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  #151 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2018, 01:20 PM
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j

How cool is that!

Did you find you still have stretched metal to deal with or did it come back into pretty good shape?

John

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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2018, 01:27 PM
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Literally not much to show today. Stall looks like a bomb went off though.









Screwed up my back Monday and yesterday a little each. Its talking to me this afternoon.


WOW!

Brian
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2018, 08:41 PM
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WOW!

Brian
I trust you have feelers out for this kinda gig around Boise. Reckon you'd be smart to stay in the bucks for the next five years but imagine the fun you'd have doing customs all day. Maybe once SS kicks in, you can. On yours.

We all have genuine and deep rooted car or truck love, and we enjoy ourselves.

Did get a pic of the frame horn stuff but didn't upload because I saw up-handed welds. I'll put it up if you guys tell me what you think about vertical beads. Reckon its not a bridge but that might not concur with textbooks. I'll stand judgement on stuff I do but y'know...
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2018, 09:05 PM
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DAMN !! That looks 100% better...you pulled off a major save on that roof.
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  #155 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2018, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
j

How cool is that!

Did you find you still have stretched metal to deal with or did it come back into pretty good shape?

John
I was so tickled you coulda knocked me over with a feather. Not that you'd tickle me hard enough with a feather to knock me down... or at all, if thats even possible, please... oh I've just talked myself into a corner again, haven't I? Well I was happy that the wheel happens to be the right height that I can set the quarter down to rest and examine progress. Its all really just practice for the upcoming side skin fab attempt. Can't wait to apply some pinch and actually shape something but this stuff is still just straightening with little or no tension on the adjuster. Today I had a mind, briefly (ha ha), to make a stand-in substitute for the ribbed roof insert. But I stayed the course and got by with a scrap sheet of 16 gauge.

Speaking only of stretching present from prior damage, plus that which I may have inadvertently caused with the wheel during straightening... really not bad, to answer your question. Much of the necessary lengthwise crown was mashed put of the panel, so naturally it is now way too wide at the front. I feel like no issues will be encountered at any of the seams up top, because whats expected of me here is to remove all flanges and butt weld the whole dome. Then chop it, etc. Everything up top can just float and overlap with flanges chopped off, so that eliminates MUCH worry about the panels having grown in size due to stretching.

So, as much as I can incorporate contour repairs with the chop, I will. For example, there will be a point during the chop when just the roof side and side window section will be separate-able and could come off to wheel more. And hey then I could really wheel the lower quarters as needed, too, with rust patches done. See? Theres many tasks to consider and combine for best results, but imagine removing the quarter once its chopped and tacked, to finish most of the chop seam off the car. Or at least to dress some. Its secretly a blast for me figuring out the best way given these optimal circumstances. I ponder on it as I do the task at hand, and while I drive junk.

Here are a couple of things that are holding the body parts in place at this point, the roof insert place holder, clamped, and an adjustable cross member at the bottom front corner of the side windows. Body is screwed back to the jig at trunk gutters currently, but tails of the quarters are long now. Meh, I just kinda got it pinned back up there and slid the floor in. Now I can do some alignment of reference points and find what unseen issues exist.





First example: After slicing the weld on the right roof side and straightening it somewhat, it sticks way out at the front tip. You gotta shove to get it in behind this little retainer here-



So, if I can get all Perry Mason for a sec... the smashing of the rear of the roof pancaked the front, flanged edge of the rear window panel, pushing the right quarter out and creating a right roof side kink that was cut then welded. Probably just enough to keep the door from hitting the running board when opened?

All the necessary crown at the leading edge of the rear window panel, she is smasha flat. When restoring that, I may be able to achieve a correct front width of the panel but the T strip area is to be shaved. In theory, I could cut off all flanges and screw strips behind them during the work process and let all the edges float that way. I could then block up the roof insert squarely as desired after chopping and simply push the adjacent panels up to meet it. However, the lesson I took from the 33 with Camaro roof in that scenario was that I want the fill panel installed from below.

Meaning it's edges support the adjacent overlapping flanges until the seam is tacked and trimmed. To counter gravity's unfortunate effect on warpage if the fill panel is installed from the top. Screwed, layered strips rather than initial tacks while trimming an overlapped fill panel seems like it might be the high road there, too. Fortunately, there will be a way to get the fill panel inside the car for this, since it is so in pieces.
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  #156 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2018, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
DAMN !! That looks 100% better...you pulled off a major save on that roof.
It was quite a workout and I may have created a few new dance moves with the quarters especially, but to me the important thing is the wheel practice. That blamed Lazze guy makes it look so easy. But this straightening with the wheel is a mind blower dude. A godsend for a man with a clapped out wrist. Wow is what I say, too. You gotta know it about kilt me to forget a pic of that last week. Being the Show and Teller that I am.

So far, straightening on the wheel puts me in a good mood. Cranking down the knob is another matter entirely! But I am ending up in the ditch less so to speak, with the wheel steering. Not unlike backing a trailer which is a stamp I never earned for my man card. I'll stand for judgement on that, but I just never had an opportunity to practice with nobody looking. So its a wonder I haven't visibly botched this yet. Just going for my honorary junior english wheel merit badge here, and if theres no soft serve afterwards, forget it!
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2018, 10:12 PM
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Thanks for piping up guys. That was the last slide. John if you'll turn the lights back on, we'll all kill whats left of the punch and catch y'all on the flipside. Somebody wake Pugsy up. Drive safe.
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2018, 02:47 AM
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I hope I don't get too big for my britches here.

One of the things you can do with the E-wheel is add the crown back into a pancaked panel using the same technique you would use if you were making an A model hood with the wheel instead of using a slip roll.

Place the panel cross ways in the wheel with no pressure and with a very low crown anvil. As you draw the panel out gently push the leading edge down. Repeat all along the panel repeatedly until you have restored the crown accross the panel. That, of course would be much easier if the roof section was apart and you weren't trying to manipulate a 5 foot square piece of floppy roof.

Here are a couple of pictures of me adding the roll on the bottom of the rear quarter for the '53. At this point there is no pressure on the wheels so the panel is not growing, just bending.



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  #159 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2018, 04:47 AM
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Literally not much to show today. Stall looks like a bomb went off though.









Screwed up my back Monday and yesterday a little each. Its talking to me this afternoon.
That's a little bit dismantled. lol
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  #160 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2018, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Thanks for piping up guys. That was the last slide. John if you'll turn the lights back on, we'll all kill whats left of the punch and catch y'all on the flipside. Somebody wake Pugsy up. Drive safe.

I'm awake....just pondering how much pressure you're using to do your thing. You should almost be able to slide the panel around so you don't stretch it too much. Too much crown and you're screwed. You would then need to stretch the edges only to take out the access crown.


And no driving here....
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2018, 06:31 AM
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I'm awake....just pondering how much pressure you're using to do your thing. You should almost be able to slide the panel around so you don't stretch it too much. Too much crown and you're screwed. You would then need to stretch the edges only to take out the access crown.


And no driving here....
No driving?

How much pressure? Well yes I am talking slides around loose but I am straightning. Theres air between the wheels but also dents. I tried hard to avoid additional stretching but some happens, of course. As far as I know, theres no way for me to quantify how much pressure I am using. Our cheapo unit sucks, it won't keep the anvil centered and the quick release lever just spins so it is virtually impossible to do nice stuff with. Not so much an excuse there as just a relevant fact. But its what I have. What are you seeing that causes you to wonder?

Have you read where I explained about removing flanges from window panel and quarters? I could stretch the areas in question horribly and it would only mean added excess material to trim away before the butt weld.
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2018, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by John long View Post
I hope I don't get too big for my britches here.

One of the things you can do with the E-wheel is add the crown back into a pancaked panel using the same technique you would use if you were making an A model hood with the wheel instead of using a slip roll.

Place the panel cross ways in the wheel with no pressure and with a very low crown anvil. As you draw the panel out gently push the leading edge down. Repeat all along the panel repeatedly until you have restored the crown accross the panel. That, of course would be much easier if the roof section was apart and you weren't trying to manipulate a 5 foot square piece of floppy roof.

Here are a couple of pictures of me adding the roll on the bottom of the rear quarter for the '53. At this point there is no pressure on the wheels so the panel is not growing, just bending.



Understood. I used this technique on the window panel but theres not room on the roof side. The crown I mentioned restoring is not straight across, its humped in the middle so its not slip roller material but there is one of those on hand. That is, it should be but I have no reference for how much and thats why I would like to have the roof insert panel on hand as a reference. I assume that even if I do restore the correct curve, the front of the panel would still be too wide but not completely as a result of my fixing, but from the initial damage. Thats why I explained about removing flanges. Stretching just almost doesn't matter because I am doing it that way.

In my pic of the two anvils, the one on the left was used longways across the panel and the flatter one on the right is what I used for what you are describing, and mainly just above the window. No pressure on the wheel but I may not be holding it perfectly level. Thats what I am practicing, just guiding the wheel without a lot of unintentional blunders. I certainly appreciate your guidance and pics. What I am obviously not grasping is why I get comments about using too much pressure so I'll ask you too: What are you seeing that indicates I have adjusted the wheels too tightly? Or are you? Thanks.
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2018, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Hipster_G View Post
That's a little bit dismantled. lol
And mostly just using a house painter's baseboard tool. Man these cars are built like old houses. There was just no reason to not blow it all apart. I cringe thinking of how weak pillars on chops done with the car all together must be. Every chance I get, I will beef up this body. That engine in this chassis is a recipie for squirrely. Which is better than a deathtrap stocker on crash-and-live factor but still... I think I can stiffen up the body a little during my process and it will be less like driving a metal tool shed.
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2018, 08:48 AM
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I don't know that you are using too much pressure. If you are bending the metal or taking the lumps out of it then you want to use no pressure to speak of. If you use pressure, you will displace metal and grow the panel creating shape or form.

It seems to me you have a pretty good grasp of what you are doing. The biggest challenge for me is a low crown panel like a door skin. The bigger, the more challenging. I will be watching intently to see how your side skin works out.

Keep on keeping on and we will be in the bleachers cheering!

John
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2018, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
No driving?

How much pressure? Well yes I am talking slides around loose but I am straightning. Theres air between the wheels but also dents. I tried hard to avoid additional stretching but some happens, of course. As far as I know, theres no way for me to quantify how much pressure I am using. Our cheapo unit sucks, it won't keep the anvil centered and the quick release lever just spins so it is virtually impossible to do nice stuff with. Not so much an excuse there as just a relevant fact. But its what I have. What are you seeing that causes you to wonder?

Have you read where I explained about removing flanges from window panel and quarters? I could stretch the areas in question horribly and it would only mean added excess material to trim away before the butt weld.

I'm seeing nothing. Just advising, seeing as you're a newb.


Actually, I just realized, I'm not seeing a mirror polished panel after your wheeling, so that's good. If it was mirror glossy, that would indicate a lot of squeeze. so, double...
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