[deadbodyman]

is your V belt pully aluminum or steel ? I may just give up on the skate wheel and use some feed rollers for comercial wood planer and table saws. its a bit softer material but I dont know if thats good or bad.

[John long]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

I got my roller skate wheel and giant washer together to make a tipping wheel but I dont see how I can mount the wheel on the roller the wheel has bearings and is mounted on a 1/4" shaft so how do you get it on the bead roller shaft? also if the skate wheel and the tipping wheel are not the same size they'll turn at different speeds so the skate wheel should be free wheeling? with bearings? how about some pics and explainations..on the tipping wheel.

Originally Posted by timothale

I stopped at a skateboard shop in town and didn't find any wheels I liked. I ordered 2 wheels from reid supply. I don't know which is which . Reids part no 1 US-105 and part no 1AU-824.
The orange one is the one I use. It is a tight push on to the harbor freight 22 mm shaft . I was looking at drilling a washer and bolting it in place of the harbor freight cutting die BUT I ordered a V belt pully from Surplus Supply with a 22 mm bore to fit the HF shaft , then turn it down on the lathe. It is shown on the pict in my post 47 when I put it on the shaft for a trial fit. I can't find the invoice from surplus for a part no.

I bought a cheap 8 dollar drill bit from Ebay. I think mine was 22 mm too but don't remember for sure. Ace hardware had bearing shims that were 1/32 thick if I remember and I sandwich the skate board wheel between the shims to keep from moving but like Timothale says, it is a very snug fit and does not try to slip on the shaft. I also bought a couple of collars with set screws at Tractor supply to use as spacers.

You guys know how frugal (favorite word) I am. I bought 4 used skate board wheel on Ebay for 3.85 if I remember.

Mike what are you going to use for a hub for your upper die?

BTW Don't sharpen it to much, It will cut into the metal and make it weak. You don't want the metal to crack there later on.

John

[John long]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

is your V belt pully aluminum or steel ? I may just give up on the skate wheel and use some feed rollers for comercial wood planer and table saws. its a bit softer material but I dont know if thats good or bad.

Again, I bought a small V-belt pulley from Ebay. About 6 dollars if I remember. It is cast iron.

I no longer own a lathe. I hogged mine of with my Plasma cutter. It is ugly but it is functional.

John

[deadbodyman]

I was planning on using a sprocket hub (without the sprocket) from surplus supply and welding the washer to it ,it has the set screws and the right shaft size.
I'm having trouble figuring out how to mount the skate wheel ,I do want it to go on and off easily with set screws like all the other rollers and it has to end up the right size or one roller will spin faster than the other...the more I think on it the more the feed roller sounds like a better way to go...getting the rubber mounted to a steel center piece that fits the shafts should be fairly ez then I just have to turn the whole thing down to the proper size....I stole the kid next doors skate board ....he's a PITA anyways.....little teenage mutants...
I'm just kiddin.....I didnt steel it .....first I ran over the dam thing with my car then waited for him to throw it in the trash....after he got out of the hospital.....He was on it at the time.....

[timothale]

My"skate board wheel" is just a hard push on the shaft , and a hard pull by hand toget it off. My v belt pulley is cast steel or iron .

[John long]

Originally Posted by timothale

My"skate board wheel" is just a hard push on the shaft , and a hard pull by hand toget it off. My v belt pulley is cast steel or iron .

Ditto, Exactly the same for mine.

John

[deadbodyman]

So you guys just drilled out the guts and just used the urathane wheel part? a friction fit? gotta pic?

[John long]

Originally Posted by deadbodyman

So you guys just drilled out the guts and just used the urathane wheel part? a friction fit? gotta pic?

100% correct. It is centered with spacers and the end bolt so it can't be forced sideways.

John

[deadbodyman]

Got it,Thanks....

[timothale]

Lazze sells a bead roller that you can adjust the shaft in and out to easy align various dies. I have been looking at farm equipment splined PTO shafts, but was still looking when I ran across this Utube, but they still need to add the grease zerks. and the spring lift and quick release is easier than the one I built

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ra2-A-IuT-Q

[MGK]

John, I still have my old door operator and am interested in possibly building a bead roller.
A few questions:
Are your shafting, gears, bearings, and frame bracket all "homebrew"?
You mentioned a joggle die, is it a standard die to fit 22mm shaft? Are they pinned or keyed?

Most door motors are capacitor run motors, and are only intermittent rated, do you have any heating issues with extended run times( since you slowed down the die speed) ?

[John long]

Originally Posted by MGK

John, I still have my old door operator and am interested in possibly building a bead roller.
A few questions:
Are your shafting, gears, bearings, and frame bracket all "homebrew"?

All of the above are Harbor Freight original pieces that came with the bead roller. I mounted the motor with muffler u-bolts if I remember correctly

You mentioned a joggle die, is it a standard die to fit 22mm shaft? Are they pinned or keyed?

The HF bead roller has flats machined on the shafts and set screws hold the roller.

Most door motors are capacitor run motors, and are only intermittent rated, do you have any heating issues with extended run times( since you slowed down the die speed) ?

I have, on two occasions, run into the motor deciding to take a break and cool off. but normally you don't run a bead roller for long periods of time. It has never been an issue.

BTW, I did drill my bearing blocks and add Zirk fittings.

Hopefully this helps some.

[MGK]

Thanks John
I thought the main section had a chinese look to it.
The motor heating is caused in that type of motor by the capacitor value. In a split phase motor, the start winding is only used during initial spin up. A capacitor run motor does not use a start switch, instead the start winding is left on in series through the capacitor. This adds extra torque, but also added heat. The capacitor value could be altered, changing the amount of current in the start winding.
Not sure which way to go numerically in value, but a clamp on ammeter to the capacitor lead would tell the increase/decrease from the original value.
I found this when the oil started to leak out of the capacitor can on my opener. I had a similar capacitor of a different value, and substituted it. The motor bucked and hummed a lot more as ot ran. So I paralleled a second one of that same value. And that tamed it down good enough to get a new one of the original value.

[John long]

Originally Posted by MGK

Thanks John
I thought the main section had a chinese look to it.
The motor heating is caused in that type of motor by the capacitor value. In a split phase motor, the start winding is only used during initial spin up. A capacitor run motor does not use a start switch, instead the start winding is left on in series through the capacitor. This adds extra torque, but also added heat. The capacitor value could be altered, changing the amount of current in the start winding.
Not sure which way to go numerically in value, but a clamp on ammeter to the capacitor lead would tell the increase/decrease from the original value.
I found this when the oil started to leak out of the capacitor can on my opener. I had a similar capacitor of a different value, and substituted it. The motor bucked and hummed a lot more as ot ran. So I paralleled a second one of that same value. And that tamed it down good enough to get a new one of the original value.

I can't offer you any advice. You are more knowledgable than I am. All I can offer is my experience which has been very satisfactory using the opener.

I really believe the variable speed drill motor may be worth investigating. It would be variable speed also. Others have used them successfully.

John

[timothale]

In my post 70 I linked to info from Jere, He has a new video on how to modify the cutting dies. I have got a few free or $20 treadmill motors to use on various pieces of equipment They are high torque at low speed variable speed. some have easily adapted speed controllers. the std controller has a safety characteristic that has a 0 speed each time it restarts that can be modifed