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Old 09-15-2019, 08:44 PM
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Coil springs on a 1946 Ford axle

Anybody use coil springs on a ford I beam axle. I'm thinking instead of the transverse leaf spring using coils outside of the frame and using the spring perch holes as mounting points, or just to the inboard of them on the axle. I have a '46 ford I beam and the perch holes are spaced out wider than say a model a axle. Just something different, using whats on hand. I believe that Ford I beams are forged steel so they can be welded to.
I'm thinking welding spring perches to the axle and upper spring "hats" to the frame.
The car's name will be "But, ugly?" See where I'm going
Any thoughts?
Thanks

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Old 09-15-2019, 09:45 PM
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I don't see anything wrong with using coil springs with a straight axle, but personally, I would resist welding to the axle. I think I'd figure out a way to clamp some perches in place.
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:52 AM
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Yes tech has it dead on. I know with the 50's chevy 5100 axle that I had that thing was cast with around a 2x3 perch mount that would need to be bolted to then bolted to again.

I would be concerned about axle twist and want both upper and lower mounts at the perch mount by the means of a parallel 4 link with a pan hard bar and cross over steering to minimize the deflection of the cast axle.




Actually if I was building something called "Butt ugly" with coil springs I would grab a 2wd jeep Cherokee front axle.

They are both cheap to find and cheap to run. Your coil mounting flanges are set up and you can modify the link tabs to easily have the links anywhere you want.

Below is an ebay ad to just show what I am talking about. If it expires it is just showing a bare tube for $100.

https://www.ebay.com/i/183483120080?...SABEgJlxfD_BwE


The real win with using this axle is that everything on the ends is both cheap and up gradable. You will be able to find parts for years without being at the mercy of just a few companies like you will with an older original cast axle.


Kind of curious what "Butt ugly" is using for a cab.

Maybe a late 70's Chevette you found in a field for $50 with good glass. Brace the cab cut out the floor install a frame that z's in front of the cab and basically Z it again behind your seat so the thing is lowered. Cadilliac 500 or other big block up front to a th400 to a 9" turning some 12" wide slicks tucked inside that shell of a body held together by your double z'd frame and cage.
Exposed front in front of the cab, air cleaner sticking 1/4 the way up the windshield, some unique wheel covers and head light buckets, etc.

Floor will be cut all to heck to do this. But with something like a Sh. box economy Chevette the thing was destined for the crusher when it left the factory floor anyway.
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Old 09-16-2019, 07:21 AM
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lincoln I beam

I have a late 40's Lincoln I beam. It is wider than fords and has the big Bendix drum brakes. The casting has an extra bump that looks like it could be drilled for a spring perch inboard of the perch holes.
I think a torsion bar front suspension would look better. and you would have easier ride height adjustment. I saw some neat T bar front I beam suspensions at Bonneville last year.
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Old 09-17-2019, 07:42 AM
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Thanks for the input, lots to digest. It's time to go back to plan A and leave Wiley Coyote engineering behind. Plan A is a Mustang II IFS. I saw a T-bucket on another rodding website that had Mustang II IFS with stock upper and lower a arms and was described as "butt ugly" hence the name. I prefer "industrial look" (LOL) The body I have in mind is a Frankenstein Center door Model T sedan. I have a rear window section for a center door sedan plus enough other model t and other brands to start. I'm thinking along cboy and New Interiors way of building a frame work from steel with wood here and there as needed. I'm lucky enough to have a friend who is a master wood worker, and one of a few in Ohio trained and qualified to work on Dodge Vipers. Thanks again!
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