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  #1666 (permalink)  
Old 08-12-2019, 08:19 PM
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This side is in place, ready to mount rear fender to double check. End of day shot, first up.



This is inside the right apron, from rear looking forward. Since I see no reason to have the apron sandwiched between body and frame, I scored it on the inside and folded it down. Probably will cut that off later. Makes it where now I don't have to fuss over aligning every body bolt hole in the apron. I plan to attach the aprons from underneath, perhaps with a similar reinforcing flap like the rear fenders are attached with. To the floor rails. The reason the pic is this way is because I left the front 4"" of that folded flange straight, where it shows, because the front body bolt can easily still pass through the apron and serves as an additional position assurance.



Near the center of this pic, standing by RF tire looking down, you can see the head of a drift which is in a hole which I found to be a valid alignment point that matches on frame and fender. Excellent. My prior work is holding true to my satisfaction, this was a sign of that because things fit now. The center front blue rag lunch pic piece just doesn't fit as-is with a deuce shell on it. Will reapproach with both fenders on, and go from there.



An inside view of the LF fender brace notching, which requires reinforcement-



Same view, right side of car, showing initial brace notch reinf tacked. I need to shave it down a wee bit more so it doesn't push out on the fender.



Just a usual "scene of the crime" shot. I am pleased with how it is going and that I am learning about prewar body construction style. It can be the new feather in my cap, so to speak.


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  #1667 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2019, 12:24 PM
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Cut line worked just right on the first apron so this one is about to get a whack job-





I am bearing down on it and just about have it looking like something!

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  #1668 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2019, 06:58 PM
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  #1669 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2019, 07:37 PM
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Those rear tires should make a lot of smoke,,,mabe try some knotty pine,
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  #1670 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2019, 08:53 PM
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Those are poor old Kaw-Liga brand.
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  #1671 (permalink)  
Old 08-13-2019, 09:08 PM
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On the left apron inner edge, I scored then folded it all the way over and flattened it and put a row of 1/4" holes 4" apart. Did not drill the floor rail though.

Per boss suggestion I need to search for how other people get fenders to work with no headlight bar. Anybody know? He was looking at one that connects at top of frame rail through fender which offers no support but would keep wires out of the grille shell. Likes the motorcycle headlights on that green and white '31 from years back.
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Old 08-14-2019, 07:41 AM
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Repeating request for any knowledge relevant to using fenders with no headlight bar. All I have found is one guy gusseted one side of fender braces. I don't believe thats enough. I do believe I am asking the wrong people and that I will have to improvise. All the forum effort is getting me nothing I need. Pointless to continue, seriously. But I probably will.
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Old 08-14-2019, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Repeating request for any knowledge relevant to using fenders with no headlight bar. All I have found is one guy gusseted one side of fender braces. I don't believe thats enough. I do believe I am asking the wrong people and that I will have to improvise. All the forum effort is getting me nothing I need. Pointless to continue, seriously. But I probably will.

No idea, however, if it's being supported by the fender brace below, that needs to be solid as a rock.


I'd be thinking a solid bar instead of a channel.
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  #1674 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2019, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
No idea, however, if it's being supported by the fender brace below, that needs to be solid as a rock.


I'd be thinking a solid bar instead of a channel.
Yep. Got nothing to build anything with. Stared at it for a few.

I cleaned up the firewall and put it back in then trimmed the driver door where it had apron interference. Boss ordered smooth running boards.
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Old 08-14-2019, 08:40 PM
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My fender brace design flew through the Mike filter. Related running board support design discarded. This too-tall cardboard strip represents tubing (thinner wall than pictured but same size) of the front leg which will link to another one behind the suspension, etc. A bolt-on two piece bracket is the plan.



This shows how the salvage engine is too far forward-



This shows collision damage in yellow pencil at four places which Mike hadn't noticed. He is greatly concerned about internal engine damage.



Passenger door to apron gap-



Driver's door to apron gap after trimming for function and silver paint marking for final trim / weld-



My preparations for gas flap discussion-



Mock up of drip rail tuck for approval-



Door, trunk, and maybe hood weatherstrip-



Sample, A pillar-



Sample, trunk-



Booth peek-



Mike's Cat box play area-

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  #1676 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2019, 12:56 PM
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This is more like it. Starting to feel more jovial. Trusty red "Grand Prix" at arm's reach, nabbed a fan from a younger person to fade the warm and guide the dust away, tubing at my left hand and cleaned, A up and ready...



...and a good helper to occasionally greet with a pat or two-



Ah. The Pandora station is rockin, too. I am set.

This extra support from the Cat's hourglass chassis has just what I need for fender brace bottom mount plates-



So here are befores-





Them boys on the other endo the building are packed in like sardines. I guess senority buys me elbow room. Boy, am I glad!
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  #1677 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2019, 01:29 PM
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Engine damage...if the water pump turns freely, I would jumper cable a battery to the starter and see if the engine turns over freely also. If so, and no funny noises, I wouldn't worry about it. The 396 in my '70 SS came out of a pickup that took a brutal head on hit. The water pump impeller was jammed into the housing and the lower pulley on the crank was folded nearly to the pan. I replaced both pieces and it runs just fine. The only unknown with these situations is if the main shaft thrust bearing was hit hard enough to cause excessive end play. That can be checked by prying the flex plate back and forth, using a dial indicator on the front balancer to measure the travel.

Fuel filler door. I know you have to work with the pre-shape of the Hagan unit, but it would simplify filling if the hinge was at the trunk lid side, getting the door out of the way of the nozzle/hose...just a thought.

Fender brace for headlight. Would it be possible to shape a piece of bar stock to fit inside the existing channel to reinforce it ? Be a challenge to get 3/16-1/4 bar to form exactly to that brace, but I believe it would be plenty strong to support the light. Your lower brace, at the cut, could be longer and narrower, to fit inside the channel and tie into the bar stock to form a continuous reinforcement to the frame. If the headlight, itself, didn't attach to part of that brace, you could form a backing plate for under the fender on the e-wheel, for strength.
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  #1678 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2019, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Engine damage...if the water pump turns freely, I would jumper cable a battery to the starter and see if the engine turns over freely also. If so, and no funny noises, I wouldn't worry about it. The 396 in my '70 SS came out of a pickup that took a brutal head on hit. The water pump impeller was jammed into the housing and the lower pulley on the crank was folded nearly to the pan. I replaced both pieces and it runs just fine. The only unknown with these situations is if the main shaft thrust bearing was hit hard enough to cause excessive end play. That can be checked by prying the flex plate back and forth, using a dial indicator on the front balancer to measure the travel.

Fuel filler door. I know you have to work with the pre-shape of the Hagan unit, but it would simplify filling if the hinge was at the trunk lid side, getting the door out of the way of the nozzle/hose...just a thought.

Fender brace for headlight. Would it be possible to shape a piece of bar stock to fit inside the existing channel to reinforce it ? Be a challenge to get 3/16-1/4 bar to form exactly to that brace, but I believe it would be plenty strong to support the light. Your lower brace, at the cut, could be longer and narrower, to fit inside the channel and tie into the bar stock to form a continuous reinforcement to the frame. If the headlight, itself, didn't attach to part of that brace, you could form a backing plate for under the fender on the e-wheel, for strength.
I nodded my head at most of that.

Paragraph #1: Only two things- A Coyote and rat are two different animals. Now, IDJ fill in the blank trivia question... I have done classics and customs for a full decade now, but in the ten years before, I did ____________.

Its just belt and shroud smeared on the crank one, no gouges. Pump spins.

Paragraph #2: Maybe, but I am sticking to my guns for now. Watch and wait. That is a very 3D doodad challenge but I believe the position chosen will keep the lid out of harm's way by hugging the roof. "Easy" enough to reconfigure if not. I selected the left opening teardrop after a brief analysis of the situation. Trunk should be able to open while getting gas.

Paragraph #3: Not going to be the stealth version. Gimmie an A!



Its a rough draft with only 2-3 hours in it. I got distracted, read on.



I'm no Pugsy. Tubing and me don't always agree but this was fun.





This morning before tubing I went around putting little 2" long weatherstrip chunx around trunk and door jambs then adjusting doors a bit for that bank vault closing effect all around. Made little wire pulls for the door latches. Trunk works lovely. After lunch I went to toss in the tank walls and zip bolts in. That didn't quite go like that. Rear wall needs a trim at the new left tub work and I will probably enlarge all the bolt holes one step on the bit to ease installation. So I got back on the task at hand.



Endo the day,







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  #1679 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2019, 05:51 PM
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Things I did today are kinda tough to spot. Flattening poky-outy places, improving fit and clearance, etc. It is bolted to the shock mount area now and I'm ready to make a front mount plate and tie on the upper section of the old brace. We did a rough eyeball holding a tire in there and it looks to clear by a mile.



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Old 08-17-2019, 01:59 PM
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I wish i could afford to have an A Model built similar to this I have always liked them,,i had on a long time ago and sold it,,( mistake ),, the 2 I am simi workin on now just on and off as i feel like it .will be the last 2 I build,,when they are finished I will just drive and enjoy them,, i still go to local shows but wont be entering either in shows

this is my ole A model,, I put a mustang suepension and a <ustang SVO 4 cyl turbo in it had it runnin but newer got to drive it before I sold it,,i did get to drive it a couple years later.
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