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  #1726 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2019, 04:01 AM
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Looking good as usual. The shape of the gas door looks just right.

Here's another method for doing the same thing, bending the tubes (or other situations):




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  #1727 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2019, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Looking good as usual. The shape of the gas door looks just right.

Here's another method for doing the same thing, bending the tubes (or other situations):




Be still, my heart! Someone hath made me a sketch. Thanks, Pugsy.

I thought of doing it another way (aside from the usual method) briefly but decided speed trumped perfectly rounded bends for this part.

Would the side pieces be cut from an additional section of tubing? I am not sure they could be one piece as shown in sketch. Maybe.

It was tempting to just have one sharp corner. But I tried hard to make a good pattern for this so I could repeat it and ... this is a first... once cuts were made, I bent it until the cuts were closed, let go, and it was exactly right. The bend. First shot. That never happened before.

The braces I make won't fool anyone about not being made in a bender but they are not terribly knobby outside the bend.
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  #1728 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2019, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk View Post
Be still, my heart! Someone hath made me a sketch. Thanks, Pugsy.

I thought of doing it another way (aside from the usual method) briefly but decided speed trumped perfectly rounded bends for this part.

Would the side pieces be cut from an additional section of tubing? I am not sure they could be one piece as shown in sketch. Maybe.

It was tempting to just have one sharp corner. But I tried hard to make a good pattern for this so I could repeat it and ... this is a first... once cuts were made, I bent it until the cuts were closed, let go, and it was exactly right. The bend. First shot. That never happened before.

The braces I make won't fool anyone about not being made in a bender but they are not terribly knobby outside the bend.

Pieces can be cut from sheet stock, doesn't matter.
Just throwing it out for when you come upon a project where you need a LOT of cuts. This method would be quicker, less welding and shrinkage which changes the angle. This way, the angle will change also, but maybe not as much. Carry on.....
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  #1729 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2019, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
Pieces can be cut from sheet stock, doesn't matter.
Just throwing it out for when you come upon a project where you need a LOT of cuts. This method would be quicker, less welding and shrinkage which changes the angle. This way, the angle will change also, but maybe not as much. Carry on.....
I may just keep looking rather than purchase this... metric math must be messing with me... The curve is 6" long on the outside, 4.5" on the inside. Given that, your way requires over two feet of weld. Mine needs 17.5" regardless of curve size.

We need a third party to debunk this. If I had some 14 ga sheet, that might be different. Looking at the sketch, I see no reason why a guy couldn't just cut the short sides off the tubing and eliminate some weld by also bending the inside face. Then filling in the sides.

As usual, just going where it leads when I have no direction-



Not sure if other humans will be able to see whats going on in this pic. The down flange where board edge fits into apron edge groove is below the board mounting surface. That flange is not tall enough to hide any notching, IMO. Not enough, anyway... to keep the question mark bracket shape away by doing that. The green biscuits are used up 3M 1991s used as spacers. It can never be simple.

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  #1730 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2019, 05:28 PM
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#2 and 3 are on the way. #2 has pattern transfer mistakes on it. The same bracket works at all four corners but each will probably need individual attention for exact fit. Once all four are tacked and bolted, theres going to be another adventure in getting the boards' top faces to sit level as well.

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  #1731 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2019, 11:48 AM
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  #1732 (permalink)  
Old 09-11-2019, 05:36 PM
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  #1733 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2019, 11:16 AM
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I know I said I would fit these when tacked. Notice the top ends are still just that. I reconsidered and found that having the arms all match as close as possible was my best bet. If they don't want to fit right as-is, I will try to contain adjustments to the area where the top flange connects to the arm. We shall see how that works out real soon.

These are all welded except that, and are rough ground-

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  #1734 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2019, 05:13 PM
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Looks like the front one falls short a tad. Might be the bracket or the panels causing that. I will probably swap them around to find which fits which corner best before making board bolt holes, and I'll need to finish folding over the top edge of the right apron to get top bolts in that side. But I am satisfied with them overall, looks to fit about like I expected.
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  #1735 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2019, 07:37 PM
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Checked the boards with a level and the left rear corner was the only one level. But that corner is a known trouble spot. Other three corners, shimming the outside end of my little level with the edge of a roll of quarter inch tape centered the bubble and matched exactly. Since I think the boards should slope down just a tiny bit, I am calling that only one corner to correct. On the sheetmetal.

On the front brackets, I lengthened each by 2" and twisted one top mount plus removed a half inch there. Rears just needed a top twist on one side. Not too terrible, they fit now-

Left side-



Right side-



I have a rough mental plan to put nuts on the front of the brackets and attach the boards with angled strips plug welded to the front edge flange of the existing running board mount area support channels. Those have keyholes for down facing carriage bolts. My plan has the bolts going horizontally, pointing rearward and with adjustment slop.
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  #1736 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2019, 03:06 PM
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I know I made flats on the brackets for the carriage bolt attachment method but with all the stacked approximateness of all things involved... like the mount channels not being necessarily square to the board and such... this is my current thought in visual form. The note about a pad is an afterthought but my intent is to drill holes in the front of the brackets and weld nuts in there flush. I think this will be easier than carriage bolts and have a couple advantages but am open to suggestions.



This was last night- Power to the Pontiacs!

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  #1737 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2019, 05:23 PM
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......................


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  #1738 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2019, 06:17 PM
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Thats stronger, and I did think about through bolts along the way. I could be wrong, but I don't think my flimsier design will fall short on strength because theres just not much need for that, there. With boards bolted to fenders, they don't move much and if nobody needs to ride out there with a Tommy gun... meh... probably enough.

My other thought is that no pebble grabbing gap over the bracket is present on the leading side in my sketch, and that the cup design would be less tolerant of small fore/aft and or twist discrepancies between bracket and board.

You know the step plate on top of one back fender of a rumble seat car? Like this had. Round, cast silver metal with ribbed top face. I was studying on having those as exit steps and having them set up where they look sunk into the board and are about half as tall, but invisibly pass through the board and are supported by the bracket only so no weight goes on the skin when you step there. That was just a thought, and an automatic trans car's brake pedal pad could be done the same way. Either yells step here only please.

Howzat grab ya?
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Old 09-16-2019, 11:30 AM
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I showed Mike three ways to go about this and his main concern was speed. I downgraded in the interest of that by putting nuts on top of the bracket instead (to be welded better when apart). Angle pieces are made and marked for drilling and outside corner trimming, nuts are in place.





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  #1740 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2019, 06:29 PM
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Had the right front bracket off to finish welding in the 2" extension so I welded the nuts a little better and closed the end with 18 ga. while it was out. The rear brackets' top mounts are still just tacked.



I could certainly put some cute wee li'l gussets on those nuts but probably no need.

Heres the one closed end, which I did not get a pic of showing the end with it installed-





This is me, on top of...



... this, the driver's side front bracket-



Felt sturdy as any, to me. Here are the rest. Threw the bay door open for passenger side pix.





Yes there are plug weld holes on the top flanges. This makes 3 layers along the front of the mount channel.



I got a little start toward splitting each drip rail down the middle for the tuck. Marked em, anyway.
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