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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2006, 07:26 PM
 

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I went to a maaco and talked to a guy about the products he's using just to get some insight, he said that he pays $40.00 for a kit of clear with the activator. for over a gallon of clear that's some awfully cheap paint given today's standards.. I wouldn't want it on my ride, well I take that back If it went on my escort i'd think about it, but at the same time the escort is not worth the $225.00 that they would want to spray it.. lmao...

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2006, 07:58 PM
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They buy in bulk, so they probably get a decent discount, but even still, sounds aweful cheap. I wouldn't put the life expectancy too long on it myself, or trust them to do anything but cheap and dirty repairs, but its a franchise so maybe there are some that actually like working for free or use decent products on some jobs. If it was something someone just wanted to unload and let someone else worry about problems, I could see it maybe. But I know even the cheaper products like omni and marhyde, western, ect can be made to look pretty good, and will last a fair number of years if the prep is done right/ instructions are followed so would recommend that to someone who was willing to put in a little muscle and time to do the work. Even a new painter with no gun time can paint as well as what I've read often coming out of the maaco shops running 10 cars in and out of the booth a day. The paint used will probably be of better quality for not a ton more in materials. Who knows, with some practice using the gun, may even turn out an excellent finish that a little wetsand and buff will make look almost flawless. Even if you have to buy tools, you can get by with a little less and still get pretty good results, and always use them for other things, or possibly rent some of them. Also can take the time to do a good job buffing out flaws if its nothing too serious and have a better looking/lasting job. JMHO.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2006, 11:38 AM
 
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boonstein

Warrant, you have to start somwhere so good luck. Don't take short cuts on your body and prep work. The best painter with the best paint and equipment can't make poor body work look good. Go with bc/cc because you can color sand and polish out a lot of mistakes if you take the time to do it.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2006, 03:17 PM
 
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do it yourself

i got my butt ripped by suggesting macco i first should have asked,were they painting there dream car or just try extending the life on a beater....i'll stand my ground that you cant beat their deal on putting something together just to sell. but i do all of my own prep and repair work,,,i paid $200 each for three different cars...had i painted and i would have paid at least half that for materials...and time is worth something..but you must agree a beater do'es not need a 10 year paint job..
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2006, 03:35 PM
 
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do do it it yourself yourself

something went wrong there,sorry....i hit the submit button once and nothing happened...my confuzer has been running slow the last couple of days i wonder if two programs are running at the same time???? thanks jb...do
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2006, 08:23 PM
 
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paint cost

i just bought the new viberance ppg oh so sexy red candy and it ran me 1300 for all the paint supply primer hardner
paint clear reducer ect. i am painting a 23 t bucket so does this help
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2006, 11:18 PM
 
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do it yourself

sure does help,,,but if you already bought the paint ,,my guess is you already know how much it cost..my advice is if this is your first paint job make sure it don't cost you $4600....myself when i first started ,,i bought some books read them ...asked lots of questions and did lots of practice before i wasted lots of money....the biggest thing i learned is no two answers are the same..second was don't get in a hurry...if you have questions i'll be happy to try and help ...and don't ever think there is a dumb question....those materials cost way to much to waste ....good luck jb..
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2006, 11:45 PM
 
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cost of paint job -do it yourself at home

i think there is some confusion on the original question and who asked it if i remember right it was a young guy with a nova ??????
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2006, 07:59 AM
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I'd use something like Maaco if you didn't have the tools to paint with -- good compressor and gun. They do have lots of experience in spraying. I've got good results from them, with two paint jobs using their paint lasting about 6-7 years before a little fade starts to show. But I don't wash an wax like I should -- a good wax mybe once a year, but at least every other year...

My secret is I've always done 80-90% of the body/prep work before taking a car over to be sprayed. I've also stripped everything that would easily come off before I evne took it over. I drove a 63 Rambler to the Earl Scheib in Boise, ID, from Mtn. Home (an hour drive up the interstate!) back in 1984 with no trim or bumpers. Just the headlights were on the front and tail lights in the back. I had my phillips screwdriver with me to remove the taillights when I got there. They were surprised to see the car all sanded and just about ready for paint! They went over it with 600 grit and youched up a few spots, masked, and sprayed. When I called a couple days later they said it was done but there were a few places that still showed some scratches and they'd like to put another coat on it. I asked how much, and the manager said I did so much work and it looked so good there would be no charge! I had the same car painted again at a Maaco about 10 years later (paint was getting a bit faded by then). I did the same thing -- prepped it real good first. The quicky/cheap shops will take a lot more care with your car when it's obvious YOU care about it and do a lot of the prep work before you take it in.

Just don't touch the bondo if you don't know how to use it! One guy did some of his own body work and brought the car in while I was picking my second job up. He'd caked it on pretty good and wanted them to take it down smooth. He didn't like the price they gave, and the manager explained that the work he did would be more work for them than if he'd left it alone! The customer was a little torqued because they'd told him if he did some of the body work he'd get a better price than the one he got earlier, not worse!! Better to have not enough that they can bring up to level than to much!
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2006, 01:56 PM
 
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ppg paint

i have used ppg deltron for all my projects it lays on nice and always looks good. i painted my boats and love how durable the the finish is to rock chips and simple scratches. on my boats i have done i walk across the bow with sandy feet go home buff it and it looks good. one day i might try another brand i am thinking of house of colors or dupont hot hues but why change something that really works the draw back is the cost.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2006, 03:14 PM
 
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paint

i have used several brands and what i noticed is most brand's have a couple of lines ...cheap stuff and good stuff and sometimes something in between...my personal choice for one step is dupont imron,,and even that has a couple of lines to it ...that was what my kenworth was painted with and the build sheet said premium paint..truck builders only use bc/cc if it is ordered,everything else is one step and the paint has to be good to hold up.. imron is also used on aircraft must be good ..i painted my caddy black with imron then sanded and buffed it looked good..jb
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 05-09-2006, 01:06 AM
 
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I use napa line of cross fire, they do have another higher line of Tech base, but the cross fire usually for paint alone bc/cc cheaper line is about 365.00 with san dpaper, and gal primer 43.00 about 600.00 without labor. depends on where u buy and what line.
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 07-13-2006, 02:14 PM
 
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hey man i painted my 1957 station wagon last summer in about two weeks working 4 hours a day but that has tons more glass to mask off than a nova.
good luck! i did my paintjob with pretty cheap paint and it looked good for about a half year, now i gotta repaint it so i dont recommend it.
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 07-13-2006, 05:53 PM
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low cost paint

My son was taking a body class at the college. One of the paint shops in town got raided by the fire dept. too much flamable stuff stored outside of the fire proof cabinets so they took all the extra stuff and gave it to the students. He gave me 2 gallons of color. but all the other stuff i needed to paint a 84 Capri cost $600. I painted my 48 Jeepster with premixed off the shelf Cat yellow. almost the same color as the original. total cost was $100.
the paint held up well and still looks good after 20 years outside. I painted my 1922 ford racer with L A Calif approver red fire hydrant paint. very durable and the color doesn't fade. The paint was free. they used to get 5 gallon cans and stick in the suction tube to repaint and at the end of the day what was left over was left to dry. in the can, I just broke the skin and strained it into a new container with no air space.
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 07-13-2006, 09:31 PM
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I would like to add this, I know that there's an old saying "you get what you pay for" but it doesn't always apply to everything. I painted my 39 pontiac (the one in my avatar)in 1990 with Limco supreme (cheap bc/cc) and it has held up amazingly well, better than I ever expected, in fact I've thought of changing the color, but the paints too nice. Personally, I can see no reason why paint should cost $1000 or more. It's PAINT for Gods sake, I know it may be good, but I can buy tractor paint for $20 a gal. The expensive stuff may be a LITTLE better than the cheaper stuff, but I just don't see any justification for that much of a price difference. In my opinion, even the cheaper stuff is too expensive, but then, I'm no chemist. JMHO Sorry to get off topic.
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