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Old 11-11-2011, 04:22 PM
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connecting rods

what kind of rods to go with on a 66 327 that was running 10's it need a rod should i buy one or just replace them all i am trying to spend as little as possible info would be great

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Old 11-11-2011, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcn71nova
what kind of rods to go with on a 66 327 that was running 10's it need a rod should i buy one or just replace them all i am trying to spend as little as possible info would be great
The '66 327 came w/small journal (and possibly the small 11/32" rod bolt) forged I-beam rods. But if this engine was running 10's, I doubt the stock rods are still in it. And when a rod goes out bad enough to need replacing, it's rare that there's absolutely no other damage that was done.

You need to pull this engine COMPLETELY apart, measure and inspect EVERYTHING, and after assessing it, decide how to proceed. Trying to build or "rebuild" a 10 second-capable engine cannot be done successfully by replacing a rod here and a piston there and a bearing set over yonder! That is, if you expect it to run to its potential and to be reliable.

IMO you need to quit thinking "cheap" and start thinking "do it once- and do it right".
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Old 11-11-2011, 04:41 PM
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rods

the engine is apart and everthing is fine it has trw stamped on the rods i am going to do new bearings and rings
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Old 11-11-2011, 05:38 PM
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To my knowledge, TRW only marketed "remaned" stock rods for shops that didn't have a Sunnen hone. You could have a shop like me re do the big end of your rods and install some good bolts, provided the one you say you need can be saved. A good job will cost you about $200, depending on bolt choice and what needs, if anything, to be done to the small end. OR...for an extra $100 or so, get a set of Eagle or Scat H beams and be done with it. I hardly ever do rods anymore unless it's for flatheads or Y blocks or other specialty engines. New reasonable quality rods for current Fords and Chevys are just too cheap to compete with.
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Old 11-11-2011, 07:00 PM
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Also....If this 327 is truly a 10 sec. engine it is seeing some high rpm's, if you replace 1 rod you will throw it out of balance. High performance doesn't come cheap, you can get away with some cheap stuff but when it come to high rpm's you want the reciprocating assembly balanced as well as possible.

You may get away with balancing the one replacement rod to the other 7 but it's not the right way to do it if you plan on twisting the chit out of it. Best bet would be buying a set of Scat rods and getting the whole sheeeebang re-balanced, then you're good to go.
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