source, I've had them build half a dozen over the years, all were flawless.
Dennys Driveshaft and Driveline Parts High Speed High RPM Balanced Steel and Aluminum Drive Shaft Specialist

A rear cover girdle for the rear end would also be a good idea, especially of you are going to use a sticky tire.

What do you have planned for traction bars?? Cal-Tracs are the best idea there.
http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html
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