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  #1741 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2019, 12:02 PM
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Drip rail tuck starts with a cardboard pattern which fits both sides (see right side of cardboard). Holding the template straight out flat from the drip rail indent in the roof. Rails came with the down bend at rear already done.



Scoring the floppy little buggers then cutting was touchy, trying to keep it right down the middle.



This is what I am doing here, slicing, overlapping, tax. Rails will eventually be attached via plug welds in holes in the roof sides (quarters).



The quarter inch nut on the tape is the spacer used inside the rail at clamp spots, and serves as a gauge by sliding along, inside the length of the rail. I just have a few tacks holding the pieces together, checking the shape created by splitting the rail then baby tapping the halves with jaws ever so lightly. Tapping with weight of handle was plenty. Stretcher on the inside half, shrinker on the outside one until both matched the template.



These will look less clunky than stockers, sticking out less. Seam sealer will hide any evil underneath them. Of course, they won't be pulled tight to the body until screwed on for welding. I thought about trimming the inner half at the white line and scooting the rail to the very top of the indent but not doing that will look better by filling out the indent more fully.





That looks good to go, to me at this point. Wasn't too tough, didn't know what to expect exactly so


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  #1742 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2019, 05:49 PM
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Could not resist screwing.



Its tucked under the visor up front. I beveled the leading edge.







Passenger side only lacks grinding, and it also fits. That was a snap!



That about wraps up the part before disassembly to finish and fuss over the structure and parts and get epoxy on all before putting it all back nice for keeps and doing the roof insert.

Speaking of roof insert... Stand by for bonus rod pix.
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  #1743 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2019, 06:13 PM
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Guy at work says the red 33 is out front so I grabs my phone next chance I gets and I moseys out the front door. Boy am I glad nobody was around to see my jaw drop.

As the unintelligible gigglesmirkyness began to subside, and I ain't kidding I was giddy like a dog with separation anxiety... my Grandpas and Dad came to mind and right then got something in my eye for a sec but then I went back to work with a full charge in my batteries. Caught me a big enjoy off seeing this and in full sun, no less. Actually did have to get metal taken out of my eye way back when I worked this job three rustbuckets ago. Memories, hah!





It needs a couple touch up before the local show this weekend. Bike rally here.



Ain't she just some kinda mess?



Not responsible for retina damage, boys.

Roof looks like it turned out.





Deep breath. Ah, yep that was good stuff.

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  #1744 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2019, 11:22 AM
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Right rail is up there now, too





Asked Mike if he wanted any of this in tubing. Just the vertical, he says.



Doing those-

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  #1745 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2019, 07:13 AM
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Left phone at shop yesterday, thats why the feed stoppage like a stovepiped .45 auto. I got those tacked in, made a panel to connect cowl top and firewall and am fussing over gas neck pocket now. Will resume fire at lunch.
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  #1746 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2019, 11:26 AM
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This angled strip goes 3" forward of the firewall and sits under the seal bed at front of cowl-



Fuel filler neck pocket (and a bracket) took a couple hours to work out in posterboard without being too fussy over it. Metal origami, anyone?



Setting up the latch may be another matter entirely.

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  #1747 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2019, 05:50 PM
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It is coming along OK, only had to split it open on one corner after cut/fold/weld/try. I made the pattern from inside, never looking in the trunk so thats where that is. The edge that runs under the trunk bead was crooked. All the edges are bend to match but I had a decent time of it thus far.

The idea here is to create not only a pocket for latch, hinge,and neck mounting. The perimeter where pocket meets quarter is intended to be a seam sealer bed, leaving an even and tightish fit against the backside of the outer panel. So the pocket and lid are an appendage of the inner structure. As an ant crawls, its a long way to a pocket mount point if you start at the flap. In other words.

End of day-



I put it out where you can see it. Cut that hole with a cutoff wheel only.



The latch and flap are off but the temporary bracket is all still there. Neck angle looks OK but is flexible. It is sitting all the way down in the pocket, not attached. My hinge hole is in position but the holes will be higher than those guesses you see.





Here is the view I've been showing. From driver's seat but with head on backwards.



Moving the view straight down to show the 3 temporary pieces. In the above pic you also see a bracket intended to go on top of the tubing there. Or under. Whichever way but loose.

Never mind the sweat rust. I try to keep it at bay.



Below, you are perched atop the left wheel tub looking forward. I am contemplating whether to use a hose for the pocket drain, or hard line it to the floor. Meh, another day. I have already stopped myself twice now from taking the driver's door off and shucking the quarter. Should get down to that business next week so it will be even less fun to look at. For a spell, but just you wait.

This has a ways to go. Still focused on the front and a bracket or three.

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  #1748 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2019, 02:23 PM
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Only snapped one pic Friday, this is a real nitty gritty part that nobody needs to get dragged through the whole thought process on but suffice it to say this will be done when its done. I tossed the pieces on the bench and got a pic at end of day with a tad of unrelated disgust. Among corroding situations in personal life and due frustrations with this task being crazy access and contours... found out I may be back on the Pantera. Car and tech have reached a stalemate on it, it seems.

I am comfortable with that but quitting time came at a very poor time with lots of little fit adjustments in process on this. I tried to leave myself clues where to pick up when I get back to it but I do hate doing that. Breaks my stride, what stride there is. But I am spoiled in that respect.

Heres the picture. I got the pocket fitting more closely all around and reached a point where new pocket attaches to mock up bracket as the hinge would. Guesses were misses until the third try on getting hinge mount holes in the pocket that jive with the ones in the mock up bracket. I was way off but within range. Got that though. Man them screws are tiny!



That being done, pocket was in position. Went around moving edges in relation to the quarter and looking to screw it in with a bracket. I figure if I establish two mounting points with new brackets, I can remove the mock up bracket and get down to business.

Thats where I am at, ready to remove mock up bracket and screw the hinge and lid on instead. Hinge position marked, trimming of pocket required. The bracket I made with the pocket will end up being temporary because the pocket ends up against the tubing and that bracket will be replaced by the corner filler piece which completes the tank area to cabin bulkhead. And it provides one weld spot for the pocket, as does the tubing. In the trunk, next door to the trunk hinge pocket I put one tab off the trunk jamb and thats as far as I got. One more significant bracket should do. Setting up the magnetic latch hopefully won't be a starting over level of adventure, but I anticipate bumps in that road.

Its all just road, though. I'm down. One of these years I gotta take some time off though. These long haul jobs just consume your everything and then poof, theres another summer of prime life gone and another job waiting. Just in case any of you were raised by a TV kinda like me... that whole thing where bosses walk up and say hey, this would be a good time for you to have a break. Why don't you take some time off? ... yeah, that never happens. Not in this century. I a guy can get time off, it will only be when he and his car are broke.
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  #1749 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2019, 04:03 PM
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Woops, left something out I been making a stink about...

Boss suggested for the hood seal a larger version of the fairly wimpy small D shaped perimeter seal on doors and trunk. Probably because it will just look more natural than the wimpy kind being more similar to the stock type in size but in keeping with the clean look. I told him to let me know when he lands on something in particular.

So there was movement on that stopping point. At this point, I won't ask again if building a cowl sides and grille shell hood seal that are featureless, to be used without hood sides only, is what we want to do. I will go with the assumption that like stock, the hood seal goes all the way down the sides.

Theres that.
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  #1750 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2019, 05:55 PM
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Woops Didn't mean to post here
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  #1751 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2019, 05:27 AM
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This is just me wanting to see if duolamps could work up front. With big headlights I think it might look OK but they want to use these smaller bike headlights. Didn't like where this was headed so didn't chase it far.



This is the previous rendering brightened a little because it was too dark but also I have removed the big headlights and am showing an approximation of the "Mustang" hood side variant-

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  #1752 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2019, 11:46 AM
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Mock up bracket is outta there, and I had to make the rear brace now because the only point of connection I had... had to be cut out for the magnetic plunger that holds the lid shut. Lid fit is not terribly far off, but of course it sits different and requires adjustment.



The lid magnet thing ends up about here, shoved as far into that corner as possible. I cut the mounting area out of the new new pocket and it will become that corner of the pocket wall.



Here, you can see the mount piece tucked behind the plastic-



Again, here you can see the nuts holding the magnet peeking through the corner where I had split it to fit it.

Hit it where the good Lord split it, and quit it.

That was random advice on dealing with women. You can also see the bracket I just made. Its permanent.



Heres that temporary topside bracket again-



Temporary because see how the other side is? This one will be similar but with weld locations for the pocket.

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  #1753 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2019, 05:49 PM
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This is how far it can pop up after you press down to open-



This is how far it pops up right now-



That might work. If not, more work. At least now the whole mess goes in and out with three screws as an assembly.



I have this ugly corner untacked at the bottom trying to swing it to the sweet angle-



I may have to re-aim the hinge mount at the latch more, so the pop up feature works better. What happens is the magnet drags if the lid doesn't move straight up. It side loads the plunger producing an unenthusiastic popup. That hinge is in the one spot where I found it to work, though. Frankly, the whole setup seems kinda limpwristed to me, and I vote Morse cable and spring loaded run of the mill setup. This is the least secure configuration for gas theft. Not like thats a thing though.

Before we're done, look at the last pic again. See the rounded Y shaped piece tacked inside the rear tip of the lid? Thats a latch guide. Very important part of the setup. And I gotta tell ya, all the adjustments that can be made to this gas hole thing are uber sensitive. Doing anything changes the gap, and the hardware is all things so tiny I can barely pick any of it up with fingers. However, it is not a Pantera. So
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  #1754 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2019, 12:05 PM
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Well, now I don't know what to do. I've repositioned the hinge to my heart's content and the IDJ of another day wasn't lying... the hinge can only be in one very specific place.

Kinda figured that but had to be sure. Heres why I don't know what to do, just the facts:

Never touched a magnetic latch before so I don't know if they are expected to pop up all the way on the plunger or if some don't, or if barely popping up is acceptable. Its easier to operate if you treat the magnet as stationary. If a brand new whole setup done perfectly pops the plunger all the way, I would be suprised because the plunger and spring are not strong enough for use with the magnet provided.

Best I can figure, none of these pop up all the way and what I had yesterday or what I have now is the best its going to get. IF they want to stick with the magnet latch.

These pics don't show progress, they only prove what I have said. I could start moving the latch around again but no matter what, it will never pop up farther than an eighth or quarter inch. Then when you pull the flap off the magnet, it feels like something was hung up. But it isn't.

This is probably all due to the combination of car shape and hole shape, but as you can see here, you can move the hinge clockwise in the hole and clock it different until lid hits roof and or arm hits hole, and never make the plunger's job easy enough with that magnet. Layering tape over magnet and lid has little effect. So I will probably put it back like it was a half day ago and say thats as good as I can make it.



Tough to see a difference between that and the last pic like it. But thats absolutely as far as it can go left. The pic below shows the limiting factor. Plenty of room there in yesterday's position. Don't think it isn't draining my patience, it is. But I have gotten used to these monumental effort for nothing using gimmicky crap ordeals before and theres no point in explaining until all imaginable diligence has been exhausted. Thats where I am at.

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  #1755 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2019, 03:07 PM
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My stereo cabinet latch......










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