Collapsible rigid spray booth
I have gotten a lot of information from this group and always appreciate when someone posts their design for me to get more ideas so I thought I would share. This is a 7'W x 10'L x 7'H collapsible booth. It is a positive pressure design and works rather well in that I smell very little in the garage. Still looking at improving the seals, for example I do not have a good way of making the seal from the panel to the garage floor since our garage floor is rather uneven. Thought of using a garage door seal but since the top of the booth is starting to press against the garage door opener arm I canít afford the increase in height.
It is made out of metal studs (2.5" x 1.25") and plastic cardboard (Coroplast) all from home depot to keep the panels light. I have 4x 4' florescent light fixture in the wall segments (made a mistake here in not raising them higher in the wall) and the wall segments are electrically connected with regular household power plugs. Used flexible aluminum conduit inside the walls to route the wiring and keep it protected. I covered the self-drilling truss screws that hold the coroplast to the metal framing with white duck-tape to help make sure that when I slide the panels I don't hook the coroplast on anything. There are wood studs fit into the right and left wall ends, door, and fan openings to help make it more rigid.
I use 8 threaded bolts with knobs to screw the panels together, although I am modifying these to be more of a crank handle design since it is tedious to tighten them with just a knob. These bolts screw into a T-nut on the inside of the wall studs; I figured they had more holding power then threaded inserts. Another mistake here, secure the T-screw in the wall (metal plate behind it) since in the process of screwing the panels together I managed to push 2 of them out when I pushed the bolt into the wall thought the teeth on the T-nut would be enough but I was wrong, so these holes now have threaded inserts. I used a screen door latch to close the door. Used poplar on the door since pine was not strong enough to close the seal around the door.
2 box fans supply the air flow and are mounted in some frames so that I can slip them in and out of the wall easily since those are stored somewhere else, I wanted to make sure there were minimal protrusions on the panels when sliding them next to each other for storage, of course the power connections on the short walls still hit so maybe pass them out of the top if possible. With the filters in front of the fans there is just enough air flow, didn't realize how much air those filters would restrict. The air flow is not hard enough to disturb the spraying but hard enough to get the fumes out rather quickly. At first I thought I might need louvers in front of the filters to redirect the air flow but that was not necessary. I had a filter on the exhaust opening but this restricted the flow too much so instead I have a 5' section of 10" vent ducting pipe to get the fumes farther outside and no filter.
There are two roof segments to make it easier to store and install. I designed the roof to be secured to the walls with internal, to the booth, hardware since I was not able to easily access the top of the roof while in was assembled in the garage otherwise I would have just used threaded knobs from the top. I have two bathroom IR heat lamps on a metal stud under the roof to provide heat, gets hot rather quickly when the fans are off.
It is stored by unscrewing the panels and then sliding them next to each other, they are not very heavy but they are a bit large so they are more just a bit unwieldy. Assembly and dis-assembly take about 20-25 minutes. I passed the air line into the both with some air tool fittings. I think I covered everything but if not let me know. It cost me about $700 to build but you might take about $100 off for some mistakes I made in the design.